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latnutgub
Member Since: 25 Aug 2011
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 170
  
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I would blank and get the BAS, EML fix done. I have noticed an increase in power and better MPG. DM guidance is the way to go 
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 22nd Dec 2017 10:12 am |
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sparsons
Member Since: 21 Apr 2017
Location: Totnes,Devon
Posts: 14
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Do you think i would need to get the blanks installed before the map and EML fix?
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| 22nd Dec 2017 12:38 pm |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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Installing the blanks was very quick. Probably less than an hour. The butterfly took another hour or so.
New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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| 22nd Dec 2017 12:50 pm |
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Pherrish
Member Since: 23 Dec 2017
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 5
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Hi.
This post is for those like me who need to fix their own vehicle but may not make the panel of University Challenge or own a mechanics tool kit.
First of all , thanks to all for the help offered on this forum.
Thanks also to Bell auto services for the step by step guide on line. It made the job much easier and quicker. Marvellous.
My first knowledge of their being a definitive fault, rather than a suspicion that something wasn't quite right, was when our 2006 Discovery TDV6 HSE AUTO suffered ROUGH STARTING, LACK OF POWER and UNEVEN TICKOVER.
Then one morning it would barely leave the drive on tickover and would hardly rev because it had NO POWER at all.
Looked on this forum and assumed it was EGR FAULT.
Tried the 2 PENCE PIECE X 2 fix first.
How?
Lifted the bonnet.
Remove oil filler cap by turning anti clockwise about half a turn.
Popped off the plastic engine cover by pulling carefully but firmly at each corner making sure the foam insulation pad comes with it.
Put the oil filler cap back on.
From near the top centre front of the engine there ought to be a silver braided pipe going left and right and down to the side of the engine where it looks very cramped to work.
With a large ish screwdriver I prised open/ un clipped the two fastenings holding the braided pipes to the stub pipes that are fixed to the black box.
I then squeezed two x 2 pence pieces ( one each side ) into the gap.
I made sure nothing would drop out and no tools were left anywhere.
I started the engine.
Checked all was ok.
Job took a few minutes.
Dropped the bonnet and went for a short test drive.
A vast improvement and proof that it was EGR fault.
I ordered the blanking kit and upon arrival set to the job with trepidation thinking it would be a right pain in the hands,back ,knees etc.
Fear not. Access is ok with the correct tools.
In my limited experience what was needed was:
3/8" socket set. My 1/2" set would not fit in the access space for the top bolt on the right side of the engine, as you look at it from the front of the car.
8 mm spanner preferably straight, not cranked. Or better, a straight ring spanner with a ratchet in it.
8mm socket with extensions, about 10 inches ,roughly.
10mm spanner for the top nut of the Y duct.
Universal joint at bottom of extension with the 8mm socket attached to this for the bottom bolt on the right , as you look from the front.
2 different sizes of Torx bits for the screws on the actuator valve body and stub pipes. Sorry, I don't know the designation/ size of TORX bits as I used a diy multi kit, specifically, a JCB drill/multi tool kit which was very handy. I think it was a little over a tenner from a well known diy store. There are other kits to choose from.
I found that removing the sides of the plastic " box" housing the brake fluid reservoir ( it looks the same as the battery box on the other side of the engine bay ) made access easier.
When you remove the self tapping screw that holds the silver foil heat shield to the box take care not to drop it. I did. Gone. A potential puncture.
Try not to break the clips that hold the L - shaped side to the base. I did. Ah well.
If I did the job again I would try to have all tools magnetised because gravity does what it does best and getting dropped spanners back from the inaccessible depths is pure luck I found.
I would also tie the 8mm spanner to my wrist temporarily as
the 8mm long bolt which goes horizontally through the bottom and front of the air box is very tricky to manipulate.
When removing this box I found it best to tilt the bottom of it to the front of the car into the fan blade area and move it slightly to my left, then up.
Other than that following the excellent Bell auto services PDF is the way to go.
I hope this may help.
If there are any omissions or blatant errors please let me know and I will amend.
I've just given it a proper test drive and the transformation is a dramatic improvement.
It now behaves as you'd expect a V6 turbo diesel would.
Good luck
Jack.
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| 30th Dec 2017 11:52 am |
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Unicorn_dale
Member Since: 09 Jan 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4
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First post, so be gentle.
I know this topic has been done to death.
About two months ago I noticed my D3 2.7D 2007 having v little power from a cold start and giving off smoke when I started first thing everyday.
Then just before Xmas the EML came on. It has been on and off intermittently since.
My regular mechanic checked fault codes and told me one of the EGR valves in stuck in the open position ( I am sure he used other terminology but that is how I understood it). He can do the blank but can't guarantee the ECU won't throw up another EGR fault. Reading through the posts it appears I need a software update. Unfortunately, my mechanic isn't able to do that.
The longer I put off the fix I am afraid I may be risking turbo damage.
Is there anyone in Lancashire/North Manchester who can assist?
Thanks
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| 17th Jan 2018 3:24 pm |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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What age is your D3? I'm afraid I'm on a mobile, and can't see your car profile...
If it is a Eu3 engine (pre 2007), you can blank with no software patch.
If it is a later EU4 engine (08 model year onwards) you do need the patch. Just to confuse things, later 2007 cars are 08 model year... New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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| 17th Jan 2018 6:20 pm |
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Unicorn_dale
Member Since: 09 Jan 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4
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Its a 2007 so 08 as evidenced by the "8A" in the VIN.
Regards
U_dale
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| 17th Jan 2018 6:28 pm |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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Same as mine
You need a software patch... New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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| 17th Jan 2018 6:58 pm |
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Unicorn_dale
Member Since: 09 Jan 2018
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4
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Can you recommend someone in Lancashire?
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| 17th Jan 2018 8:15 pm |
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latnutgub
Member Since: 25 Aug 2011
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 170
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Give site member Flack a PM.
He did my EML light last month.
Previously I ran it for over a year with it on after blanking.
Only got it done so it would pass MOT.
Mine is also 2007 Euro4.
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| 23rd Jan 2018 3:42 pm |
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conman69
Member Since: 11 Aug 2012
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 431
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| EGR Blanking with software patch |
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Well it look like I have the same issue now 
Anything to do with faults always seems to happen to SWMBO when I'm away so its left to her to sort  She now wants to get rid 
Anyway I've been quoted between 700-850 to have the valves replaced and 300-430 to have them blanked, although one garage has told me they would have to put a disclaimer on the invoice for blanking due to the new MOT ruling.
I will probably go the blanking route for obvious reasons and would leave the pipework in place. To do this I guess you wouldn't be able to use a blanking kit and would have to install shims instead, if im correct in this what type of shims would be best to use.
Is there a shim kit like the blank kit available?
Where is the best place to have the software patch and how long does it take/cost?
Thoughts and input greatly appreciated Discovery3 TDV6 GS
Disco3.co.uk front orange +white tailgate stickers
Belts, pulleys, oil pump replaced, double tow-bar electrics
Land Rover rubber mats throughout, tinted windows, wind deflectors, smoked side repeaters, retro fitted Garmin, smooth leather steering wheel, cruise control + radio switches, 19" HSE wheels, Bearmech side-tubes, BAS IFBH module, roofbars.
LML Star Deluxe
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| 25th Jan 2018 9:25 am |
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latnutgub
Member Since: 25 Aug 2011
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 170
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Not sure who does Norfolk area for the BAS SW update for the Euro 4 EML. Give BAS a call and see if they have a local rep. There is enough information on this forum for you to do it yourself. The blanking kits are available through AF site sponsor. The blanking takes about 3hrs.
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| 25th Jan 2018 4:38 pm |
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andyd2
Member Since: 18 May 2016
Location: Bucks
Posts: 14
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I also seem to be getting this EML now intermittently, fault codes have been read and definitely an EGR issue.
58 registered 08MY, so I know I need the software update, but does anyone know or can recommend someone near Buckinghamshire that would be able to do it for me?
Thanks
Andy
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| 26th Jan 2018 9:38 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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I can do that. Drop me a message with your postcode 👍 Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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| 26th Jan 2018 10:33 pm |
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sumomeister
Member Since: 30 Sep 2017
Location: Cardiff
Posts: 5
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Hi all, sorry if I'm repeating previous posts here, but I've got an intermittent problem with my EML showing the EGR fault. I was planning on getting it blanked off and re-mapped (it's an 09 D3), but the garage I took it to said that without getting the DPF removed as well, it would cause problems down the road with the DPF getting clogged much quicker than normal.
Just wondering what peoples thoughts were on here? I don't fancy deleting the DPF with the legal issues surrounding that, but happy to get the EGR blanked and remapped accordingly.
Based near Cardiff if anyone has any recommendations. I'm guessing a place who's done a few Discos rather than a generic remapping shop would be useful.
Cheers.
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| 27th Jan 2018 7:27 pm |
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