Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Yep, you're probably right about that crease but I will have another stab at it sometime just to satisfy myself I have done what I can. I suppose when all is said and done it is much better than it was and it is a 14 year old car that hasn't been pampered in a long time.
As for the dirt and dust in the air you are right but it is exactly because of the contamination and fallout that makes it important to regularly clean the paint if you like having a shiney motor. The dust and tree pollen just now is mad!
Hey ho that's life. Anyway, next on my cosmetic hit list is glass and exterior rubber/plastic trim. I did hit the plastic with boiled linseed oil a couple of weeks ago and this made a huge difference but I think I will spend a day on plastic when the weather warms up a bit. The glass is fairly easy; I think I will go with clay bar first to pull off the lighter contamination then 0000 wire wool for a deep clean and finish with a dedicated glass cleaner and maybe a coat of wax (but not the windscreen!). The glass roof is going to take a bit of effort.
The other area of endeavour will need to be the door apertures, sometimes called door shuts. The sills are badly scratched in places and there is general grime on the pillars. Some APC followed by a quick once over with the rotary polisher should sort it. Watch this space for that one.
11th Apr 2021 9:13 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Not done much since the marathon of polishing. It seems the air conditioning doesn't do what it should, blows warm air which was a bit inconvenient in the sun today. I'm guessing it probably hasn't had any attention in years and will need a re-gas.
I had a play with the suspension and put it in to super extended mode. That's quite impressive or at least I thought so.
After a quick maintenance wash at the weekend I am happy to report the sunroof drains are clear - BONUS!
I am hoping to dive in to the engine bay soon and inspect the timing belt and hopefully confirm what oil pump it has, I hope the pump has been done so it only needs a belt but I'm sure a bloke called Sod will put paid to that. Place your bets! will it need a pump, yes or no?
19th Apr 2021 5:06 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
The sun was out so I thought I would attack the drivers door sill. Frankly, the sill has had 7 bells knocked out of it. Why don't people pick their feet up?
Anyway, I fetched the rotary polisher with 1" pads and short extension and lined up the Menzerna and had at it.
Look at the absence of any reflection from the sill.
After polishing
The paint is badly damaged and even wet sanding won't fix this but at least it looks a bit better and even has a reflection.
23rd Apr 2021 3:29 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hi
Also wished to add welcome to the asylum , erm forum
Looks really nice and indeed they really do come up well , Fingers crossed the oil pump and belts have been done
Know the feeling when I first bought mine of the bits u find that aren't right , ac wasn’t working , etc had to replace the condenser in the end but u might be lucky and just need a regass
What DA machine did u use please
Look forward to the progress
Ps, pic of mine, can’t take credit as was kindly done for me using meguiars
23rd Apr 2021 5:56 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Hi gstuart, I saw your thread and the results of a good clean and polish, yours came up very well. I don't own a paint depth gauge but I think Land Rover put a reasonably thick layer of lacquer on their paint meaning it can be polished quite hard which is quite useful if there are deeper scratches because you can work the surface without burning through.
Anyway, in response to your question I use a DA 900 which I bought from Dodo Juice a couple of years ago as part of a package deal. Many manufacturers offer bundle deals on polishers; the range of choice and the bewildering number of options can be a bit daunting.
When I decided to try machine polishing I wanted to make sure I minimised the risk of doing any damage so I went for a DA polisher, these are generally safer as they don't generate too much heat and if you put too much pressure on the pad, it stalls whereas a rotary will keep going and potentially damage the laquer or burn through it. I know Dodo Juice have updated their product range across the board so some of the stuff I have is either renamed or superceded. I believe they no longer offer the Buff Daddy Pro Intro kit that I bought so I am afraid you'll just have to do some research. essentially my DA polisher is a DAS 6 which has a small throw.
For choosing polishers, have a look on youtube, the forensic detailing channel, you'll find an (old) interesting guide to choosing a polisher and how to get started with machine polishing. Then really it all comes down to what you want to do, how much you want to spend and how often you expect to use a polisher. Once you choose a machine you have to think about what polishes you'll use and then you have to wrestle with pad choice. The combinations of machine, polish and pad are mindblowing. Me, I choose to keep it simple, well, as simple as possible but trust me you can go mad with it! Hope that helps and happy polishing!
24th Apr 2021 7:13 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
OK! ROLL UP ROLL UP, place your bets.
I took the plunge and removed the timing cover, does it need an oil pump?
I'll tell you later when I post the pics and tell all!
24th Apr 2021 12:49 pm
nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4252
Yes I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
24th Apr 2021 12:53 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Not many takers I see. Mind you, I suppose it is sunny so I'll forgive the lacklustre response.
So what did I do today? Well apart from cutting the grass, I decided to check out the timing belt and oil pump. Has either been changed? Who knows, and when or if?
For those who have thought about doing this but weren't sure or just decided it is too technical and difficult, do it! Get stuck in. It really was easy although I will pay for it tomorrow because of my limited mobility, I expect my feet/ankles won't work tomorrow but never mind.
About 11:30 I decided to make a start
about 30mins later...
No evidence of an oil leak as such but a slight damp patch, could be anything, not worried so far.
While I was at it I thought it would be a good idea to get the lower fan shroud off and give it a clean. I wasn't expecting a truck load of cooling pipes to be clipped to the shroud but no big deal (especially when you have a 4 post ramp in the barn!)
Lots of room to see what's what and get in close, plenty of wiggle room.
After finding there is no real option other than to remove the top hose I was able to undo all the small bolts holding the timing cover. Have to say, I really liked the fasteners, undo the bolts but they don't fall out out! Fantastic! I did pop the throttle body off, it's so easy why wouldn't you. It certainly helped to have a clear view at the top.
Even with taking my time and after cleaning the fan shroud and the timing cover it had only taken 2 hours to get everything taken off ready for inspection.
Looks like the timing belt was changed, no idea of when. Best guess.. early 2014 based on the indicated dates on the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley. There is a clear "timing" mark on the front of the pump casing and there was a similar mark on the crank pulley so somebody has been in here before!
The belt looks OK but is clearly not original but there is just no way to know how old it is... I'm thinking change it in any event just so you know that it has been done.
But wait! What about the oil pump? Has it been changed? Is it a potential time bomb or will our engine be safe?
Well I'm feeling dispicable so you'll have to wait!
Tune in next time to find out.
24th Apr 2021 5:21 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
OK here it is
Looks like the oil pump is a ticking time bomb
I suppose I'll have to look in to changing it, can somebody tell me what's the expected time required to that job?
Now I know it will need an oil pump, I will also do the hpfp belt at the same time and possibly replace the egr's because one of them is playing up and every couple of days I need to reset to turn the engine light off.
For today I am thinking I will look at adjusting the parking brake. It works most of the time but I do have the occasional screeching noise. The discs will need changing but I don't think I can do brakes, egr's, oil pump and belts in one go so it will be a case of each in turn.
I guess that's the joys of motoring Land Rover style! On a more positive note, at least I haven't seen anything that needs welding (yet!).
25th Apr 2021 9:12 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
My journey and the pain continue.
Today I had a go at adjusting the parking brake
Not a bad job at all and quite successful too, no more screeching noises when provoking the EPB so for now that's good.
Meanwhile, it came to my notice the dodgey bloke I bought the car from knows an equally dodgey or perhaps simply incompetent MOT tester. As part of the parking brake adjustment one places a 32mm socket on the stake nut in the middle of the hub and then with a torque wrench, or in my case a breaker bar with a torque gauge attached, rotate the hub to achieve a resistance somewhere between 40Nm and 90Nm. Finding the sweet spot somewhere around 60-65Nm is a bit of a faff but not hard but in my quest for the desired resistance I did lock the hub and it was at this point I noticed the top arm was moving rather more than it should.
I rocked the hub back and fore and sure enough the top arm was wiggling all over the place. Top arm bushes.... completely shot! There is just no way this condition was not present on the date the car was last tested, how can that much play not be discovered? It clearly explains why I recorded in an earlier post that the handling was a bit interesting in that it feels like lift off oversteer going in to left hand corners. Immediately it is obvious the geometry of the rear right wheel is being changed by the worn bushes. Rear steer is nothing new as a concept and certainly it is a noted feature of old beam axle Land Rovers when the radius arm brackets snap/fall off but I wasn't sure how worn bushes might feel with a D3..... Now I know!
So the list of "to do" grows yet again to now include the upper rear arm bushes. The question is though do I remove the arms and just do the bushes or is it quicker/easier and more cost effective to just replace the arms? Should I replace the lower arms as well? Any thoughts, hints,tips or guidance very gratefully received (pleeeeaaaaaasssseeee!)
How long do rear suspension bushes last? I doubt very much they could be original but I was able to see the rear arms (certainly the lower ones) are the original factory fitted items, the factory stickers show the date which corresponds closely to those seen on the rear air strut/bag thing so the arms at least are original.
I know you all like pics, so here are some from today.
1: Park on the ramp, jack it up and get the wheels off.
2:While adjusting parking brake, notice "play" in the offside upper arm, I wonder what that could be?
Do we think this bush is adequate to pass an MOT?
I wonder how old the bushes are? The arms appear to be original!
On the other side, things were a bit better, no notable freeplay.
I'm going to go and sulk now!
25th Apr 2021 1:00 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hiya
just what u don’t need but indeed all the fun of owning a landy
So as u say new oil pump, know when I had my belts replaced had the oil pump done at the same time, plus water pump seeing everything was stripped down
done my rear upper arms, bought new complete arms, along with replacing the drop links and all 6 x brake pipes - hoses at the same time , plus of course I think it’s best to replace upper arms as a pair
Then had the 4 x wheeel Hunter alignment done after , wow, what a difference it made
Disgusting that it’s been able to get past an mot like that , but at least the end of the day it will all be bought back up to full working spec and peace of mind u know it’s been done right
Another worthwhile thing u might consider is, jet wash underneath , then do the entire chassis inside and out with dinitrol , ur looking around £200 , used that when I done mine
Ref the upper arms I bought a bushing removal kit unless u already have one as done the top knuckle bush at the same time
Hope that helps a little , thanks for sharing and awesome pics
25th Apr 2021 4:48 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
I'm still sulking
I can't really do everything at once so I have decided to roll the dice and leave the timing belt and oil pump just now and deal with the upper rear suspension arms and the brake discs, pads and parking brake shoes.
My logic is suspension arms and brakes are rather safety critical and as I don't do many miles, I would prefer to have brakes and reliable handling for the time being.
Hopefully I will do timing belt and oil pump and probably the EGR valves in a couple of months time and before winter sets in and it is too cold to be messing about with engines.
Watch this space!
26th Apr 2021 8:02 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
You know the pump will now fail dont you Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
26th Apr 2021 11:48 am
Wildboy
Member Since: 08 Apr 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 8
I love a build/maintenance thread, be interested to see how you get on with the bushes
27th Apr 2021 8:25 am
DWDG
Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Bedford
Posts: 101
Looks like a nice D3, and if I’m not mistaken that’s also in Lugano Teal which is not a common colour. If so, it has the gold flakes in the paintwork and polishes up beautifully. Really hard to tell from a distance. I had a Buckingham Blue one a couple of years ago and that and the Teal just looks so good on a D3.
2007 Discovery 3 HSE Lugano Teal
2011 BMW 520d Touring Sophisticato Grey
2000 Porsche Boxster 2.7 Arena Red
2002 Porsche 911 3.6 C4 Cabriolet Artic Silver - sold last year
1987 Porsche 944S Black - sold last year
2006 Discovery 3 HSE Buckingham Blue - sold last year
2012 Ford Grand CMax Panther Black (wife’s) wish we’d sold that instead!
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