Member Since: 28 Jan 2022
Location: Jersey
Posts: 5
Heater issue
Picked up my 2010 D4 GS yesterday.
Have an issue with the cabin heating
Passenger side vent by door blows only cold/ambient air.
Passenger side vent by centre console blows only cold/ambient air.
Driver side vent by door blows warm air.
Driver side vent by centre console blows hot air.
Temps for both sides were set the same, no difference when switched from auto to manual control.
Any advice would be welcomed.
30th Jan 2022 8:14 pm
pwheeldon
Member Since: 14 Jan 2020
Location: West Yorks
Posts: 1505
I know that the D3 heater matrix is prone to blocking with similar symptoms, I would imagine the d4 is the same. Might be worth searching for blocked matrix, see what you can find.Discovery 4 GS 2009 Auto Stornoway Grey
Discovery 3 s 2005 Auto Bonatti Grey Gone
Discovery 3 SE 2005 Manual Zambezi Silver Gone
Range Rover Sport HSE 2006 Black
Aston Martin DB7 VV
30th Jan 2022 9:17 pm
JerseyD4
Member Since: 28 Jan 2022
Location: Jersey
Posts: 5
Thanks, had a quick google and sounds like that could very well be the problem.
Hopefully a simple fix.
30th Jan 2022 9:29 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20844
Heater Matrix('s) are very common for blocking up. All the sediment settles in the LH side of the matrix, precent flow of hot coolant though what is used for the passenger side vents
Relatively easy swap on a D3, but D4 is full dash out to replace...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: plymouth
Posts: 6525
would chemical wash clear it...like wat is used in central heating ?
31st Jan 2022 12:49 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14142
I’ve wondered that ref chemicals etc , useto do that sometimes with aluminium heat exchangers
At the time I made up a rig, , consisting of a , pump, inline magnaclean , add chemicals , would then flush it forwards and backwards , however sometimes the matrix would pinhole
However if the pipes enter and exit at the same end will be extremely difficult getting the blockage out , even back flushing them with a hose pipe can get mixed results
I wonder if installing an inline filter screen canister would help , checking it every so often as it catches particles , Only thing is though with some of the clear filter is the flow rate and not being able to take high temperatures
Unless it was purely used separately from the vehicle as part of a rig with a pump, magnaclean and allowing it to circulate in both directions , alas don’t know how effective it would be but suppose cheaper than having to remove the entire dashboard on a D4
Out of curiosity did someone cut one open please
Apologises I’m waffling again
Picture as an example
31st Jan 2022 2:44 am
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6756
I’ve read pretty much every post and article on heater cores in English, American, Russian, Finnish and Swedish. Depending on the nationality of the writer, some have been quite creative with the equipment and fluids they’ve tried to flush it with. Particularly the American and Russian forums have been full of pure creativeness.
Disclaimer: this is NOT advice on what to do. This is (mostly) advice on what NOT to do if you value your vehicle, eyesight, skin, etc. DO read the MSDS documents* - the vendor has to tell you what the magic potion you’re trying to flush with uses as an active ingredient.
What won’t work when the core is in place:
- pulsating back flush with high pressure or “slightly higher than high pressure”. won’t work
- any “radiator cleaner” with citric acid. This is the “generic” stuff like STP (or “Mercedes’ Benz” white labeled). won’t work
- do NOT be creative and try blindly some other acids like sulphuric acid. It”s not good for you, it’s not good for the vehicle and as a side effect it’ll create hydrogen gas. People suggesting this do not seem to have passed a high school chemistry class. Won’t work.
- do NOT think about using hydrochloric acid. Not only is it dangerous to you, also this acid will try to convert any metal to a salt. As a side effect you’ll also get hydrogen gas. NOT what you want unless you’re Russian or American (seen this suggested by both). Won’t work.
- do NOT try a “cocktail” of trisodium phosphate and sodium salts. Exists even as a commercial product. The Na3PO4 will again react with metals. Won’t work.
What will work after you’ve removed the heater core - replace with a new unit
*) no MSDS available for home chemistry methods or “professional Russian cleaner with secret ingredient” type of shops
We now return to our regular banter
31st Jan 2022 10:41 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10689
The problem on these is that the dirt has to be flushed a long way up hill to get out.
And therefore it doesn’t
Some did manage to flush one out the car.
But if they are cheap enough you may as well replace
31st Jan 2022 11:21 pm
kajtzu
Member Since: 10 Aug 2017
Location: Helsinki
Posts: 6756
Yes.
31st Jan 2022 11:28 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14142
kajtzu wrote:
I’ve read pretty much every post and article on heater cores in English, American, Russian, Finnish and Swedish. Depending on the nationality of the writer, some have been quite creative with the equipment and fluids they’ve tried to flush it with. Particularly the American and Russian forums have been full of pure creativeness.
Disclaimer: this is NOT advice on what to do. This is (mostly) advice on what NOT to do if you value your vehicle, eyesight, skin, etc. DO read the MSDS documents* - the vendor has to tell you what the magic potion you’re trying to flush with uses as an active ingredient.
What won’t work when the core is in place:
- pulsating back flush with high pressure or “slightly higher than high pressure”. won’t work
- any “radiator cleaner” with citric acid. This is the “generic” stuff like STP (or “Mercedes’ Benz” white labeled). won’t work
- do NOT be creative and try blindly some other acids like sulphuric acid. It”s not good for you, it’s not good for the vehicle and as a side effect it’ll create hydrogen gas. People suggesting this do not seem to have passed a high school chemistry class. Won’t work.
- do NOT think about using hydrochloric acid. Not only is it dangerous to you, also this acid will try to convert any metal to a salt. As a side effect you’ll also get hydrogen gas. NOT what you want unless you’re Russian or American (seen this suggested by both). Won’t work.
- do NOT try a “cocktail” of trisodium phosphate and sodium salts. Exists even as a commercial product. The Na3PO4 will again react with metals. Won’t work.
What will work after you’ve removed the heater core - replace with a new unit
*) no MSDS available for home chemistry methods or “professional Russian cleaner with secret ingredient” type of shops
We now return to our regular banter
Brilliant post mate
As a side note , saw this video a little while ago and to be honest never seen one of those guns before
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