Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
I'm 97% sure a timer WILL NOT work with that RR product.
Think about what happens.
The £40 push button solution requires you to press the button and release it to start the heater.
A timer will effectively hold that button in for 15 mins.
What will happen when you hold that button in for 15 mins. (try it for 1 minute).
It may start the heater. However when it releases the button after 15 mins, I doubt it will turn off the heater.
You need to experiment before ordering a timer.
The white plugs are included with the timer. You can see them in some of the ebay pictures.
I have started the heater by remote, and then started the engine before the 15 min timer is up and driven off (a couple of times)
I didn't notice any adverse effects e.g the temperature gauge wasn't lower than normal. I have assumed the heater remains on as the landrover control is telling it to be on.
I simply left the remote on an upstairs window sill. One of the first things I did when getting out of bed was to press the remote button (if the cars looked frosted up). The 15 min timer was usually up before I got to the car.
17th Dec 2020 12:00 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
What makes you say "The £40 push button solution requires you to press the button and release it to start the heater."?
Its not clear in the ad about the sort of button needed. It shows a button in the picture, but calls it a "switch". I went with the description and assumed it was a latching push on / push off, ie like many car dash buttons it stays in and keeps the contacts closed when pushed the first time then releases and opens the contacts when pushed a second time.
I was going to set up the remote relay accordingly and latch on / latch off rather than ping the controller, but now you've given me doubts.
This is the ad (no documents come with the module):
I've sent a message to the vendor for clarification.
17th Dec 2020 3:30 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Hi Pete,
Just got a really fast reply from Romania. For the £40 version the switch is definitely a straight forward on/off switch, not a momentary press one. So the timer should work fine.
17th Dec 2020 5:43 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
That's excellent news then
17th Dec 2020 5:49 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Thanks for all your help on this Pete. Top man
Hi Ho, Hi Ho, its off to my garage I will go.....
17th Dec 2020 6:00 pm
kineland
Member Since: 15 Jul 2014
Location: cavaillon
Posts: 188
hi at all
my ecu for webasto isn't recognize with my iidtool..."auxiliary heater not assembled"
a few days before everything was working well..i have the 1533 timer i have the altox and now disaster i have nothing left and even with the wtt software (the fbh is stopped)
I removed the fuse I put it back and still nothing !!!
could we run the webasto without going through the control ecu?
Thank's so much for your help
Philippe
20th Dec 2020 12:34 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
Hi
I think you are better off posting in a new thread.
This one is about cheap remote kits and I don’t think it will help your problem.
20th Dec 2020 2:04 pm
Lrstaylor
Member Since: 03 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 619
I am aware that the guy on the bay has raised his prices for the remote control version to operate the fbh.
Well I bought his £40 w-bus converter and with a little bit of know how have connected it to a remote switching unit which cost me about a fiver and have tested it and will be fitting it to my mates car tomorrow.
20th Dec 2020 9:18 pm
munst
Member Since: 16 Sep 2020
Location: GLOS
Posts: 155
That is pretty much exactly what you get with the remote option anyway, your solution is much cheaper!
Still haven't got around to fitting mine, looks like I might need it next week so I'll get it sorted soonest.
20th Dec 2020 9:38 pm
Lrstaylor
Member Since: 03 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 619
Yep I bought one of his at £55 before the cold snap and fitted it to our D3.
My mate wanted one a week later and it was hundreds soooo he wasnt gonna buy it at that price. I was going to reverse engineer a unit using our one but the new w-bus only unit was different but simple enuff to connect to a remote switching controller.
Happy to share connections but following the basic ebay diag is straight forward but you will need to alter the remote switching unit as well.
20th Dec 2020 9:43 pm
Lrstaylor
Member Since: 03 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 619
Managed to fit my little cheap fbh controller to my mates car last night, his engine was hot so couldnt test it but had a txt message from him this morning saying it fired up perfectly from the remote from his bedroom window.
Nice n toasty car this morning
23rd Dec 2020 12:45 pm
Bubblehead
Member Since: 01 Jun 2020
Location: Horndean
Posts: 214
Does it matter where the module is located once wired in? Is it a case of wherever it can be situated or does it need to be in a certain position for the remote to 'see' it properly? I've plenty of wire to extend the short ones that are fitted so i can position it where will be best.
Also, this may be a really stupid question, but what does the 'W-Bus' mean?
And last question.. on the remotes that have A and B rather than on and off, which is which please?
Will be fitting as soon as this rain stops...
Thanks in advance.2005 Disco3 HSE Auto 😁
23rd Dec 2020 5:15 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
A is On
I fitted mine on the side of the upper glovebox (door side) and the reception is great.
I ensured the Antenna spiral was pointing up
Obviously you don't want any metal between the antenna and windscreen.
(if people have these working under the metal bonnet, it should be no problem inside )
2005 models have the advantage of the red wire connected to the heater.
If you know how to "continuity test" or "bell out" a wire then read on....
Behind the glovebox is the fusebox / CJB. It's mounted on a bracket.
If you remove the trim in the footwell and look up (assuming you don't have a bad back!) you can just about make out a grey rectangular connector behind the fusebox bracket. On it are 2 red wires. One of these is the heater wire.
Continuity check to find out which one goes to the heater and cut it, (be sure to get the correct one, I think its the thinner one) leaving enough length to connect to either end.
Continuity check again, to work out which end goes to the heater. Connect this to the remote controller. I put a red bullet crimp on the red wire to make this easy.
(this saves you running a wire into the bonnet area)
Regarding power, I took it from the fuse box, fuse 52, 5A fuse. You could use a piggy back fuse.
or I think the wire next to the red one may have +12v on it (purple/brown).
Click image to enlarge
23rd Dec 2020 5:37 pm
Lrstaylor
Member Since: 03 Oct 2018
Location: Kent
Posts: 619
We have the red wire on our car my mates does not we just removed the plastic blanking plug from pin2 on the fbh plug and connected or should I say just pushed the wire in .
Here is the modual iv just cable tied it to the fbh air intake and run the power leads direct into the fuse box.
Happy to take some better photos if needed
23rd Dec 2020 7:39 pm
Bubblehead
Member Since: 01 Jun 2020
Location: Horndean
Posts: 214
thanks for the photos, assume there is no problem with the remote connecting with it positioned under the bonnet?2005 Disco3 HSE Auto 😁
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