Member Since: 22 Feb 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 889
Discovery 4 fuel tank removal and wiring for sender FINISHED
Ive got the intermittent fuel gauge issue where it disappears and returns at random intervals.
Im assuming its the wiring in the tank.
Im going to drop the tank the next saturday thats fine weather. Question is, can i use standard butt jointing crimps and or solder the cables together and cover in heat shrink?
The part for the landrover tsb says a special crimping tool is required? or is this just standard crimpers?
Ill order the gasket but wondered if I should use the landrover crimps, not having the tool.
Also, the haynes manual is pretty straight forward in tank removal, but its for the d3, are they the same?
Many thanks, Steve[/b]You remind me of a younger me, not much younger mind...perhaps even a little older!
Last edited by sasdiscos on 16th Feb 2019 3:15 pm. Edited 1 time in total
11th Feb 2019 7:18 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Not sure I'd want to put any heat near a fuel pipe that has been submersed in diesel, or indeed, heat anywhere near an open fuel tankMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 19 Oct 2016
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 31
I had mine done 2 years ago by local LR indy and they cut the joint and soldered the wires and covered with heat shrink - don't know how they heated the heat shrink though hopefully not a lighter!!
They reckoned it was a permanent fix unlike the system used by LRDiscovery 4 HSE 2010
Freelander 2 XS 2009
Discovery 2 2001: Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.9 V8 1992: Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 :Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 1985:Gone
Range Rover Classic 3.5 V8 1979:Gone
11th Feb 2019 9:46 am
Fitzy73
Member Since: 09 Feb 2014
Location: Truro
Posts: 2407
Apologies if you already know this, but once the display for the fuel gauge disappears permanently, you can only drive it for so long, regardless of the amount of fuel you actually have, before the car decides you have runout and it cuts the engine.
So don’t leave it as long as I did! If you have an IID tool or similar you can clear the codes to gain a little more time with the engine running.Andy
11th Feb 2019 10:16 am
sasdiscos
Member Since: 22 Feb 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 889
I would assume that I can take the u it away from the tank and solder the wires once cleaned up. Should make a much better job than crimps.
I was aware of the cut out issue, however. I did 30 odd miles with it reading 0 the other day and it still kept on trucking!
Code reader is on my list of things to buy. Just not got round to it yet.
I’m still half tempted to put it in the garage and let them do the sender, I’m not sure I can be arsed messing about under cars any more!
SteveYou remind me of a younger me, not much younger mind...perhaps even a little older!
11th Feb 2019 1:51 pm
sasdiscos
Member Since: 22 Feb 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 889
Has any one actually done this on the drive? I can only find one video online. Seems ok ish.
Crimpers part number comes up as standard crimps so all ok there if i order the lr crimps. The tsb says there are up to 6 connectors in tank, with the d3 i can only see one wire in and out on the video on line.
I assume that the d4 is much different to the d3.
SteveYou remind me of a younger me, not much younger mind...perhaps even a little older!
11th Feb 2019 6:01 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Member Since: 22 Feb 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 889
Thanks Mikey. Like your enthusiasm.
I’ll give it a go. That’s my worry. Literally dropping the tank!
I’ll report back when I’m done, or covered in diesel with a brick on the drive begging for knowledge on here.
I don’t miss not having a discovery to fix all the time, honest!
Steve.You remind me of a younger me, not much younger mind...perhaps even a little older!
11th Feb 2019 7:48 pm
sasdiscos
Member Since: 22 Feb 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 889
Managed to drop the tank this avo, took about an hour and a half, would have been faster but the bleeding vent pipe clips wouldn't play ball.
Jacked up the car, front and back and put on axle stands. Used trolly jack to drop, unclipped pipes as it came down, there is a fair bit of play actually.
Question now is, how the hell do i get the pump assembly out of the tank???
I can see the 2 connectors i need to fix, but i wanted to solder them instead of crimp. I wanted to get the sender away from the tank, cleaned up and on a bench for the fix.
Is it best just to crimp in situ? Ive managed to get the cable from the pump away from its retaining clips so i can just about do it.
SteveYou remind me of a younger me, not much younger mind...perhaps even a little older!
14th Feb 2019 5:27 pm
sasdiscos
Member Since: 22 Feb 2013
Location: Northants
Posts: 889
Well, all done and well happy. Took about 3 hrs in total on my own. Maybe could have been faster with help. Saved myself a few quid in the process, been a while since ive worked on any of my cars, bringing back the love.
Top of tank
Removed to expose wiring and pipes.
Cut and twist wires together.
Crimp and secure.
Clean up.
Fit new gasket.
Refit pipes and securing ring.
Chuck offending articles, two in total on my tank.
Refit tank, reconnect all pipes, replace heat shields etc, connect battery, prime fuel system.
Turn on and hey presto.
SteveYou remind me of a younger me, not much younger mind...perhaps even a little older!
16th Feb 2019 3:08 pm
Landylad
Member Since: 23 Dec 2008
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 366
Just been forwarded the link to this thread as similar issue. Good work Sasdiscos. Did you get those crimps direct from LR and what tool did you use for crimping? Do they not need to be water tight?If in doot, flat oot!!
14th Jan 2024 5:07 pm
chopcat
Member Since: 08 Apr 2013
Location: Pembrokeshire
Posts: 481
What codes should I be looking for ?
Others report that there is no restriction on range with a break in the fuel level sensor wiring so interested to hear what I need to look for on the BII
AND can anyone advise where the wiring runs down the body. Am about to try and trace the connectors.
Trevor
Trevor
Fitzy73 wrote:
Apologies if you already know this, but once the display for the fuel gauge disappears permanently, you can only drive it for so long, regardless of the amount of fuel you actually have, before the car decides you have runout and it cuts the engine.
So don’t leave it as long as I did! If you have an IID tool or similar you can clear the codes to gain a little more time with the engine running.
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