Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4520
Project for this week - New Clutch!
Got some new stuff to fit!
Click image to enlarge
Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
Last edited by rrhool on 7th Jul 2022 1:53 am. Edited 1 time in total
27th Jun 2022 8:39 pm
nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4244
Shiny shiny !
That looks like fun need lots of photos I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
27th Jun 2022 9:26 pm
Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
Don't forget new DMF to crank and pressure plate bolts!
Clutch spline grease is recommended too.
you *should* replace the driveshaft bolts, threadlock is cheaper though.
27th Jun 2022 9:26 pm
will.i.am
Member Since: 05 May 2016
Location: hertfordshire
Posts: 250
will you do crossover pipe whilst gearbox is out?
28th Jun 2022 10:21 am
nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4244
What's the mileage on your car now Rich ? Just wondering if mine might be heading towards a similar replacement I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
28th Jun 2022 10:57 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4520
will.i.am wrote:
will you do crossover pipe whilst gearbox is out?
Hadn't planned to I will give it a thorough check while I'm in there.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
28th Jun 2022 11:00 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4520
nigethecat wrote:
What's the mileage on your car now Rich ? Just wondering if mine might be heading towards a similar replacement
154,000 miles. I got the car at 90k, just after it had had a new clutch. The previous owner was heavy on clutches and had 3 in 90K miles!
I've said in other threads, I'm not convinced there's anything wrong with mine now, but it has slipped, occasionally, for 7 years. It slipped in April when I was towing my trailer (not particularly heavy) but in May we went away with the caravan, and no slip at all.
I don't think the friction plate is worn out, I think it's most likely the concentric slave cylinder that is the issue. But if I'm going in there, I only want to do it once, so new clutch is appropriate.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
28th Jun 2022 11:05 am
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4520
When I take the gearbox off, will the engine be stable on its mounts, or do I need additional support?Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
Think I'd support it regardless so there are no sudden movements as the two separate.
4th Jul 2022 1:07 pm
latnutgub
Member Since: 25 Aug 2011
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 170
I removed the Tbox to make handling the Gbox easier. Also gets you better access to the top bellhouse bolts. A good selection of 3/8 long extensions necessary.
4th Jul 2022 9:03 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4520
Did you support the engine, or was it stable enough?Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
4th Jul 2022 9:10 pm
Flatlander
Member Since: 20 Jul 2015
Location: Here
Posts: 575
The engine will be stable enough, just make sure you remove the viscous fan (and top cowl to access it) to prevent any stress on it whilst you have the engine and transmission at an angle - you'll need to do that to remove the crossover pipe brackets. Lower the back of the gearbox to access the top transfer box bolts and the top bellhousing bolts, bring it back to level again to pull the gearbox rearwards, enough to clear the input shaft, then straight down.
4th Jul 2022 9:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
You should normally see an intermittent fault code {transfer box calibration) if the clutch was slipping, although this is not always the case.
As already advised use ONLY new bolts on the flywheel AND for the drive shafts. Used bolts will very likely snap as you approach the required torque value, and then you're in a whole heap of trouble.
If you don't have access to a lift it will take a lot of the pain out by splitting the box. {extremely heavy and unbalanced otherwise!!)
If you look at the new DMF you will see that there is a small amount of free rotational play between the mounting plate and the friction plate of about 10mm, this is normal. There will be no lateral movement or play, however on the old DMF if there is lateral movement between the friction plate and the mounting plate that's where you're trouble is likely to have been, notwithstanding any wear on the friction surfaces themselves.
Take care around the pipework and connections to the slave cylinder and have replacement clips to hand before you disassemble. There is also a circlip at the rear of the linkage assy which you will need to remove to separate from the transmission. It would be wise to replace this as if it weakens there is a real chance it will fail later on leaving you with no ability to select gears! Make sure you have removed the loom completely from all the electrical connections including the hidden XYZ switch on top of the gearbox!
There are two breather pipes which run under the crossover pipe, one from the gearbox, and one from the transfer box. The transfer box is easy to disconnect and the gearbox one can be pulled off from it's location just to the right of the XYZ switch. Be careful though when reassembling that you don't foul the bell housing on the pipes. Once the transmission is out remove the XYZ switch and clean it with brake cleaner then put it back.
On the high pressure side of the hydraulics there is a vibration damper fitted inline, and it is from here that the flexi pipe is taken from. I have never had to replace this or the flexi pipe, but just be aware of it. The damper is mounted up inside the tunnel on the right hand side.
Bleeding this system can be a real pig. Or, you can be lucky first time, either way you will likely need an assistant even with the assistance of a pressure bleeder! The clutch pedal will not want to return once it is depressed if the high pressure bleed nipple is open. Your assistant will have to use their foot to pull it back up as well as depressing it. This action can pull any air in the pipework back up the line if the nipple is open causing you no end of grief in successful bleeding. You won't be popular for giving them this task but a pressure bleeder is a must in my opinion to get the air out. Even if you have clamped the flexi pipe which I strongly advise you to do. Try and get out what you can with a pressure bleeder and after that it will be trial and error but always keep the bleeder full of fluid. You will need a bleed line that can snugly fit over the nipple on the slave, otherwise you better do it in your birthday suit.
So be prepared for a lot of fluid recycling once the first batch from the master cyl has been discharged and disposed of.
The engine will not need any support, but if you are not using a lift you will need to remove the fan just in case the angle causes the fan to foul on the radiator. If you are using a lift but do not have a suitable transmission jack a set of small ratchet straps will give you "breathing space" and some security whilst removing the crossmember. They can be swung over the legs of the lift and under the gearbox. Remember, this is a very heavy transmission and it will try to rotate if the transfer box is left in place. If you have a lift you can do it without splitting using the straps method or correct transmission jack. If not don't chance it Richard, split it and you can then still use straps to help secure the box by swinging them over the chassis rails. This will allow the box to be swung forwards or backwards. Once swung back you can tie it off allowing you the space to get in and remove the clutch. But do it thoroughly, you don't want a heavy transmission suddenly swinging forwards while you head is in it's path!! Alternatively just remove it completely.
Good luck!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Jul 2022 1:12 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4520
Thanks Prof, lots of good info there
I have had the clutch slip errors in the past (5 years or more ago) but not recently. I'm still don't think I'll find a worn friction plate, more likely a slave with a ridge in the operation, or the DMf (or both).
Going to put the car up tonight and make a slow methodical start. I've got some time to do it, so I'm in no rush.Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
5th Jul 2022 1:18 pm
rrhool
Member Since: 28 Aug 2014
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 4520
Last night I removed the prop shafts, cross member, heat shields, wiring loom, interior trim & gear knob.
Click image to enlarge
This morning I've got the transfer box off.
Click image to enlarge
Just doing battle with the crossover pipe brackets!! This job really wasn't intended to be done from under the car!! Richard
D3 SE 2007. Triumph 2.5Pi 1973. Ferguson TEA20 1948.
Discovery 2 4.0 ES 2001- Gone
Discovery 1 300Tdi ES '95 - Gone
Range Rover Classic '79 - Gone
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
need lots of photos 
I will give it a thorough check while I'm in there.
This action can pull any air in the pipework back up the line if the nipple is open causing you no end of grief in successful bleeding. You won't be popular for giving them this task but a pressure bleeder is a must in my opinion to get the air out. Even if you have clamped the flexi pipe which I strongly advise you to do. Try and get out what you can with a pressure bleeder and after that it will be trial and error but always keep the bleeder full of fluid. You will need a bleed line that can snugly fit over the nipple on the slave, otherwise you better do it in your birthday suit. 
