Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
enb54 wrote:
garrycol wrote:
SafariDave wrote:
Did you check if the D3/RRS/RR 4.4 V8 would work on the V6 D3? I see them on Craigslist for sale from cars that have been salvage. Its a reliable engine.
Not really feasible without taking every computer, sensor and wiring from the donor car as well. The computers in the V6 will be expecting input from a V6 not a V8 and the computers all talk to each other so they all need to be matched.
Yes doable but not really feasible in the real world.
Hi back, if you work in electronics you can do some surprising things with microcontrollers, to make an ECU believe that there is something else at the other end of the cable. I have played with making a large Cummins diesel engined machine (computer controlled) believe it was talking to a Cummins diesel when in reality it was talking to a Caterpillar 3406e (computer controlled), and it did pass our pretty strict DOT (Canada and USA) safety testing...
Just sayin', not being critical...
Of course you can if you have the expertise and have access to required input sensor values - if you dont it is expensive and time consuming - so not worth the effort. See the threads about putting in a TDV8 in a D3 replacing a TDV6 by an expert. See he bought an entire donor car to get the engine and all the computers and wiring rather that the extreme cost of trying to get the TDV8 to run on the TDV6 wiring and ECUs.
Anything is possible but is it worth it. If you wanted a V8 you would just sell what you have and buy a V8 vehicle.
Hi @garrycol...
I have not read the TDV8 LR3 conversion post you refer to, but have done many engine conversions and usually the only thing you require with modern engines and manual transmissions is the engine and the Engine Control Module. Modern automatic transmissions (like the ZF6HP26 or Ford 6R60, etc) create their own version of Hell for the hot rod enthusiast by not working at all unless you can somehow summon all your programming and interfacing skills to trick it. As you rightly state, this is an insurmountable barrier for the average person, but not for a determined one. The situation with farmers and modern farm machinery is an example of the battle between owners of purchased products (like you and I) and manufacturers who allow only limited access to their technical documentation, thus creating a "repair underground" of owners who usually for economic reasons want to do their own maintenance and repair work. It is very understandable that if I want to install a Chevrolet LS version V8 engine in a 2007 Mercedes G500 G-Wagen Mercedes won't budge, but it is reprehensible that I can't easily get the information to diagnose and repair the original OEM engine.
That is why hot rodders are hot rodders, and also why you and I are on this forum. The "right to repair" by owners is a movement that is gaining traction in the world, as manufacturers make it harder and harder to repair or modify their products. There will always be people who want to do something different, and it does not matter whether it is feasible or not, the fact that it is doable is why we are here...
1340 edited to add "diagnose and"
Last edited by enb54 on 27th Jun 2019 7:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total
27th Jun 2019 3:44 pm
SafariDave
Member Since: 19 Nov 2011
Location: NYC & LA
Posts: 775
enb54 wrote:
Well, I have used synthetic engine oil since about 1980, not about to stop now and have filled the test engine with Castrol Syntek, but also going to use it (synthetic tranny oil, NOT engine oil) in the ZF6HP26X transmission, at 260K Km either it will work or I will rebuild the tranny. I am definitely NOT going to use that overpriced oil that ZF plugs, selling here about $25 or $30 (CDN) a litre (US quart) when I can get Valvoline or Castrol for between $25 to $40 for 5 litres. Just my thoughts, you pay your money and you take your choices... Or is it the other way around?...
I use Castrol Ultraclean GTX 5W30 on the 4.4 V8 (castrol says it's a semi synth) I have used it for 60K miles now, I change it every 6,000 miles or every 6 to 9 months.
DaveD3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey "The Rhino" (our NYC D3)
De-tangoed Headlights, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille, D4 19" Wheels/ Bridgestone Alenza
D3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille (our LA D3)
D2 1999 V8 SD7 Chawton White (our Caribbean Beach truck)
27th Jun 2019 5:31 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6753
Shell Helix Ultra Professional AF 5W-30 for my V8, it is a fully synthetic oil though.
Like SafariDave I also change every 10000 km (or once a year) but in practice it’s been changed on the kms roughly 2x annually.
I use Shell for no good reason beyond liking the brand. Pricing-wise I think ~8 liters (7.7l) is approximately 75 eur and the shop that changes it for me takes 20 eur for the change itself. I bring my own oil filter since all they have is filtron or wix as well as new sump plug.
OK folks...
I use whatever "synthetic" (just highly refined ordinary oil) is available at my local oil change station, but I do use the cheapest best filters I can get my hands on. Oil changes every 5 to 10 K KM, and the mighty Nissan X-Trail is doing great at 280K Km. Maintenance is the key to a long life for any vehicle, this new project Land Rover LR3 is at about $4500 of it's estimated budget of $10K. If the budget is exceeded, the LR3 is being sold for parts and I'll be beating a path to something new...
You know, I really like helicopters!!!... Especially those Russian Kamov counter-rotating rotor types (Ka-32) that a friend a long time ago told me would never work...
Edit: Spelling
29th Jun 2019 3:24 am
SafariDave
Member Since: 19 Nov 2011
Location: NYC & LA
Posts: 775
How is it going with the engine install?
DaveD3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey "The Rhino" (our NYC D3)
De-tangoed Headlights, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille, D4 19" Wheels/ Bridgestone Alenza
D3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille (our LA D3)
D2 1999 V8 SD7 Chawton White (our Caribbean Beach truck)
Sorry all, had a serious computer failure and my backups were incorrectly formatted, have learned my lesson and changed my ways. Engine is just about ready to be removed, hopefully will get a few days this week to get back to it...
14th Jul 2019 4:07 pm
SafariDave
Member Since: 19 Nov 2011
Location: NYC & LA
Posts: 775
Good luck!
I hope you are successful with the engine swap.
DaveD3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey "The Rhino" (our NYC D3)
De-tangoed Headlights, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille, D4 19" Wheels/ Bridgestone Alenza
D3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille (our LA D3)
D2 1999 V8 SD7 Chawton White (our Caribbean Beach truck)
Thanks Dave...
I will be heading out to the shop tomorrow, but my friend and I are borrowing a hydraulic engine hoist from another person, plus we have to find or buy another engine stand, blah blah blah… It should be entertaining at the very least, have learned a lot about the British engineering, the G-Wagen is I think similarly difficult to work on, but perhaps that is like comparing apples and oranges...
Eric...
July 18
New motor mount perhaps ready, Ford Ranger upper oil pan (structural) drilled and tapped for oil temperature sensor (installed), blue is Permatex silicone sealer. Won't be here for several days, taking grandchildren to mountains for a short getaway...
19th Jul 2019 5:35 am
SafariDave
Member Since: 19 Nov 2011
Location: NYC & LA
Posts: 775
If you are successful with this swap, then you can replace the engine any time.
DaveD3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey "The Rhino" (our NYC D3)
De-tangoed Headlights, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille, D4 19" Wheels/ Bridgestone Alenza
D3 2005 V8 SE Bonatti Grey, D4 2016 Style Black Pack Grille (our LA D3)
D2 1999 V8 SD7 Chawton White (our Caribbean Beach truck)
Hi Dave...
That is a thought, but I was really disappointed that so many folks said that it was possible but could not find anyone who had actually done it. Having found out so far that the engine block has been drilled and tapped differently for the LR3 engine mount brackets, the oil temperature sensor in the cylinder block cradle (upper oil pan) needed to be addressed and along with repositioning the driver's side knock sensor it has been a learning experience. Hopefully the rest is a piece of cake and others will benefit from my experience, will keep posting our progress with a few photos now and then. Thanks for your input...
Eric...
Okay, could not find the oil temperature pigtail at the auto wrecker, heading for the Ford dealer ...1967 Ford Bronco 289 V8 (1968)
1974 Toyota FJ55 3.9L I6 (1975)
1984 Chev K5 Blazer Camper 400 V8 (1989)
2006 Nissan X-Trail Bonaventure 2.5L I4 (2007)
2007 Land Rover LR3 4.0L V6 (2019)
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