sr4x4
Member Since: 04 Jul 2021
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 43
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| Suspension Fault - Normal Height Only |
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Hi,
Have a niggling issue with my D3. I keep getting the “Suspension Fault Normal Height Only” error message on the dash.
Previously has been fine, and only just started today.
When I switch off and restart I can get it up into off road suspension height, so I’m assuming this can’t be compressor related. I haven’t got a code reader, just wondering if it might just need the fault code wiping from the suspension ECU and back to business as usual?
Also got to change a front wheel bearing due to play, does anyone know if this could this be a factor in the suspension fault message I’m getting on the screen?
Any help/advice will be greatly appreciated!
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 30th May 2022 5:51 pm |
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nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4220
  
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You need to get the codes read and then posted up on here as there are lots of different reasons for that message... could even be that the battery is not charging properly !!! I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
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| 30th May 2022 6:02 pm |
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sr4x4
Member Since: 04 Jul 2021
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 43
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Thanks for your reply.
I’m thinking it would be a good idea to get a hold of a faulty code reader, any recommendations?
Would a symptom of a battery not charging/holding enough charge also be the error message “special programmes off” as I have previously had this when starting from very cold/damp in the mornings?
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| 30th May 2022 6:17 pm |
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nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4220
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The recommended one on here is the GAP IID tool (BT version) but a cheaper option is the Autel AP200 (white), can't do as much with the Autel but certainly a good start... the IID will pay for itself many times over 
If you are getting that message on cold damp mornings then it's a very good chance it is the battery (these beasts are very voltage sensitive)... so might also be good to invest in trickle charger if it's being left for long periods or get the battery checked out to see if it's holding the correct voltage...
Let us know how you get on ! It might be worth doing a shout out to see if anyone in your area has an IID and would be willing to read the codes for some beer tokens  I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
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| 30th May 2022 6:27 pm |
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sr4x4
Member Since: 04 Jul 2021
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 43
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It’s never stood for more than a couple of days. So could be the battery not holding correct voltage, but does start ok, apart from on very very cold mornings where it’s taken a second try to fully fire up!
I’ll certainly see if anyone’s got a code reader in the area. Is there a regional section on here?
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| 30th May 2022 6:35 pm |
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nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4220
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No regional section I'm afraid but a shout out to those in the Notts area may prove lucky... I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
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| 30th May 2022 6:39 pm |
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nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4220
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This might help..
https://disco3.co.uk/forum/atlas.php?mode=viewmap I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
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| 30th May 2022 6:40 pm |
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sr4x4
Member Since: 04 Jul 2021
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 43
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That’s brill - thank you 
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| 30th May 2022 6:58 pm |
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sr4x4
Member Since: 04 Jul 2021
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 43
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Update:
I’ve been able to test by the battery, and it’s showing 12.3v with the engine off, and 14.5v when the engine is on and charging the battery.
My local garage was also able to read the faults on their machine when they changed the front wheel bearing, this has revealed the following codes for the suspension; U0132 - communication with dynamic suspension system/level control - missing message, and also C1A20 - unknown fault.
I’ve sprayed soapy water around the exposed parts of the air reservoir, and cants see any evidence of a leak from there. Also taken the cover off the compressor, no signs of anything a miss there, all works ok until the fault code shuts it down. While I had the covers off I sprayed a little soapy water on the end of the air dryer where the two pipes go in, and no leaking from there.
From the dash I still get the message message, suspension fault normal height only, after about 2-3 minutes of driving. But now if I try to raise to off road height the rear suspension goes up fairly quickly, however the front is either very slow, and I get the vehicle raising slowly message, or nothing happens at all and the amber suspension fault light comes on.
Has anyone got any ideas or experience that might help with fixing this.
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| 13th Jun 2022 6:57 pm |
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sr4x4
Member Since: 04 Jul 2021
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 43
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Also not sure if it’s worth noting or not, but the last few times that I was able to raise the suspension, which was on flat ground (tarmac drive), it gave the message that it was in extended mode and to reset or re calibrate the suspension when clear of obstacle (which there wasn’t as it was flat tarmac under the vehicle!).
So this is making me think that everything could be down to a suspension sensor? Maybe one of the front ones?! Does anyone know how I work out which one needs replacing or will both need to be replaced together as a pair?
Thanks in advance
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| 14th Jun 2022 7:12 am |
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Grumpydog
Member Since: 10 Apr 2019
Location: Medway/ Mos Eisley
Posts: 162
  
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C1A20 is pressure too slow to build. Could be a lot of things, sticky exhaust valve on the compressor, worn compressor, air leak somewhere, pressure sensor fault....
The reservoir is prone to rusting but is a pig to get to and check. I don't think there are any test points where you could attach an external gauge (I could be wrong here but I haven't found any yet).
If the rear is going up but not the front, I would be inclined to search there.
Give me an air system on a HGV any day of the week over these things. There's a lot more running off it but so much easier to diagnose. 2004 Disco 3 HSE TDV6
2015 Audi Q5 S Line plus
2008 Audi A4 Avant S Line Black Edition. Gone
2005 Chrysler Grand Voyger. Gone
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| 14th Jun 2022 9:08 am |
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stick
Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: hants
Posts: 601
 
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Did you ever solve this?
I have the same problem, but no fault codes.
I wonder if the battery, as seems worse when cold or first start of the day, but replaced it 2 years ago. 133k 2015 d4.
Have done 600 mile drive from Switzerland yesterday so should be charged, but still did it today. d4 HSE
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| 16th Jan 2023 1:51 pm |
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ekwan
Member Since: 24 Apr 2016
Location: P Jaya
Posts: 34
  
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Grumpydog wrote:C1A20 is pressure too slow to build. Could be a lot of things, sticky exhaust valve on the compressor, worn compressor, air leak somewhere, pressure sensor fault....
The reservoir is prone to rusting but is a pig to get to and check. I don't think there are any test points where you could attach an external gauge (I could be wrong here but I haven't found any yet).
If the rear is going up but not the front, I would be inclined to search there.
Give me an air system on a HGV any day of the week over these things. There's a lot more running off it but so much easier to diagnose.
It is one of 3 things normally if you cannot find any external leaks at the pipe joints.
Leaking reservoir: Crack the pipe joint at the reservoir. If there is no escaping air, good bet it's a leaking reservoir.
Bad gallery pressure sensor: You need a diagnostic tester to see how the pressure increases when the pump is running. If the gallery pressure does not increase when the pump is running, it's a dead sensor (or associated sensor wiring).
Bad pump: Usually if all else fails, this is the case especially if the car has covered high mileage. This also includes a failed exhaust valve which is part of the pump.
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| 16th Jan 2023 3:15 pm |
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CDS
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Member Since: 12 Oct 2009
Location: All over the UK!
Posts: 3333
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Which code reader are you using sticks?
Most of the generic code readers can’t access the suspension ECU and it’s fault codes
Discovery 3/4 & RRS keys cut and programmed at your home or work
Apple CarPlay/ Android Auto retro fit - see it here
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blanking
Software updates/ enabling
Mobile Servicing & Repairs
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| 16th Jan 2023 3:55 pm |
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stick
Member Since: 13 Jan 2010
Location: hants
Posts: 601
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Quote:It is one of 3 things normally if you cannot find any external leaks at the pipe joints
Thing is, if I restart then normally it wont do it, so I thought it might not be the compressor and pipework?
Quote:
Which code reader are you using sticks?
I took it to my local Indy and they read the codes and couldnt see anything, so I dont know what sort d4 HSE
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| 16th Jan 2023 4:37 pm |
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