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jik22
Member Since: 14 Oct 2007
Location: Perth
Posts: 64
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Just getting front and rear pads done today at 36,000k's - I supplied the pads and got quoted an hour labour per end, which I thought was reasonable time-wise. Am hoping the rotors last another year till it's out of warranty so I don't have to use LR ones! - Jeff K -
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13th Jan 2009 4:00 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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Hi Norto
Contamination of the seals leading to boost pressure loss.
My dealer has had a few. LR have been informed. Should be a recall issue even outside of warranty as it is safety related. Go back to the dealer and tell them about it. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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13th Jan 2009 5:03 am |
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Crispy
Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Mandurah
Posts: 63
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A couple of weeks ago I replaced the front and rear rotors and pads. the rotors were quite worn and the pads still had some life in them and i was getting 20" wheels to so did it all at once. The pads and rotors all genuine came to around $796 without sensors (you only need these if the sensor alarm has gone off). It was an easy job to replace all the bits. 1 hour for each corner did it all. But by the time I got to the last corner it took around 35 minutes. I rand DBA as they do quote them for the D3 but they were quite a bit dearer than genuine (for the HSE at least). They quoted me $200ea for DBA standard series.
Dont forget you'll need a Torx50 size bit to get the rotors off the hub. no other 'special' tools - everything is very conventional under there.
Check Gallery for recent photos.
Bye. '05 D3 HSE V8, Zambezi
'92 Jag XJRS
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25th Jan 2009 7:13 am |
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ianv
Member Since: 20 Dec 2007
Location: Bungendore, New South Wales
Posts: 338
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Hi Norto,
Thanks for the heads up on brakes, IU am just going in for the 96K with a month of warranty left so will give the pedal a good puch to check it out.
I decided to keep mine and will pay out the lease and get a commuter car for work. Quite honestly the disco still feels like new so dropping it bakc to 10 or 15K per year should see it with us for a while.
Oh and it had it's first Land Rover assist call last week, Anne was in Victoria, in a rural area, and went out in the morning, lots of warning lights and messages and no starter. The battery dropped a cell. Laughable as I have a new one in the shed at home on maintenance charge. The Disco was trucked to Albury as no one checked the battery and the dealer got a new one on warranty in after 3 days, Land Rover assist gave Anne a rental car for 4 days to get through and we ended up doing 1600km in that rather than the Disco. Albury delaer was great but LRA subcontractors RACV and NRMA were continually confused and unable to find the case notes. As the case started in Victoria and was resolved in NSW.
All the best
Ianv TDV6
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25th Jan 2009 8:05 am |
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norto
Member Since: 10 Apr 2006
Location: batemans bay
Posts: 1605
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Ian
Good to see you are still under warranty
See you at Bendethera...which way are you coming
Mabyre we should all get together somewhere and go as a convoy Pete
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25th Jan 2009 12:02 pm |
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LeighW
D3 Decade
Member Since: 31 Jan 2006
Location: Brisbane, AUS
Posts: 920
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I know that many owner's cars will be coming up to 3 years old and the warranty expiring (unless you have an extended warranty) but if you are getting pads changed near 3 years of use then consider the brake fluid also.
The manual says that the brake fluid must be changed at 3 year intervals.
In case someone asks, the cost is about $95 ($70 labour, and $15 one litre of brake fluid plus GST). Total time about one hour. LeighW
The old girl is on her third engine...
* first ran a bearing (design failure in original engine)
* second had a failure of the water outlet on top of the engine (pls check yours)
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27th Jan 2009 2:58 am |
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caverD3
Member Since: 02 Jul 2006
Location: Oberon, NSW
Posts: 6922
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Oil can leak through the vac hose into the booster and causing booster seal failure. A few cases already. Dealer should replace the whole system even out of warranty I would think.
Had a look at the vac line , there is a joint in the line in front of the booster, mine has oil in it. I'm getting the dealer to look at next month. “There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely gamesâ€
Ernest Hemmingway
D4 3.0 Active Diff, Adaptive Lights, High Beam Assist, Surround Cameras, Privacy Glass.
D3 2.7:Adaptive Headlights,Electronic Rear Diff,ARB Bar,Blaupunkt Speakers,JVC Powered Subwoofer,Removable Snorkel,Mitch Hitch,Pioneer After Market Head Unit,Steering Wheel Control Adaptor,Remote Adjustable Supension Rod System, Taxside Dual Battery System.
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27th Jan 2009 6:40 am |
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tomtba
Member Since: 25 Aug 2010
Location: Queensland
Posts: 5
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The brake issue being referred to is relevant to a vin specific recall in which oil gets into the booster and limits braking performance. If you ask your dealer they should be happy to contact Landrover Australia and get it covered under warranty (if it has expired or is outside of the vin range). It is something that all dealers have seen and the dealer in toowoomba was very helpfull in getting mine repaired fully under warranty when the car was 12months and 27,000klms out of original warranty.
The official Landrover line regarding the machining of rotors is not to do it, I think because they would most likely end up under sized.
As for the sensors most of the time they can be re-used however if not they should only be a $30-$40 item anyway.
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25th Aug 2010 2:16 am |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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Save all the hassle of a dealer by doing them yourself.
Brake Bible is a usefull printable guide to doing the whole job which you can add to your touring toolkit Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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25th Aug 2010 11:09 am |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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tomtba wrote:If you ask your dealer letters would have been issued by LR as it was a voluntary safety recall and would have been done regardless of km's or age. the post you replied to is over 18 months old.
tomtba wrote:The official Landrover line regarding the machining of rotors is not to do it the "official" documentation from LR gives you a new thickness and a service limit, stay between and you are fine.
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25th Aug 2010 12:49 pm |
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Zilch
Member Since: 24 Apr 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 131
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CW interested if you had your front rotors machined ? We had them done 4 weeks ago on the Sport, allegedly within tolerances we were told by an independent Tyre/brake company , one hard braking episode later and we had shuddering even under low braking force, ended up replacing the front rotors within 2 weeks. The LR specialist that did the replacements said it was a common problem on machined rotors and they would never recommend machining, just changing them ..
Cheers
Jim another Pommie from the darkside
MY20 Defender P400 SE
MY103 RR Sport TDv6
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26th Aug 2010 8:01 am |
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catweasel
Member Since: 05 May 2006
Location: Bundaleer
Posts: 4805
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I have just changed my original pads at 105k and left the original rotors on and unmachined as they didnt warrant it. unless the rotors are heavily scored I never bother, the pads bed in fine. I have had previous vehicles rotors machined with no ill effects, they were machined on vehicle and with a slow speed as to not introduce heat.
how were your disks machined and how long did you bed the pads for.
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26th Aug 2010 8:29 am |
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marks243
Member Since: 29 Nov 2007
Location: Hall, Canberra
Posts: 12
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Hi there,
I just got my Front pads and Discs changed at the Dealer for $517. car done 80k's, they check trans oil and said it looked ok.
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27th Aug 2010 9:01 pm |
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Zilch
Member Since: 24 Apr 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 131
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catweasel wrote:I have just changed my original pads at 105k and left the original rotors on and unmachined.......
how were your disks machined and how long did you bed the pads for.
My Sport has done 118k and is on the 3rd set of rotors on the front and the 2nd on the back.. I got 39K out of the first set, and then changed again at 80K KM's, the fronts were changed at 116K. The rears i have been informed will be ok until the next set of pads..
Bedding in when they were machined was a approx one week, but i would say most probably less than 500 KM's, however a nigh on emergency stop on the Pacific Highway by the wife precluded any further bedding in just new rotors.
No idea how they were originally machine. another Pommie from the darkside
MY20 Defender P400 SE
MY103 RR Sport TDv6
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28th Aug 2010 6:30 am |
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