Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6769
Well, Mannol AG55 is like 5-6 eur/liter so they certainly do have a premium on theirs.
Same for differentials. The fluid is nothing special, in practice any 75W-90 API GL-5 fluid will do. You will need about 1.1 + 0.6 liters of it. Transfer box, Ravenol TF-0870 is 20 eur/liter, you need about 1.42 liters… and the change takes about 15 minutes for each when on a ramp. Takes a bit longer if you have to crawl underneath.
Member Since: 20 Sep 2017
Location: Altlinster
Posts: 420
Justed used this guide to flush the transmission on my D5. EASY!! Much easier than on the D4!!
My D5 has now done 70000km since I had it... Oil was a DARK colour, bit still slightly green.
Taken S5 for a drive, and la ovely and smooth again. It was very smooth before, but now you can hardly even feel the gear changes.
Thanks for the guide!!
28th May 2022 3:03 pm
Morrungulo
Member Since: 21 Dec 2022
Location: Midrand
Posts: 1
LR4 HSE - 2010 ZF6 Transmission Oil change
Hi Robbie, Please would you let me know if a guide is available for the transmission oil change on my Discovery 4 HSE TDV6 2010 model woth the ZF6 auto transmission. Many thanks for your great content online!
21st Dec 2022 12:06 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 345
Hi Morrongulo,
That would be the same gearbox as on the Disco 3's, Filo's guide will help you out: https://www.disco4.com/forum/topic55010.html
Very easy and quickly done, did a double flush myself this autumn on my D3.
21st Dec 2022 3:39 pm
DiscoBarny
Member Since: 18 Jun 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 3
Which oil temp should I measure (and how)?
Hi All,
Apologies for my confusion (and long-ish post), but I'm just about to perform my transmission flush and wanted to double-check which oil temp I should be measuring during the refill.
Step 13 of Robbie's guide states: "Using either a thermometer on the sump or a suitable diagnostic tool, monitor the gearbox oil temp until it exceeds 69 deg C."
Assuming this is indeed the transmission oil (vs. engine oil), is Robbie referring to the measuring the temp on the transmission 'sump' (i.e. plastic pan, as opposed to the engine sump, which would reflect the higher engine oil temp)?
Robbie's IID tool refers to 'Oil temp' and 'Sump oil temp' - is 'Oil temp' for the transmission (and therefore 'Sump oil temp' for the engine)?
Finally, assuming it is indeed the transmission oil temp I should measure, am I ok to simply insert a rod-style thermometer into the transmission pan (via fill port) to check the transmission oil temp, or can I point my IR thermometer at something more relevant/accurate?
17th Feb 2023 12:51 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1476
I use an IR thermometer on either the transmission sump or even the transmission body to get the oil temperature.
If the sump is plastic, i would use the transmission body for the temp.
I wouldn't worry too much about the engine oil temperature.
17th Feb 2023 1:23 am
Davethegeo
Member Since: 01 Oct 2015
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 919
Just completed the auto gearbox oil change for the third time - although first time on this current car.
Thanks again to Robbie and the other contributors for help and advice.
I found the plug kit - LR065237 - on ebay for £25 which was needed, as the drain plug was mashed and the 10mm hex socket was quite rounded. Managed to get it out by hammering a M12 12-point star bit into the hex socket on the plug. Quite a high risk strategy I suppose....
Gearbox oil was from Smith and Allan - Smith & Allan ATF 8 - Lifeguard 8 - Automatic Transmission Fluid - 5L - £40 for 5l.
The old oil didn't look too bad - still green - but the oil change has made changes much smoother. Appearances can obviously be deceptive as far as oil goes.D1 300Tdi - gone
D2 Td5 ES (Alive remapped...mmm) - sadly gone
D4 2012 SDV6 XS - Stolen
D4 2014 SDV6 HSE - Shiny
29th Jul 2023 4:41 pm
Marcrod
Member Since: 11 Feb 2024
Location: Cheltenham
Posts: 12
Tip for D4 8Speed
Just did my Disco 4 transmission oil and filter change. Found that if you undid the 2 x 8mm bolts holding a wire bracket on, then the filter was easier to rotate through 90° and get out without having to lift or take out any cross members. When putting the new one in however, be careful that the new seal doesn’t snag or rip. Found the ZF Lifeguard guide also useful when topping up. Torqued all the bolts I could get to, I had to use a right angled T40 torx to get the end bolts out and just tightened them to nipping and a bit with the Torx, which was the same as my 10nm with the torque wrench. Got around 5 litres out overall (as said before, there is a mess no matter what you do). I did make more room by having the truck on 3T Halfords axle stands (on the third setting). This meant I had room to ease out the old filter. 13 plate truck has 152K on the clock, and it was pretty dark coming out (first time it has been changed I reckon), but the magnets where pretty clear and only a bit of metal sludge. Patience was the key when removing/replacing the nuts and the filter. Truck is definitely quieter now on change and doesn’t sound like it needs another gear on the motorway at 70 (obviously).
Front and Rear Diff Oils (as well as transfer oil) were done previously. But I did have to take both under trays off to get to the front most bolts. I wouldn’t recommend doing them all at the same time, unless you’ve done them before, as it was 5 hours total for the transmission (with the procedure after).
Good luck 😀
11th Feb 2024 3:06 pm
itsaguything
Member Since: 20 Dec 2023
Location: Manotick, On
Posts: 262
Glad to find this thread. Well done on the attention to detail.
There is only one difference between written procedure and mine; I always change filters when performing any fluid change.
As identified by ZF
https://aftermarket.zf.com/app/controller/...90da53.pdf
This is a standard procedure.
Of course the jury is out it its worthwhile to replace the plastic pan with a metal option, with the obvious advantages and disadvantages. But to negate one of the perceived advantages, I have never experienced a cracked plastic pan… nor do I know of anyone who has.
Again, great writeup. I too have my transmission, diff and ptu fluids changed (in all vehicles) at 50k kms.2015 LR4 HSE Lux Aintree Green
2013 LR2 HSE Radiance Red
2007 XKR Jaguar Racing Green
2005 XJR Jaguar Racing Green
2002 S-Type R British Racing Green
12th Feb 2024 11:46 am
info@baum-hesse.de
Member Since: 23 Feb 2024
Location: Ennepetal
Posts: 2
Thx Robbie for this great how-to.
Did the change yesterday. Managed to do the filter change without disassembling the „gearbox-holder“. But I needed some „special“ tools. Attached some pictures of my selfmade wrenches. Caution!: it took me more like 6 hours and a lot of patience.
Question to the community:
Do i have to do the warm-up (69) again if i did not managed to finish the oil-level check yesterday because i got tired and it got dark yesterday waiting for the cool down below 50? Or will the oil „stay“ primed in the heat exchanger once the 69 deg reached and the valve opend?
Answer to some of DiscoBarneys questions above and possible little detail to Robbies great writing:
Did the 69 deg warm up yesterday. But waiting for the cool down (iid tool messuring) I recognized that even when the temp. indication was some 30 min at an initial level (just ignition on - no engine running) of 45 deg it raised again within a few seconds (half a minute) well above 50 deg. I am for sure that this is due to the fact that the sensor is somewhere „near“ the outside of the transmission housing and as soon as you start the engine and therefore pumping the oil, the warmer „inner“ oil mixes with the cooled down around the sensor and you get the „true“ temperature!
There is a seperate sensor for the transmission (@iidtool) but in the view-part of the iid tool it is just named oil-temperature. The iid tool gives you the option to choose whatever sensor(s) you like and view them in an „individual“ list.
In addition to that - i am pretty sure that it is not „sufficient“ to do the „real“ messurement with dripstick or IR thermometer. At least not, if you go exactly with the 69deg. I think, the 69 comes from an internal rule like: open the solenoid valve for the heat exchanger once the sensor transmission-oil-temp. has 69 deg.
But these sensors ar (sometimes) pretty far away from „absolute“ readings. There is a good chance of at least some 4-5 deg difference to the „true“ temperature.
I think that it is why the ZF guide for filter change which comes with the new filter says: after oil change fill up to initiial dripping, than „overfil“ 0,5liter and drive the car until you got a temperature of the oil greater than 75 degrees.
Found helpful advice concerning the question weather doing the adoption reset after the oilchange or not… (i will do it for sure when i am finished with the level check after breakfast) here:
Member Since: 30 Nov 2015
Location: Dubai
Posts: 165
Re: Robbie's Guide To ZF8 Auto Transmission Oil Change
awesome
3rd Apr 2024 5:39 pm
Ammdaz
Member Since: 17 Oct 2023
Location: Kent
Posts: 69
I would like people's opinion on whether to carry out this on ours or something else, I was thinking of doing a double drop to obviously dilute the old oil as much as possible. Ours is a 2015 on almost 119k with no evidence of gearbox oil being changed, yes I know it's well over recommended, but I believe it hasn't had a hard life and I have no issues with the gearbox. I want to get it sorted now and would appreciate people's opinion on best course of maintenance for it. Thanks.
Last edited by Ammdaz on 7th Apr 2024 3:25 pm. Edited 2 times in total
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