Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
EBDisco 3 wrote:
What’s the best method of manually starting the FBH to test it?
First question is: How do you know it never started? (according to manual the working is "transparent" to the user - That said, if it is working correctly you should not notice it at all.)
Second question: Do you have a diag tool to check it? (if not, it will be a bit of a gamble to know what is going on)
First things first: use a diag tool to see what is going on. A quick check is (at below 5 degrees Celsius), open the bonnet > turn the ignition key > turn OFF the vent/AC in the cabin > turn ON the ignition > after some seconds turn the vent/heating ON in the cabin. Can you hear your FBH fan working?
- If not, your FBH is locked.
- If you can hear it, wait 5 minutes to see if it gets hot, if does, its is working.
- If not, you need a diag tool to see why not.
15th Feb 2021 11:16 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
cmb2020 wrote:
I’m struggling to find the part with the fuel cup
what is a fuel cup? never heard of it...Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
15th Feb 2021 11:35 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
The cup can corrode and fall away or disintegrate completely. It sits in the burner beneath the ceramic insulator.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th Feb 2021 11:43 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
yeahhh.... but it is NOT a part seperate available...
it is not in the Webasto or LR partslist, therefore not available...
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
and TBH that IS cheap bij Webasto standards..
Webasto parts are generally cheaper in Germany than in the UK or elsewere.. not this burner though...
i think it is beause it is sold and bought as a LR part...
for those "just" looking for a new glow plug... partnumber 1315949B is seperately available (not sure if it is the same as TTV as this number is found in a TT EVo atalog/list ) is in Germany € 68,23 inl VAT (ex VAT 57,34)Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
15th Feb 2021 1:49 pm
wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
Hello!
My FBH often fails to start. So I decided to use this manual and dismantled the unit to clean and inspect.
I found much of soot, cleaned all the parts and put them together again.
Back in the car the FBH is working fine. It starts without ans problems.
BUT!!!!
Now there is a new fault. A loud buzzing sound. It seems to be the combusting air fan.
Does anyone have an idea what went wrong. I didn't touch the inside of the combusting air fan. I unboltet the upper part of the FBH and layed it beside.
15th Feb 2021 5:30 pm
arb
Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: hampshire
Posts: 29
wedgev8, I haven't had that particular symptom.
All I can think that's happened is that perhaps a piece of soot / carbonised crud has fallen from the unit when you cleaned it and got into the fan area. Or even that the re-assemble didn't go quite perfectly. (not a judgement on your skills! - just that these things happen!)
To be sure you could try another dismantle and clean - and have a look around the fan part. rather than risk fan / blade damage.
Best of luck
arb
24th Feb 2021 1:15 pm
wedgev8
Member Since: 17 May 2019
Location: Kerpen
Posts: 181
The FBH is working fine now. I have found a new blower head unit for less money at eBay.
Fittet this with a new gasket on the burner unit and all is good.
There was an inbalance at the shaft of the old blower motor.
28th Feb 2021 5:18 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
Sorted yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Feb 2021 5:25 pm
itguy
Member Since: 30 Dec 2009
Location: Melton Mowbray, Leics
Posts: 181
arb wrote:
cmb2020 - I feel your pain. Today I had time to test the sensors (all checked out) and tried the board swap from the salvaged RRS unit i bought. Managed to do that with the rest of the unit still plumbed in!
Would you mind if i ask how you went about swapping the board out without removing the whole unit and unplumbing it?
I may well be facing the same need with my FBH seeing as I am getting CAN errors and it is fine on W-bus. Need a donor unit I think...
7th Mar 2021 9:50 pm
arb
Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: hampshire
Posts: 29
Swapping board with unit still plumbed in
itguy - overall a case of gently does it. Not a huge amt of room but do-able. here's what i did:
When I did it, i'd already freed the unit from its side support panels (the black metal panels left and right) - 6 or so torx screws in total (might need to move the expansion tank and windscreen washer a little to help access the torxes). ... and removing headlamp aids access also.
The fbh will then be able to be moved forwards a little to gain access to the plastic shroud lugs (see below). But the key benefit here is that I'm not breaking the coolant loop and associated mess again.
CHANGING THE BOARD
Ignition off and probably best to disconnect batt. too. (although I didn't).
Ease off all the electrical connectors from the in-situ unit and bend aside.
Twist off the intake flexi pipe.
Ease off the fuel line from the FBH (and plug with a golf tee) - if u already replaced clip with fuel line jubilee then all the easier for this one.
Apply some silicone spray or similar to the locking lugs on the black plastic shroud/cover - (there are four - two per side).
The plastic (shroud and lugs) is prone to splitting so i made sure it wasn't freezing temps (used hair dryer to warm up side of FBH)
I got the plastic cover free by gently pushing each lug in and easing the cover off using a sml screwdriver in the small cutouts at the edge of the cover (having three arms useful here!).
Once you've eased them all off a bit, the cover should ease off and out.
Then you'll be faced with something like this (probably with some more wires/plugs - this one was part dissassembled)
There'll also be four bolts to undo (see the four holes above - bolts already removed in pic).
Then ease out the connectors - white twin for the glow, 8pin for control and another one from memory which might have been the preheat (you may not have this one). Make a note of the order they're layered in (eg white on top etc).
You should then be able to gently ease out the board part - it comes away with the socket board and is in an L-shape with a gasket all around. See below.
Refit is reverse - just make sure the leads and plugs sit back in nicely BEFORE you replace the shroud - fiddly but it's do-able.
Good luck!
arb
7th Mar 2021 11:35 pm
itguy
Member Since: 30 Dec 2009
Location: Melton Mowbray, Leics
Posts: 181
That’s fantastically helpful, thank you for posting up with pictures etc.
Yes, it is the avoidance of mess / coolant everywhere again that i am trying to avoid, given I know my burner is now good and it’s just an electronics/coding problem I’m working with now...
8th Mar 2021 6:44 am
Andy_M1
Member Since: 11 Jan 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 7
Am about to service my FBH in the discovery 3 does anyone know where I can get the gaskets for the ceramic part of the burner from and if possible a part number? I've tried searching but no success.
24th Mar 2021 10:01 am
arb
Member Since: 25 Jan 2019
Location: hampshire
Posts: 29
Hi Andy, I tried in vain to find the ceramic part and gaskets - failed.
They (LR and Webasto) annoyingly just dont break the burner down further in terms of parts. It's even hard to find the glow plug ass'y.
Shame really, as there's a growing community of people (not only LR) that are actively breaking down and servicing their burners.
Tried to hunt down via some Eastern European suppliers but that turned up blank too.
I resorted to finding used burners on ebay to 'up-cycle' parts that weren't available new.
Seem to remember Harold (Motolab) - on this thread - set out a list of new spares available?
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