My car is a left hand drive 2008 (2009 model year) Discovery 3. It has the Euro 4 pump.
I think this procedure for changing the pump should be almost identical for the earlier Discovery and probably also for the Discovery 4.
You will need:
• New pump. I bought mine from Maltings in Doncaster www.maltingsoffroad.co.uk who had the best price at the time for a VDO pump.
• New belt and tensioner.
• 17mm spanner for high pressure connections to pump and rail.
• 8mm spanner /socket to remove clip holding part of loom to the belt cover.
• 10mm spanner socket for nearly everything else, including the 2 front bolts on the pump.
• T45 Torx key, ideally with a slim ratchet drive or spanner.
• Magnet to retrieve the things you drop…
This is how the engine bay looked at the beginning. The Schrader valve (looks like a tyre valve) is just above the front of the pump.
I started by disconnected the low pressure plastic pipes which connect to the pump / another pipes which connects to the pump. Push in the coloured tab on the connector and slide them off. Put them somewhere safe and clean! You can see two of them rotated out of the way in the photo below.
There is a steel pipe that runs across the back of the engine and above the pump. It is help in place by one bracket with 2 bolts. See 3 photos below.
Remove the bolts and undo the spring clips (I used mole grips to squeeze the tabs on the clips together) holding the rubber hoses onto each end of the pipe.
Slide clips off the hose and onto the pipe, remove the hoses. You will lose a little bit of coolant at this point.
Remove the steel pipe, taking care not to drop the clips.
Click image to enlarge
Next I removed the remaining low pressure pipe connected to the pump and the electrical connector to the front of the pump. See 2 photos below.
Click image to enlarge
Remove the rubber pipe which pushes onto the crankcase breather assembly (just behind the oil filter) at one end and onto the cam cover on the other end. There are 2 of these, one for each bank of the V.
Click image to enlarge
Next remove the oil filter assembly. Put it in a clean, safe place.
Put a cloth in the filter housing to stop dirt or anything else falling in there.
The next part was the most difficult – to remove the crankcase breather assembly.
See photo below to see the piece after it has been removed. After you remove a rubber pipe that connects to the stub at the back of it (arrowed in photo), it lifts straight up from its location. Getting it fully out is a different matter. The top of the assembly hits the underside of the back of the engine bay. There is a ‘lid’ on the tip of the assembly towards driver’s side. I removed this (takes a bit of faffing around) and the diaphragm and spring inside to give a bit more clearance. See second photo below. It also clashes with the LH cam cover. However, with a bit a jiggling and slightly bending various bits of plastics it does come out. Probably would be easier if the cam cover was removed.
Click image to enlarge
With the breather assembly out of the way, the pump and 2 front 10mm fixing bolts are visible.
Thinking about it now, they might be accessible with breather removed from its position, but not fully removed.
Loosen both bolts, but don’t remove yet. Note that that the bolts pass through a dowel (red arrow in photo), which will need to be pushed back a bit from the pump to allow some clearance to get it out. I pushed the dowels back at the stage before the bolts were removed.
Next step is to move to the back of the engine to remove the fuel pump drive belt and tensioner. Follow the steps in this post to do this:[url] https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/tdv6-timing-belt-53674.html[/url]
Then remove the top part of the belt cover that is between the pump body and the pulley. This will eventually allow you to lift the pump up and out.
Click image to enlarge
Next step is to remove the high-pressure pipe between the pump and the fuel rail on the RH bank (as you look at the engine from the front). There is a 17mm nut at each end of the pipe and a clip roughly half way along the pipe. Put the pipe where it will be safe and clean.
Disconnect the pipe for the other bank from the pump only.
Next step is to remove the 2 torx screws at the back of the pump.
First, look at this photo of the pump (removed) with pulley on and the torx screws in place so you can see them to understand where the screws are.
I took the next photo with the pump still in-situ, torx screws arrowed and circled.
It does look from the photo that it is not possible to get past the pulley to reach them, but it is, refer to the previous photo.
I used a T45 torx bit with a 10mm spanner to turn it. Later I found a slip ratchet spanner to turn the bit so I didn’t have to remove and refit it for every turn.
It is worthwhile taping the bit to the spanner – with insulating tape or a bit of bluetac.
The RH screw as you look at the photo about is relatively easy to access. The other one is a bit more difficult because the pulley is in the way. I used an offset ring spanner on the torx bit for that one.
Fortunately it doesn’t take many turns with the spanner until the screw is loose enough to remove by hand.
After loosening both screws, remove them carefully (one at a time) and put them somewhere safe.
Then remove the 2 hex head bolts at the front of the pump that you loosened earlier.
Remove pump!
Next step is to remove the pulley to transfer it to new pump.
The nut was quite tight on mine. I put the pulley in my vice between 2 pieces of wood so as not to damage the pulley.
I repeated this process to tighten the pulley on the new pump, torqued it to 50Nm.
I put some Loctite on the thread.
Re-fitting is a reverse of the removal procedure.
I fitted the front bolts on the pump first and tightened them just enough to hold the pump, but still leaving some play to help with the fitting of the torx screws at the back of the pump.
Nothing in particular to say about the refit, except keep everything clean and keep the protective covers on the pipe connections on the new pump until you are ready to fit the various pipes.
Take plenty of photos before you start and stick some masking tape on the low pressure pipes and write on there where the pipe connects.
Don’t forget to remove whatever you placed in the oil filter housing and to refit the oil filter!
After refitting everything, I switched ignition on and off several times to allow LPFP to prime the system before trying to start the engine.
It still took a few turns before it fired, but since then has started normally.
Hopefully the new pump will solve my problem.
Hope this is useful.
If anyone has done it differently or has anything to add or correct in this post please do!Bentley 8
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15th Nov 2020 5:09 pm
ClassikFan
Member Since: 02 Nov 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1047
good job!Just 'cause you got the power... that don't mean you got the right.
16th Nov 2020 8:24 pm
Wilki62
Member Since: 26 Dec 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 7
Thanks for the post French Collection, this was really helpful and gave me the confidence to get stuck in and replace the HPFP on my D3.
Problems started for me with the usual fault codes indicating fuel pressure issues - LPFP was replaced and everything was good for about a week (with the pump now considerably quieter), before the limp home started kicking in again.
Sourced a recon pump.
Everything went well with the change until the crankcase breather removal, which as you say was tricky. I tried following your suggestion that the pump may come out without having to remove the breather assembly completely. Unfortunately, I don't think this is possible and found the following process allowed removal of the assembly with only minor aggro -
1. Disconnect the rubber pipe from the back of the breather top and make sure the pipe is tucked out of the way once disconnected. Don't let this pipe get between the breather assembly and the bulkhead, when trying to get the breather out, as its enough to make the process a pain.
2. Undo the steel HP fuel pipe (l/h fuel rail) from the top of the HPFP and tape/seal the pipe end and pump pipe seat.
3. Gently push the swan neck of the steel HP fuel pipe back and down slightly behind the HPFP body. The swan neck of the HP pipe seems to be the main restriction when trying to get the crankcase breather into a position to extract it.
4. Take the breather assembly (already released from block and locating pin) turn it to about five minutes to five, as per clock face, tilt and push towards the bulkhead lifting at the same time. The breather assembly should clear the head cover and come virtually straight out. I found that if the glow plug wiring harness / connection plates are disconnected from the glow plugs before trying to remove it, this allows a little more wiggle room for the breather.
5. A word of warning when wrestling the crankcase breather out - my D3 is 14 years old (151k miles) and I found that the plastic flexible trunking that goes around all sorts of wiring in the engine bay has become very brittle. This results in the trunking breaking into small pieces very easily when touched. These can then drop into / onto various parts of the engine in the area you are trying to work in. I suggest that plugs of cloth are used to seal the three breather holes in the engine, in addition to covering the oil filter housing, before attempting the final removal of the crankcase breather, to avoid small bits of plastic trunking disappearing inside the engine.
Other suggestions:
1.To remove the torx head bolt (that is closest to the metal breather pipe) holding the back of the HPFP to the fuel pump carrier frame I found using blu tak to hold the torx bit into the socket worked well.
2.When re-fitting the fuel pump drive belt I left the removable plastic cover section off (held in place by two bolts) until after the belt was fitted, as this allows slightly easier access to check the belt / tensioner is correctly fitted.
I renewed the bolts and sleeves that hold the HPFP to the pump carrier, and also the nut that holds the drive sprocket to the HPFP spindle. Price for the whole lot from the local main dealer was £10 inc VAT.
If anybody is interested part numbers are:
LLR002806 sprocket nut
LLR008150 bolts and sleeves for the radiator side of the pump
LLR004693 torx head bolts for bulkhead side of the pump
Hope this helps.
Thanks again French Connection for your original post.
Last edited by Wilki62 on 4th Jul 2023 9:55 pm. Edited 1 time in total
26th Dec 2021 9:41 pm
kdebnath
Member Since: 29 Apr 2022
Location: Calcutta
Posts: 4
@French collection,
Can you provide the part number for the VDO pump for EU4 Disco 3? I'm a confusion about which one will fit?
A2C59513482 or a2c1283180085.
Kindly advice
2nd Jul 2022 8:10 pm
ale21.civ
Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Bologna
Posts: 97
Exactly which are the parts I have to order for doing this job? Thanks so much
14th Oct 2022 7:17 am
dutchviking
Member Since: 07 Oct 2011
Location: Oslo
Posts: 61
A2C59513482 is equivalent to LR017367 and is suitable for 2007 (EU4) and later.
A2C59511314 is equivalent to LR005958 and is suitable for 2005-2006 (EU2).
1st Feb 2023 5:17 pm
ale21.civ
Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Bologna
Posts: 97
I have found a VDO pump code A2C20003282 but I’m not sure that can fit in my Discovery 3 2007 euro 4. Somebody may help me? Thanks so much!!
1st Jun 2023 10:28 am
kdebnath
Member Since: 29 Apr 2022
Location: Calcutta
Posts: 4
Hello @ ale21.civ,
The part number for VDO pump is A2C59513482 for Disco 3 Euro 4 Models. Kindly check the vehicle data card. I think Euro 4 was introduced in 2009, if I'm not wrong. You can also confirm EU -4 models by locating a sensor on the end of right side of the common rail for injectors.
3rd Jun 2023 4:35 pm
ale21.civ
Member Since: 16 Apr 2018
Location: Bologna
Posts: 97
Which are the codes of belt and tensioner for hpfp?
7th Jun 2023 1:54 pm
PerthDisco
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
Are we talking snug or super tight when tightening the fuel line fittings? I assume everyone is tightening by hand and not torque wrench?
Also - reusing the old fuel line fittings is OK. No one has had problems later?
Thanks for the guide.
29th Nov 2023 5:21 am
Wilki62
Member Since: 26 Dec 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 7
Snug is the way I went when re-connecting the fuel pipes to the HPFP, but do counter hold the fittings you are doing up into. If you first do up by hand at either end of the fuel pipe, before snugging down, this will allow the pipes to seat in the best position.
I have unfortunately suffered having to replace the HPFP four times in short succession due to warranty faults with the first three pumps supplied. I used the original fuel pipes for the first three changes, but felt that a fourth time was asking too much considering the high operating pressures involved, and replaced with brand new pipes. Purists would change pipes any time the connection is broken to remove a pipe, and I'm fairly certain the main dealers would be looking to do that.
Hope this helps.
29th Nov 2023 1:53 pm
PerthDisco
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
Many thanks for that counterhold tip Wilki62
You must be an expert on removing the crank breather part also. Any tips there?
Do you remove the intake Y or leave that in place as I'm trying to streamline the process as much as possible.
Is removing the locator stud for the crankcase oil seperator on the oil cooler essential once you've got it out of the way?
Did you install a brand new belt and tensioner each time or develop a way to remove and reuse? Only because I only replaced my belt and tensioner less than two years ago using the cut-off method of the old belt to not damage the tensioner thread when undoing the bolt.
30th Nov 2023 12:03 am
Wilki62
Member Since: 26 Dec 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 7
For the crank case breather I found the easiest way (on the fourth time of changing) was to remove the fuel pipe from the top of the pump and the common rail. I was changing the pipe anyway, but if you're not going to its still worth taking the pipe out of the way to give you maximum room to get the crankcase breather out. Take the rubber pipe off the top of the breather first and make sure that's right out of the way as you need to tilt the breather back until it touches the bulkhead to get it out. If you lift the assembly up so the legs and locating pin socket are clear of the block, turn to about five to five as per a clock face and tilt backwards it should come out. Cant emphasise enough you need to watch for any debris that gets near the openings for the breather legs in the block. You will probably find it easier if you pop the glow plug harness off as well before removing the breather.
Yes, I removed the intake Y to get as much space for accessing glow plug harnesses and the pump itself. You may find the seals have gone brittle / cracked on removal. The engine on our vehicle had done ~160000 miles when I started replacing the pump and I chose to replace them first time around.
From memory the locator stud is part of the oil cooler, so is not removable
I replaced the belt and tensioner each time. The first two changes were required anyway due to fuel leaking from the HPFP spindle getting all over the belts, and I did it each time after that as the vehicle is used for hauling farm animals, and we tend to try and run on preventative maintenance to avoid unwanted stops at the side of the road.
As a precaution, I also changed the oil and filter each time.
3rd Dec 2023 1:08 am
PerthDisco
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
Completed this today with great help of this guide.
Seemingly leak free and running well.
The only complication for me was getting out the hpfp mounting bolts.
You absolutely need the tool described to ratchet spanner out the T45 bolts at the back which were well loctited and difficult all the way on mine.
The other side was also difficult the loctited bolts undid the hex extensions from the hpfp. One side I could get a 15mm onto it, the other side I wound out till it bound on the frame to undo the bolt all the way but then it was so tight I could not remove hpfp. I had to wind back in the bolt all the way to turn the hex again then wedge it and remove the loctite free bolt.
290,000kms
An hour lost in head scratching there.
I was lucky to find a brand new hpfp which took a lot of searching. Most shops now only offer reman but as per Fabian's experience on LRTime it does not seem the PCV or VCV is replaced which is usually the problem causing replacement. Everyone has new ones on back order with no time for when they are available from VDO / Continental
Thanks
20th Jan 2024 3:51 am
Wilki62
Member Since: 26 Dec 2021
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 7
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good job!
