RSAChris
Member Since: 16 Apr 2010
Location: Centurion RSA
Posts: 154
  
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Contrary to all the rest, mine has the bottom part stuck. Pressing the button does not do anything - no sound.
Any suggestions? Proud owner of an IIDTool
2010 Disco 4 TDV6 SE
R2D3 the 2007 Disco 3 TDV6 SE... gone now
Romulus [Defender 110 CSW Td5] will always be missed
Rofty [Defender 110 CSW Td5] first Td5 and start of motor electronics...
www.flickr.com/photos/the_steyns
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 14th Jul 2010 10:58 am |
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Slingo3
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: AONB
Posts: 502
 
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Tailgate stopped working, would un-latch after holding the 2 buttons together for 3 secs but still needed someone to pull on the door. Dealers said it was the micro switch, took it in and they replaced the complete handle etc.. waited 20 mins, and all under warranty. Works a treat now - well done LR Ribb Motors - Settle - N Yorks
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| 13th Aug 2010 4:51 pm |
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rinkydink
Member Since: 12 Nov 2010
Location: Bristol
Posts: 3
 
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2007 D3 HSE. Hello, I'm new to this forum, I've recently aquired a Disco 3 for my missus - it all seems fine apart from the drivers door lock.
It seems "weak" when locking and unlocking - you have to press the keyfob multiple times to make the door lock or unlock. You can see the lock switch on the inside handle eventually close (or open) after about 3 presses of the keyfob.
Is this a known proble, can I fix it or is it a replacement?
Many thanks ... 
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| 15th Nov 2010 12:16 pm |
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therso
Member Since: 01 Dec 2010
Location: Here!
Posts: 368
 
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| [Mechanical] Door Latch Failure |
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Hello. Just joined. My vehicle a 2007 D3 HSE. A disabled vet (as in Army veteran) I depend on this vehicle to get me to hospital and back for kidney dialysis 3 times per week. I live in a cul-de-sac at the bottom of a hill so I need the snow/ice capability as ambulances won't even consider coming anywhere near me in the current weather conditions.
Tailgate won't open. Unfortunately I must depend on the dealer as the long-term physical effects of renal failure and dialysis makes it almost impossible for me to attempt a self-repair (renal bone disease in wrists and finger joints). Very frustrating as I learnt to drive on Land Rovers way back in the early seventies in the Army and operated in them for more than 20 years so I like to think that I know my way around them. At least I have a good idea of the likely fault from reading this forum.
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| 1st Dec 2010 6:56 pm |
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OutofAfrica
Member Since: 04 Jan 2011
Location: Port Elizabeth
Posts: 1
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I tooooo happened to have the misfortune of my rear tailgate not opening. Thanks to all of the information from everyone on this site, I tackled my problem last night and I am very pleased to say that it is all fixed now.
The L end piece on the solenoid side had snapped on the bend. I bent the remaining portion as far as I felt comfortable without breaking it and then slipped back into the black plastic join, which clipped in nicely and is working like a dream.
Maybe Landrover should change the cable design to have a T bar end stop OR a ball end stop, rather than that ludicrous L design. If anything is going to fail its going to be the L.
I am also very happy to say that this cost me ZERO, not plastic moulds were damaged, clips, etc. So I am very appreciative to everyone for putting their experiences onto this thread - Thanks Chaps !  2007 Disco 3 SE TDV6
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| 4th Jan 2011 6:27 am |
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geirstein
Member Since: 25 Feb 2008
Location: Oppdal
Posts: 36
 
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Posting moved to other location....
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| 9th Jan 2011 9:44 pm |
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ebygum32
Member Since: 03 Oct 2010
Location: yorkshire - London
Posts: 1590
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Done what people have said got to the inner cable then pulled and pulled and pulled but it does not release the tailgate, I can see the actuator pulling the cable when it is pressed, does anyone have any other ideas please this is doing my head in, what started off as a simple job at 0900'this am has been a total pain and cost me a day
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| 26th Apr 2011 3:52 pm |
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Stuart JG
Member Since: 30 Apr 2011
Location: UK
Posts: 5
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Hello all, new to the site and first post but just like to say thanks to all the guys (and gals) who posted solutions to the stuck tailgate problem. I had the broken "L" piece on the end of the cable (didn't know it at the time - just that the tailgate wouldn't open) and was able to do a self repair following your guidance. A couple of helpful hints to anybody else who has the same problem: first if the cable goes as the door starts to open (as mine did) DON'T shut it again hoping it will free itself! (Probably too late though if you're reading this!!!) It's a doddle to get at if the door is open, even if you have to drive a few miles home with the tailgate open it's worth it. (I was at the local tip when mine went. - getting the carpet covered trim off the lower rear tailgate is a pain but persevere, it's only 3/16" to a 1/4" inch under the plastic trim and the trim will flex enough to let it out even though it feels like it's going to crack and break. You also have to pull pretty hard to get the trim plugs free.
The carpet trim panel flexes back only just enough to get your hand in and then you find the plasticky/thin foam type membrane stuck over one of the cutouts in the metal right in front of the solenoid holding the cable. I managed to peel it back using fingernails to get behind the edges but it still split and tore in places. when I went to the dealers for a new cable I asked if they'd got a new membrane in stock. They said no, and that they always repair the old one with gaffer tape!
Once the membrane is pulled away the plastic cover referred to over the solenoid is fixed at one end only so will push back about an inch and a half - just about enough to get your fingers round between it and the solenoid to find the cable end. (You get your forearm, knuckles and fingers pretty scraped up but persevere.  ) I eventually wiggled the cable end far enough round to grab it with a pair of long nosed pliers and hey presto! the door just popped open  . Once open you can get at all the screws and take all the trim off as per the instructions in previous posts and replacing the cable is easy
Neither Hartwells in Northampton nor Stratstone in Milton Keynes would actually tell me what the problem was when I first rang - they wanted £150 to "investigate". When I went in and bought the new cable bit (£27 with VAT) they said "oh yeah, that's nearly always the reason." What ever happened to the friendly local dealer who would tell you what the problem might be and suggest you could fix it yourself? My nephew works for a Land Rover dealer and he said it's policy not to tell you what the fault might be and insist on an investigation - they want your money!!
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| 1st May 2011 6:19 pm |
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Namlandy
Member Since: 14 Sep 2008
Location: Namibia
Posts: 57
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Hi all, just strip my back door to open the top part. Cable came lose, did not breake like some, but what a  idea. I do not know why they bend it in like that, I'm gona put a ring lug on and hook it up with a bolt. Hope this will be a better design. Take a picture to post if I can load it.
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| 2nd May 2011 3:55 pm |
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rich11235
Member Since: 19 Dec 2010
Location: Henfield, West Sussex
Posts: 22
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Just followed the advice of Sprite, Stuart JG and others to fix the non-opening top tailgate issue, thanks guys for the reassuring guidance about how to get the trim off and get hold of the end of the cable. The pleasant clunk when you finally managed to grab the end and pull it to pop the top tailgate is like music to your ears.
I won't make any further comment on the crapness of the cable end design as it has already been said.
As I am a complete cheapskate and bodgemeister, I withheld my £27 from LR and fixed the end of the cable myself, by raiding the electrical box for a suitable sized chocolate block connector. If you liberate the brass bit from the plastic, hopefully you will find (like I did) that with a bit of careful filing (of the ends of the brass chocblock and the black plastic end of the solenoid) that the chock block just fits into the solenoid arm end, and receives the broken end of cable. One of the two chocblock clamp screws goes through the hole where the old, broken-off cable end L-piec lived, The other clamp screw sits just behind the flat end piece of the black solenoid end. So the load is spread between two places, I'm not sure how long it will last but it felt pretty secure when I had screwed it all together. Hope that helps
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| 5th Nov 2011 4:54 pm |
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disco bill
Member Since: 09 Aug 2011
Location: stoke on trent
Posts: 2
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hi does any body know how to connect the door latch to the outer handle on my disco 3 ,passenger rear door.
by this i mean the cable as i cannot see where it fits to the outer handle DISCO BILL
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| 29th Nov 2011 10:05 pm |
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wkdtroll
Member Since: 23 Aug 2010
Location: North Wales
Posts: 5
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OK here's a different slant:
Just got back from Spain where my Disco 3 suddenly developed the aforementioned tailgate fault....but (and don't ask how I found this out!!) if I bang the top (left side or right side) of the upper handle sharply IT OPENS!!?
This would point to it not being a cable problem as the shock obviously activates the lock!
Any ideas anyone cos I've got a really sore hand (ooh er missus!)? 
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| 30th Nov 2011 12:28 pm |
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tonigmr2
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: Herts
Posts: 277
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I've tried everything, double buttons, holding buttons, doubling people, hitting hit, kissing it and finally this
But my tailgate will not open at all. Looks like a dealer trip.  *now enjoying* D5 Namib Orange HSE 68
Disco4 Kaikoura Stone HSE 16
Disco4 Nara Bronze HSE 11
Disco4 Nara Bronze XS 10
Disco3 Rimini Red HSE 07
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| 30th Nov 2011 8:34 pm |
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rich11235
Member Since: 19 Dec 2010
Location: Henfield, West Sussex
Posts: 22
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When you press the button, is there any noise coming from the lower tailgate (like a kind of "whirr-click" as the solenoid tries to move, or is it completely dead?
If the former, then its probably the dreaded cable. If the latter probably the equally dreaded switch
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| 1st Dec 2011 8:06 am |
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tonigmr2
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: Herts
Posts: 277
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Well I can hear it trying. But it's now at Landrover and they tell me it's the switch rather than the cable. 
Either way they've confirmed it as a warranty item so I await with baited breath.... *now enjoying* D5 Namib Orange HSE 68
Disco4 Kaikoura Stone HSE 16
Disco4 Nara Bronze HSE 11
Disco4 Nara Bronze XS 10
Disco3 Rimini Red HSE 07
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| 5th Dec 2011 3:25 pm |
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