Is the offset gap normal, where the o ring is near? Mine looks exactly like the photos in this post. Narrower to driver's/right side of vehicle (UK) and wider gap on opposite side.
Car had timing belt done recently - might have been disturbed.
What is a fair price to pay for a new throttle body housing? I seen £36 to £360! I might find the plastic clips on the TB are broken.
Part code I found on mine matched
DISCOVERY 4/RANGE ROVER SPORT 3.0 TDV6 THROTTLE BODY AND VALVE 9X2Q-9L444-CA
Product Code: 9X2Q-9L444-CA
29th Oct 2021 6:25 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
It will definately have been disturbed if the timing belt was done recently …There is a long bolt holding the front inlet housing, on the drivers side, if fitted correctly I would think it would be very difficult to pull it fwd enough to replace the ‘0’ ring. Having replaced that ‘0’ ring myself on my D3, I wouldn’t have attempted it without removing that bolt and the clip first and removing the front inlet housing totally out of the way. You will not need to remove the main throttle body unless there is something broken on it, of course.D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
Can't be pulled forward enough to refit with that bolt still in place..
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
29th Oct 2021 8:24 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
DN wrote:
It will definately have been disturbed if the timing belt was done recently …There is a long bolt holding the front inlet housing, on the drivers side, if fitted correctly I would think it would be very difficult to pull it fwd enough to replace the ‘0’ ring. Having replaced that ‘0’ ring myself on my D3, I wouldn’t have attempted it without removing that bolt and the clip first and removing the front inlet housing totally out of the way. You will not need to remove the main throttle body unless there is something broken on it, of course.
Thank you all for the useful information. I'll take off the bolt and clip.
The boost leak has consistency of black shoe polish.
Is it worth cleaning the Throttle body or is it likely to be just a thin layer of oily residue?
29th Oct 2021 10:12 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
What mileage has your vehicle done ? It’s likely it will have a substantial coating of the ‘boot polish’ you describe throughout the throttle body, and maybe the egr pipes going to it. If you do want to clean them out, it’s best to remove the throttle body and pipes if they are clogged too, and wash them out, with some type of degreaser, (avoiding electrical components like throttle position sensor and MAP sensor, in fact remove the MAP sensor at the very least, do not contaminate it at all, or you may incur extra expense ). Get new seals for front and back connections for when you refit it. Of course, unless you blank / disable the egr system, the gunk will just build up again (Mine has done just shy of 94k miles, and I haven’t found it to be that badly gunked yet, that I need to do this ).D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
29th Oct 2021 10:39 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
Thank you.
The car is an early D4 59 reg model, No DPF, it has 34k on clock only, gets serviced regularly. Had the fuel belt done too with the timing belt,even though the mileage was low the old fuel belt snapped in my hands when bent (I know it is not advised to bend them). Age is important.
I'll take the whole TB off and clean it. I got EGR cleaner spray and acetone. I'll be frugal - acetone deteriorates plastics. Too much EGR - run away engine ...boom etc.
Only last week I was looking up that Britpart video about replacing the EGR valves as it is approaching 40k mark.
On my old Skoda it is a 30 min job to clean properly after removing throttle body. On the D4 , everything is tightly packed. For instance - The passenger side EGR apparently needs the AC pipe disconnecting to replace if this needed doing in future.
Thanks
PS Safety - working near engine cooling fan - disconnect battery advised on cold engine or pull fuse?:
30th Oct 2021 9:35 am
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
Wow, that seems a low mileage to be requiring this action ….No need to worry about the cooling fan, unless you are running the engine, it is belt driven, not driven electrically. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
30th Oct 2021 9:59 am
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
Guide - removal of throttle body
Thought I'd share some pics of TB removal to replace front leaky o ring.
If you want to replace just the o ring forward of the TB behind the cooling fan, then TB removal is not needed.
Once the o ring is replaced the two plastic parts of the TB will seat flush and parallel.
Pics posted in order. Tools needed were torx T30 , 8mm spanner, spanner ratchet (was useful to save time).
Noticed that one of the two metal ribbed tubes (probably going to EGR) was missing a rubber o ring, but seemed to seal. When I removed tube from side of TB it was present but appeared dislodged and pushed further into the TB. Probably like this from new? No leak apparent.
Does the coolant hose clip look like it is seated correctly? One of last pics taken. There is a recess where it would allow the prongs of the horse shoe clip to go.
21st Nov 2021 8:03 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
Last photo shows bolt holding front of TB. Removing this makes it possible to pull plastic away from rest of TB towards fan. Move fan blades aside for more room. This allows replacement of the front oring without touching rest of TB. I had already bought rear two clunkier o rings so rest of photos show TB removal to clean.
21st Nov 2021 8:12 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
And more...
21st Nov 2021 8:15 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
Does this horseshoe clip look like it is secure (found under TB). There are a pair of recesses in plastic that appear to allow the horseshoe clip to fall into, only top recess can be seen in photo. On other cars I worked on the clip would be secure where it is in the photo, but why the recess then if that is not the correct, secure position?
Opinions?
Got the o rings from Advance Factors Southampton for this D4.
Perfect fit!
Dealer wanted £18. AF want a few quid...
I might replace the circular profile o rings where metal EGR hoses meet the sides of the TB. I have an o ring set with this size but I suspect these are specialist o rings that can withstand high heat etc? Opinions?
Thanks
21st Nov 2021 8:18 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
The EGR metal hoses where gunked up with sludge but not blocked. I guess the sludge gets worse towards the EGRs?
Worth doing EGR replacement?
I know the passenger side EGR needs AC refridgerant hose opening (AC system needs draining and collecting in machine).
Anyone know which EGR blocks up first (I'd have thought it would be the 1st turbo EGR rather than the 2nd turbo EGR).
Opinions? Thanks
21st Nov 2021 8:29 pm
GBL78
Member Since: 03 May 2024
Location: Shrewsbury
Posts: 11
Hi,
I know this is an old post, but I wanted to say thanks, as I have a coolant leak under the throttle body and was looking for some pics of how to get it off.
ta
9th May 2024 9:46 pm
bmbmdmb
Member Since: 11 Nov 2012
Location: yorkshire
Posts: 78
You're welcome!
I just wanted to pay back the site for useful info and help I got etc.
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…There is a long bolt holding the front inlet housing, on the drivers side, if fitted correctly I would think it would be very difficult to pull it fwd enough to replace the ‘0’ ring. Having replaced that ‘0’ ring myself on my D3, I wouldn’t have attempted it without removing that bolt and the clip first and removing the front inlet housing totally out of the way. You will not need to remove the main throttle body unless there is something broken on it, of course.
... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
). Get new seals for front and back connections for when you refit it. Of course, unless you blank / disable the egr system, the gunk will just build up again 
).
