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Problem with DSC after steering link change?
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Satamax
 


Member Since: 14 Jul 2020
Location: Frankreich.
Posts: 34

France 
Problem with DSC after steering link change?

Hi everybody.

Well, i changed the steering links. Pretty sure the angles are not right. The vehicle pull to one side. I don't want to get it adjusted till i have done the rear upper arm bushings. Waiting for the proper tool.

But when i turn to the right, in some curves, the dsc activates, and brakes the outside wheel, or wheels. Only on the way down; i live in a mountain valley. When i come back up to my village, it doesn't do it. Mind you it's rather flat, 200/300m elevation change over 15km.

Does this seem normal? Or i might have done some more damage. When i lifted the car , and rested it on wooden blocks, on the engine protection, on the left hand side, to do the work. I heard a big cracking.

I also had suspension problems, because i had to lift the car rather high to do the work.

Any help is welcome.

Thanks guys.
  
Post #234337326th Jul 2023 5:12 pm
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PROFSR G
 


Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5018

Ukraine 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

New parts incorrectly assembled so it's likely you have knocked out the steering angle calibration.

Exactly what steering components did you replace, track rod ends?
 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 
 
Post #234338026th Jul 2023 6:10 pm
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Satamax
 


Member Since: 14 Jul 2020
Location: Frankreich.
Posts: 34

France 

Thanks a lot for the reply PROFSR G.

Tie rods and track rod ends. The whole parts from the power steering to the wheel hub. From Meyle. The wheel is angled, so something is off.

Thanks for the reply.
  
Post #234340526th Jul 2023 9:01 pm
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PROFSR G
 


Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5018

Ukraine 2009 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial XS Auto Stornoway GreyDiscovery 3

The track rod ends need to be fitted to the new rods in exactly the same position on the old ones were removed. Do this by unscrewing each old track rod end and counting the exact number of turns it takes to remove. Typically this would be something like 20.5 to about 23.5 turns.

Then with the new lock nut spun up the rod you simply add the new track rod end to the exact number of turns as the old one removed. This should leave you with a very close toe geometry, and only needing very minor final adjustments.
But, if you have replaced the arms this will obviously no longer be reliable and
full alignment will be needed.

I would add that this is a very heavy vehicle and its engine protection plate was never intended as a jacking point. Chassis rail only and adittional support via axle stands always!

Given your comment regarding jacking height and cracking noises you're perhaps lucky it did not fall on you.
 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ

 
 
Post #234341026th Jul 2023 10:10 pm
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