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neilthesparky
Member Since: 16 Mar 2009
Location: reading
Posts: 24
  
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Thanks to this forum once again. Emptying out the car after a weekend away, the top rear door would not open found these posts and problem now fixed, managed to knacker a couple of the white plastic clips but my local stealer should have some.
many thanks again
neil 
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 28th Jun 2009 8:33 pm |
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beast
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: UK
Posts: 5
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Near side rear door lock on my D3. Weak unlocking exibited when car still under warranty. multiple presses of unlock button would unlock it . I didnt recognize it as other than something I could fix some day untill the door stopped locking. New locks are over £50 plus £100 to get them fitted as special tools needed to remove door glass from mechanism to gain access to lock system. My local dealer parts dept selling one a week mainly to their workshops under warranty. All doors are as likely to fail. I understand no upgrades have been done by LR.
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| 19th Aug 2009 7:59 am |
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owl1972
Member Since: 18 May 2008
Location: S Yorks /Lincs
Posts: 26
 
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Got the tailgate problem on mine - none of the suggested remedies work - unfortunately....!! Anybody got any other ideas before I had to the dealers?
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| 19th Aug 2009 3:44 pm |
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spritemanufacturing
Member Since: 30 Aug 2009
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 1
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05D3. On holiday miles from our local stealer. Got an inflatable rib, a 4HP outboard, lifejackets, coolbox, picnic, spare fuel, oars and 3 kids in the Disco. Got to the site and found the ruddy top-door wouldn't open. I only mention the above so you can share in my pain of hauling all of the above out of the side door amid copious amounts of swearing and shouting, (not all the kids were mine and their parents don't come round anymore now!). Phoned our stealer who said 'push this while pulling that' sort of scenario you've all tried. Tried it - obviously it didn't work - it never will. Phoned him back. 'Oh, bet the cable's busted, they're always doing that'. He told me to attack the TOP trim and get to the mechanism that way. Unfortunately on returning home, I tried that first. After a lot more pulling, pushing and swearing (kids out the way - they avoid me now!) I started to realise that this couldn't be right. Surely the bit I wanted was in the bottom door. THEN I went on the net and discovered this site - DER!!! Thanks to SteveD and Callum555 the combined wisdom of both IS THE ONLY METHOD THAT WILL WORK. You must persevere with getting the trim off the bottom door. I started on the left (looking aft, driver's side) and used a big flat-blade to prise the trim out. It is the hardest part but it will work. Then as the other guys suggest, wedge something in the gap you've created (I also removed that flap-down piece to give me more working room, it's only a couple of easily accessible bolts), and scrape off the grey spongey cover. I would definitely recommend cutting through the outercable to expose the inner. Then pull the inner cable to release the door. When I read Steve and Callum's posts I wondered what would happen if the end attached to the door was broken? When you get the sucker out you'll see why it's always gonna be the latch end. It was designed by a retard that couldn't tie his own shoelaces! The cable terminates within the end fitting right on the 90 degree bend!! If one of my designers came to me with that, they'd be on 'bog cleaning duty' for a month! Once you've got the door open, remove the rest of the lower door trim and undo the 3 torx bolts that hold the latch mechanism in. Loosen (no need to remove) the two bolts that hold the servo in and remove that. You've now got the whole shooting-match in your hand. If you look at the end on the latch, you'll see a black painted piece that will - with some prising - hinge sideways to allow the cable out of that end. Remove the two screws holding the plastic cover on the servo, and remove the other end of the cable from that end. Hey presto!! Refitting is simle without the need for too much swearing and should be punctuated with many trips to the pub to moan about it to your mates, (assuming you have some left if it was their kids you were shouting at). GOOD LUCK! 99% of problem solving is looking carefully from all angles, saying nothing - and touching nothing til you're sure!
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| 30th Aug 2009 8:14 pm |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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beast wrote:New locks are over £50 plus £100 to get them fitted as special tools needed to remove door glass from mechanism to gain access to lock system. My local dealer parts dept selling one a week mainly to their workshops under warranty. All doors are as likely to fail. I understand no upgrades have been done by LR.
Special tool my *rse. They are pulling your leg. There are two big tabs holding the glass to the mechanism which look like they were designed to be seperated using your fingers alone. There maybe a tool for holding the glass up, but this is nothing some strong tape or a mate won't fix.
I did write a guide on replacing the latch mechanism here. I have also subsequently found the fault within the door mechanisms - the latch motor brushes were totally worn - I fitted some from a similar small motor and has worked fine since.
Iain
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| 31st Aug 2009 9:24 pm |
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Mike767
Member Since: 15 Oct 2008
Location: Congleton, Cheshire.
Posts: 138
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My tailgate failed last night. Tried all the quick fixes but no luck. Land Rover wanted £150 +VAT to do the job, so thought I'd have a go myself and follow sprites method. Worked a treat and cost me £30 for the latch, which was in stock. The only tricky bit was getting the carpet panel off so you can get the upper lid open. I started at the top of the panel, once you can get your fingers in it comes off quite easily.
Same failure, the 90 degree bend at the end of the cable where it attaches to the servo.
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| 21st Sep 2009 4:36 pm |
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namacgilp
Member Since: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1
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| Disco 3 54 TDV6 Tailgate opening failure |
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Just wanted to thank those who had described their adventures with the Disco 3 tailgateas they gave me the encouragement to tackle the rear door of my Disco 3.
In my case the symptoms were the same as others--ie the upper window wouldl not open despite the LR manual recommended method of holding down both lock and unlock buttons on the dash for 3 secs. Pressing the unlock on the outside rear handle gave a healthy solenoid sound but no amount of tugging would open the door! Followed the method of Sprite, starting by removing the short carpeted flap which covers the hinges on the lower door and used a couple of big screwdrivers at the top left corner of the lower door to lever the carpeted trim AND THE PLASTIC CORNER TRIM from under the hefty plastic trim which runs around the upper edge of the lower door. Once you get the first inch unclipped, you can get your fingers in and pull the carpeted trim away from the plastic edge trim. Once inside, pull away the spongy plastic which reveals the cable between the solenoid and the lock. To get at the inner cable you need to cut Three layers--black plastic covering, spiral wound wire as well as a white plastic lining. Grab the inner wire with long nose pliers and pull-- the top tailgate opens!!. [b]When I got the solenoid and cable out, leaving the lock in place, it became clear that the cable had not broken at all--just that the end where it connects to the solenoid had disconnected itself at the 90degree connector others have described.[/b] I decided to reconnect the cable to the solenoid, but to add a large dab of Araldite to the nipple at the cable end to disincline it to jump out again, and repaired the outer cable with a dose of insulating tape. Now reassembled, it works --at least so far at zero cost other than a few skinned knuckles!
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| 23rd Sep 2009 12:13 pm |
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LuganoBob
Member Since: 20 Apr 2010
Location: Staplehurst, Kent
Posts: 6
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| Front Pasenger door problem |
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Parked up today & my wife went to get out of the Disco 3 06 Hse Lugano Teal/ Alpaca but unable to open the front nearside door from the inside! She put down electric window to open from outside. I tried to double click & even switched off engine but still unable to exit. Any ideas?
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| 2nd May 2010 6:53 pm |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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As the title of the thread reads, you have the symptoms of a failed door latch. Replacement procedure in the WIKI pages.
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| 3rd May 2010 6:22 pm |
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LuganoBob
Member Since: 20 Apr 2010
Location: Staplehurst, Kent
Posts: 6
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Thanks, wiki on this site?
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| 4th May 2010 6:53 am |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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Look for Wiki near the top of the page, its in there somewhere.
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| 5th May 2010 1:51 pm |
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Matt W
Member Since: 25 May 2010
Location: Chew Valley
Posts: 1
 
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| Failed Rear Door Latch - Part Number? |
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Hello,
From the looks of it I'm in the failed latch camp (stopped unlocking with the fob, won't open with the interior or exterior door handles, will open if you hold out the lock latch whilst pushing the dashboard open button.) So firstly thank god for this forum, feeling slightly better that I'm not alone in my lock woes. Secondly, having looked at the excellent guide to replacing the failed parts I've again been reminded of just what a chicken I am when it comes to all things spanner related (no fault of the author of the replacement guide, I'm just hopeless with automotive fettling.)
I do have a first rate car mechanic buddy who always does the MOT/Servicing, and who doesn't pull your pants down when it comes to labour charges. So I wondered if anyone knows the LR parts number for the passenger side rear door lock mechanism? Lots of folks say it takes an age to order and get delivered, but I thought if I got the order in, once it arrived I could take it to my guy to fit.
Thanks in advance
Matt 
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| 25th May 2010 4:06 pm |
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Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
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Some dealers will have the part in stock, if not it only takes a couple of days usually. The dealers will soon find you the part no. of the item, which is around £45.
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| 26th May 2010 5:05 pm |
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snow?wotsnow?
Member Since: 01 Nov 2009
Location: Somerset
Posts: 24
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Many thanks to Steve, Calum and Sprite on this thread. Fixed the latch failure per their guidance. Thought I would add a photo showing the broken cable-end alongside the new one - with the stupid engineering design that shouts "failure point" at anyone with any feel for engineering. Clearly from the contributions to the thread, this is not the only failure mode for the symptom of being unable to open the top tailgate but probably the most likely one.
Mine lasted 5 and a half years since I bought my 54 plate SE new in Dec 2004.
You can also see that the part number for the latch/cable assembly has been changed from the previous FQR 500220 to LR017470 and the price to £24.77 including VAT
Edward
Please see my gallery for cable photo
Last edited by snow?wotsnow? on 18th Aug 2017 4:16 pm. Edited 3 times in total
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| 19th Jun 2010 9:16 am |
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AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
 
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Ancient Chinese cable-maker, he say "Expect many failures from crap design like that".
Presumably many more are part-fractured; just waiting for a cold, wet, windy night and a boot full of large, essential items...
 2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
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| 19th Jun 2010 11:05 am |
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