Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
direct motor replacement found
So I put my motor on the bench and it blew 15, 20 and 25A fuses and eventually smoked. Put a different motor on and it ran lovely with a 25A fuse. So motor is kaput.
The people that Gary found, Blue Chip Autronics in South Wales also could not get replacement motors so they commissioned a special build of 1000. They are happy to sell them.
I am just off to get one
3rd Jul 2024 2:34 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13928
Hi
So pleased it was useful to u and great news they have some motors
On looking on eBay I see some selling the motors for £500
Plse let us know how u get on
4th Jul 2024 3:16 am
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
All reinstalled, what next
So new motor tested with gearbox ...seems to run fine. Bought new brake cables and connected to EPB unit.
New shoes installed with new discs and the new EPB cables. Then attempted to follow the proper set up but could only get 4 clicks of slack instead of 8. Issue here ?
Cheers
Chris
11th Jul 2024 6:26 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
Do I need to do anything else to EPB or just try it?
So I have reinstalled EPB with new motor (old one smoked when tried on bench so definitely faulty); put new brake cables in just in case old ones were t0o stretched; new Ferodo shoes inside new discs.
Do I need to do anything to EPB with the IID tool before trying out the handbrake? You can tell I am nervous!
13th Jul 2024 12:25 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
Tried it and it failed again
Misery. Reconnected battery, started up and tried it. Flashing red light again on application of handbrake
Fault code this time is different, C1A43-00, electrical failure H bridge.
As I have already tested the inputs to EPB, including a load test on the power cables, I am now assuming there is a fault with the EPB board itself. The unit had not jammed previously and is making no squealing noises or in fact any noises.
I think it may be grit teeth and take it all out again and see what can be seen?
13th Jul 2024 3:16 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1407
There's a guy up in Southport who does EPB module repairs if you want to call himI see no ships........
13th Jul 2024 7:09 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
Started faultfinding again...HELLLLPPPP.
Thanks Spiderbaby, I will hold for now until I get to the bottom of this. The motor was definitely broken but it may also have damaged the circuit board...or vice versa.
I now have a second EPB which I have put in the car (after testing motor and gearbox) and re installed the shoes, cables and discs. So I have tried to be logical but my head is scrambled. Anyway, test sequence...
Reconnected battery.
Key in...no warning lights
Ignition II...no amber light but red flashing light immediately
Started car, Connected IID tool, read faults...no EPB faults
Tried to mount and latch EPB using IID...operation failed. (does flashing red somehow disable all ops on IID??)
Monitored the live value of the switch input:
normal position ....IID reads neutral
pushed down...IID reads .release
pull up ...IID reads brake ...and amber light comes on
I ran the switch again and I thought I saw "error" flash up in live switch status when I pulled before it changed to brake....I presume the IID tool reads the status on the CAN bus from the EPB? Does this show that the 4 wires from the switch to the EPB are good or is there a better test?
Did I read somewhere that if the red flashing light is on the EPB ignores all switch inputs?
I have checked fuses 41 and 40 in the CJB and their voltages at the EPB connector...all OK
I have wired a headlight bulb across both VBatt and GND points on the EPB connector and measured across the bulb
G4-G2 ...12.77v
H4-H2...12.82v Voltage at battery is 13.01v (with a ctec charger attached). This seems OK?
I am at a loss now and stuck on what to do next. Any advice gratefully received .
Thanks
Chris
16th Jul 2024 6:13 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
Best place to buy an EPB?
I have tested everything I could find to the best of my ability and I think I have two duff EPBs, the original one where I swapped out a faulty motor and the one I was given that was removed from a Sport.
Where is the current best place to buy an EPB based on price v quality ?
18th Jul 2024 11:10 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13928
Hi Chris
Sorry to hear ur still having issues , did u manage to get it synched with the gap iid in the end plse
I had a thought , wonder if u just plugged the electrical plug into the EPB then done a canbus test as I’m wondering then if it show that the resister is ok or not
Just an idea of trying to pin down the errors , hopefully someone else will be able to confirm if that would be a well worth test or not
If it is happy to tell u what wires u need to be on using a multimeter
As a side note the earths are / C2570 (BASE OF LEFT "D" PILLAR) and for the switch C2598
(BASE OF RIGHT "B" PILLAR), alas for the life of me can’t remember if that’s for a LHD or RHD
Parts wise Paul at advanced is very helpful
Hope that helps
21st Jul 2024 3:27 am
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
Cheers Gary. Before I launch into more wiring tracing I have just noticed this posting and thread..
Very similar to my situation, including the part about it being difficult to set the brakes. Makes me wonder if the non-original cables are causing an issue somehow.
So work to do this morning is:-
1 Try and calibrate longitudinal sensor....its up on stands and a little high at back end so it will not be correct but it will be interesting to see what occurs. Also interesting is that all this kerfuffle started when I bumped into a kerb head on while parking and the red light and boing started. Coincidence?
2 Use IID to check what VIN is being seen and work out how to re-lock it if required
3 Get lid off EPB under car and have another look at the behaviour of the motor and bronze rod.
21st Jul 2024 10:11 am
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
So now knowing about it being vin locked and a sensor needing calibration:
1) looked at EPB ECU info
IID says "no assembly exists". But also says this of Parking Aid ( I do have issues with parking sensors), Steering Angle and the Dynamic Stability (suspension fuse is out)
2) looked at current info for EPB and it does show a different VIN to the car. Will look into how to change this later
3) Longitudinal sensor calibrated successfully so that both live readings now show zero Good to know it will do it ( I will need to do it again when on the flat)
4) BUT I took lid off and the bronze rod is now all the way over to the left! When parking brake was then pulled up the motor rotated the rod for about 5 secs but stayed all way next to the white box (sensor) which was also set as far over as possible. Seemingly no engagement with threaded rod of LHS brake cable.
I also checked error codes and this time showed two instances of C1A43-01 for each time the brake was raised.
I have seen this code in other posts and it rarely seems to imply a motor failure but seemed to point to the brake set up....or does it??
Does the bronze rod being all the way over to the sensor end and the sensor being over as far as it will go imply an issue with LHS or RHS brakes??
21st Jul 2024 11:51 am
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
Sorted...what a beautiful sound
That rod being driven to the sensor end of the EPB seemed to me to indicate an issue with the RHS brakes. And worried that the second EPB with the different VIN registered in its file was also introducing something weird I committed the sin of changing more than one thing at a time to do the next stage of fault-finding and did this:
1) Put back in my original EPB module, the one where I replaced the motor which smoked when tested on the bench
2) changed the new RHS cable for the original one I took out...managed to salvage the end cap. The inner cable on this old one slid so much more easily than in the new one. Also the brakes seemed to much easier to set up correctly with the old 8 click routine
3) Recalibrated the longitudinal sensor using IID tool
SWMBO pulled the parking brake switch while I watched underneath the car and LO! That lovely whirring noise followed by a short movement of the rod to the middle and it was parked. Then it released on command. Then did it again...and again...oh and red flashing light had gone
So conclusions:
- there was definitely a faulty motor in the EPB which I replaced.
- the second fault then came from the new non-original cable...based on the difficulty I had in setting up the brakes.
- not sure if longitudinal sensor calibration made any difference...I wait to be enlightened by others...but I am still bugged by the fact that this all started when I bumped head on into kerb while parking
And it will probably all break again when I do the bedding in process. I will definitely do the 8 clicks again once it has managed to bed in.
23rd Jul 2024 6:33 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4960
You don't absolutely need to bed the shoes in, I usually just apply the handbrake and drive forward and reverse (20ft) a couple of times and that's it done.
If it's not holding the car the adjustment is likely out.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
23rd Jul 2024 6:50 pm
oldandslow1
Member Since: 07 Oct 2018
Location: Abergavenny
Posts: 63
Thanks Prof. I think I will do the same then.
23rd Jul 2024 7:11 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4960
It will become sharper after a short while of use if everything is correct! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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