Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
fogaff wrote:
OK, I have checked that the bolt I was connecting the jump lead to was OK and it was.
I have tested the voltage at the battery again and it is now reading 2.2v. I'm sure it was 2.8v earlier this afternoon. That seems worrying.
Even if the battery is only 2.2v now, I was getting 13.5v when jumping so that rules out a weak battery, no?
Do the brake lights come on with the key on but the engine not running? Mine are not. Does this point to the brake switch that causes a raft of odd problems?
Hi just quickly before reading through the rest I assume u mean 12.2 and no 2.2vdc, sorry was just double checking
Must confess I’ve never seen so many faults after being cleared , know there are other far more knowledgeable members when it comes to multiple electrical errors
Indeed far as I know the brake lights should come on when the brake pedal is pushed
Last edited by gstuart on 22nd Apr 2024 7:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total
22nd Apr 2024 7:17 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
SpiderBaby wrote:
Long shot but have you checked the alternator hasn't popped?
I had similar issues - no warning just started with "F" on dash then a whole load of faults, Tried a spare battery that started the car but the duff alternator killed that as well.
Easy enough to check.
Great point ref the alternator
22nd Apr 2024 7:18 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
fogaff wrote:
gstuart wrote:
If u do have to test the cabin fuses behind the glovebox as a tip get 2 x cable ties and use them on the probes as per the picture to make life easier for your self
Hope it’s useful to u
Click image to enlarge
That's a great tip. I will do that and check those when it's not about to pour with rain outside.
Ur so welcome , indeed would check all the fuses behind the glove box, would be really surprised if some haven’t popped with all those errors
Assume u also checked the larger fuses in the engine bay
Also strange the date is wrong on the gap , indeed wonder if something has been spiked causing all those errors , plse let us know how u get on with the fuses
17-05-2028 16:19:57 at 197301 mi )
22nd Apr 2024 7:21 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
Wonder if it would be worth taking off the alternator cable , then clearing codes then rescanning
22nd Apr 2024 7:26 pm
fogaff
Member Since: 21 Jul 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32
OK, I hadn't actually noticed the incorrect date. Well spotted.
I will check all fueses in the car, including the big ones and the glove box ones. I did notice one of the big fuses didn't have it's plastic lid on. I think it was relating to the air suspension and the local specialist had been working on that for me some months ago. Am I right to assume that the plastic lid being missing doesn't affect the operation of the fuse? Can't see how it would. Or may it have popped off if it blew? It looked OK but I will check again tomorrow.
If the brake lights should come on when the ingition is turned on but not engine running then that points to something not being right as my brake lights definitely don't come on. I'll see if I can get a brake switch from somewhere local tomorrow. Fingers crossed. I will also see if other lights work. Pretty sure they do.
Then, if that's not is, I will investigate the alternator.2005 Disco 3 TDV6 SE Auto Bonatti Grey
185k and counting
22nd Apr 2024 8:09 pm
fogaff
Member Since: 21 Jul 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32
I'm still going through things with the D3.
I have a brake switch coming tomorrow which I'll fit and hope for the best.
I have noticed that the little flashing red light on the dash doesn't turn off when I turn the key to attempt to start. I'm thinking it should. It feels like the immobiliser is immobilising when it shouldn't be.
So could this mean:
1. Alternator bad as already suggested
2. Power Control Module bad
3. Power Control Module monitor fuse bad
4. Immobiliser bad
??
1. Do I need to unplug the alternator at the alternator end? In which case how difficult is it to get to? Or is there a connection that's more accessible?
2 and 3. I've read that this could.be the cause. Where is the PCM and this fuse that I hear about. Is it inline or one of the 'normal' fuses?
4. Apparently this would be expensive? I'm hoping it's not the reason and if the immobiliser is not disabling itself, could it just be a.redult.of something further upstream?
I have also had my battery on charge and will leave it overnight. It's got 13 volts or so now so I will refit that, although I think that scenario if covered by using a jump vehicle.
Thanks for your help 👍2005 Disco 3 TDV6 SE Auto Bonatti Grey
185k and counting
23rd Apr 2024 6:47 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
Hi
I’m just trying to find some pics to double check if u can remove the large cable from the positive battery post and just keep the one that goes to the glove box
Ref the red immobiliser light, do u happen to have another key plse as far as I remember after i unlock mine the red light goes out , as I assume if that stays on it will stop the starter from turning
Out of curiosity have u checked both sills internally under the door trim to ensure there’s no water in them plse
Will find those pictures I’m sure I’ve got of the positive battery post and report back for u as indeed would save a lot of hassle if that’s possible
Also will be good to know if any of the fuse inside are ok or not but of course only when u get chance
24th Apr 2024 1:54 pm
fogaff
Member Since: 21 Jul 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32
Thanks very much for taking the time to do that.
I have checked all the fuses and all are ok. There were some very tricky to access ones in the cabin compartment but I think I've got to them all.
Will check for water seepage as you say.
Just to confirm, is the immobiliser light the one that is not part of the dash? It's the left one of a pair underneath the main instruments on the left?
I have changed the brake switch and no change.
I have disconnected the capacitor on the gearbox that I read about on other posts. No change.
There is a fault I noticed that was referring to the PCM. I have read about a fuse that can get blown for the PCM but am I right on thinking that it would be in the engine or cabin fuse boards?
It feels to me like the car reacted badly to me trying to start it with a duff battery, as it started once and then failed when I tried a second time.
I will check the brake lights also but they all work. I think they are LEDs anyway. Or would they cause a problem? They don't 'blow' as such. I was wrong that they weren't working with the ignition on and engine not running. I think I was at the wrong angle to see properly.
Cheers,
Ollie2005 Disco 3 TDV6 SE Auto Bonatti Grey
185k and counting
24th Apr 2024 2:12 pm
fogaff
Member Since: 21 Jul 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32
And I do have another key but am pretty sure the immobiliser light stayed on with both. I'll double check when I get home from work though.2005 Disco 3 TDV6 SE Auto Bonatti Grey
185k and counting
24th Apr 2024 2:13 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
Apologises as it looks like that main cable can’t be separated from the positive battery terminal clamp, know u can get different types of battery post clamps , also wonder if someone else more knowledgeable than myself if that would help by disconnecting that large positive cable and to then retest with the gap iid tool plse
I wonder if a canbus test would show anything , I’ve noted it here as I done the same on mine using a multimeter
Really hope this helps
With both battery leads disconnected from the battery posts
Multimeter set to ohms, (TP Is just short for test probe from ur multimeter )
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14, read ohms
TP to pin 3 other TP to pin 11, read ohms
Reconnect both battery leads, ign off, meter set to Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP pin 4 Read Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 4 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
Click image to enlarge
24th Apr 2024 2:13 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
This is the kind of battery post clamp I mean, so that u could just connect the one going to the fuse box, but from experience would have to be a longer clamp in order that fuse box positive lead can reach
I’ll find one for u just in case it’s a worthwhile test to perform
Ps, please ignore the connections as that just for my aux battery , wished to just show the type of clamp
Click image to enlarge
24th Apr 2024 2:16 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14136
Something ike this , does say it’s for a positive battery post , hope this makes sense
Member Since: 21 Jul 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32
Click image to enlarge
I'm having another go at it.
Both keys tried and the flashing red (immobiliser?) light always flashing. I'm attaching a photo.
Also attaching a photo of the battery. If I manage to remove the clamp and reattach only the cable circled-ish in green, that would be what I need to do to disconnect the alternator? I think I have a clamp somewhere that may do that well enough.
Click image to enlarge
2005 Disco 3 TDV6 SE Auto Bonatti Grey
185k and counting
Last edited by fogaff on 24th Apr 2024 6:54 pm. Edited 2 times in total
24th Apr 2024 5:27 pm
fogaff
Member Since: 21 Jul 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32
Don't think the photos uploaded. Trying again.2005 Disco 3 TDV6 SE Auto Bonatti Grey
185k and counting
24th Apr 2024 5:29 pm
fogaff
Member Since: 21 Jul 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 32
Right, back indoors after more investigation.
I separated the fuse board cable from the alternator cable and connected the fuse board cable to the +ve terminal of the battery with a jump lead thereby isolating the alternator. Cleared and re-read faults and they all came back.
I did the test of the OBD socket that you suggested with the following results (just a list of answers in order as I'm on the mobile site and can't quote your reply):
I have been puzzling over the immobiliser light and called a friend who has a D3. He unlocked his car and the light was still there but when he turned the ignition on, but not trying to start it, the light went out. Mine definitely stays on. So I would deduce that for some reason my car is not switching off the immobiliser. I guess this could be due to one of the faults but could it be that the immobiliser system is faulty or that the keys have somehow become forgotten by the car, even though they unlock it?
I have been charging my battery overnight and put it back on, crossing my fingers that the freshly charged battery would be the solution. I cleared the codes etc as before, but to no avail. They came back. However, when I checked the battery voltage it was only 12.4 volts and maybe it needs to be a minimum of 12.8 for the car to not throw a fit.
So my next port of call is a battery retailer and I'll charge that properly and see if that helps.
Other than that I think I'm beaten 😢2005 Disco 3 TDV6 SE Auto Bonatti Grey
185k and counting
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