Member Since: 28 Aug 2012
Location: Nairobi
Posts: 5
Howdy! I have the same problem with an intermittent working key fob (both keys), i checked for the splice in the wire loom but with no joy yet, pgerman, did u eventually find the joint? Did u solve the problem?
21st Nov 2012 5:54 pm
ballast
Member Since: 13 Apr 2007
Location: South Midlands
Posts: 181
Long running saga this it seems. So I just bought a D3 that had exactly this problem. Dealer has sold previous owner two new keys (so I've got four!); then they both stopped working again. Followed the thread, persevered and hey it worked.
On a RHD vehicle, the joint is located under the kick plate on the nearside sill within the loom; I'd almost given up that I wouldn't find it and then there it was, tucked right behind the cables that go under the front passenger seat. From what I've read, this is further back than I expected and quite difficult to access. The joint looked perfect with no loose cables or corrosion and I was very sceptical, so I stripped the wires back (checked the voltage on each, which was inconsistent), twisted them together and bingo, it worked. They're now soldered and taped up.
You will have to cut all the binding tape to free up the loom and you will have to dig around to find it.
Go against your better judegement that it looks ago and reterminate the cables.
Thank you to all for the previous guidance.
8th Dec 2012 3:52 pm
rickymoto
Member Since: 29 Sep 2009
Location: south of edinburgh
Posts: 38
Just confirming previous post from "ballast"....
Mine over the last number of weeks became inconsistent with un / locking using both key fobs .
Went on guidance from the posts and after eventually finding the wires, I did the repair.
Worst part of job....replacing the plastic, which is below outer kick plate !!
Thanks forum for saving me a few pounds, and a lot of grief !! you need the bad times to appreciate the good..........
'55 D3 Auto S
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6th Jan 2013 6:53 pm
Spooky
Member Since: 02 Jun 2009
Location: Swindon, Wilts
Posts: 1013
Guess what - I've had this problem recently, and - yep - it was the connector by the passenger seat. It all looked fine, just had a high resistance.
Re-soldered the connection and all's well.Regards,
Mick
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14th Mar 2013 9:46 pm
rich89
Member Since: 23 Jan 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 96
I've got this problem now...
Went to lock the car but didn't do anything, climbed back in the car and put the key up by the roof liner and it locked.
Anywhere apart from that, it does not work.
So the wires are sure to be the issue?
16th Mar 2013 11:28 am
Md1xdjw
Member Since: 28 Feb 2011
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1
Keyfob sensor wires
I had this problem occur on Friday. I lifted the trim to expose the loom, found that everything was very wet. I cut the tape that binds the loom and found the connector (image in md1xdjw gallery). I cut this off, rejoined the wires and all is good. Now just got to get the trim back in place. I have also posted an image of the connector cut open to show the corrosion inside that has caused the wires to break.
Now i just need to unblock the sunroof drain, investigate the fault with the parking sensors, sit back and wait for the next fault to arise, shouldn't be waiting too long!
24th Mar 2013 7:44 pm
rb30gtr
Member Since: 23 Jul 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2
Wish I had found all of this before I went and bought a receiver and new key,
Mind you when we buy LR stuff here in Australia we literally have to sell off a kidney to get them.
New key - $400
Alarm reciever - $268
Workshop to code the new key - $168.
Still not working central locking - Priceless?? oh wait that's not right.
Will be checking this connector in the front foot well tonight, I'm pretty sure this will be it as a couple of weeks ago I filled the front passenger foot well with muddy water. And have tried everything else.
Its not in the foot well it is about six inches forward from the passenger door pillar where the seat belt mounts to, and its normally under or in the middle of the big loom...
Flack
15th Aug 2013 8:57 am
rb30gtr
Member Since: 23 Jul 2013
Location: Sydney
Posts: 2
Flack wrote:
rb30gtr
Its not in the foot well it is about six inches forward from the passenger door pillar where the seat belt mounts to, and its normally under or in the middle of the big loom...
Flack
Awesome, thanks Flack.
Is this a 'seat out' procedure, or can the loom be pulled up with the seat in situ?
Cheers,
Ben
16th Aug 2013 1:52 am
Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
Hi Ben,
You don't need to remove the seat, The wiring loom is under a cover accessed from the front passenger door opening.(I don't remember if it is better to free the bottom of the B-pillar trim first, or not. )
Best Wishes,
PeterThe Bearded Dragon
17th Aug 2013 4:58 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Diagram of splice SJ50 that feeds the remote locking RF Receiver and the Tyre Pressure Monitoring System from the Central Junction Box Fuse 43P :
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20740
ballast wrote:
The joint looked perfect with no loose cables or corrosion and I was very sceptical, so I stripped the wires back (checked the voltage on each, which was inconsistent), twisted them together and bingo, it worked. They're now soldered and taped up.
Spooky wrote:
Guess what - I've had this problem recently, and - yep - it was the connector by the passenger seat. It all looked fine, just had a high resistance.
I have to re-itterate what was said by these members.
Both of my keys stopped working just before the car went back on the road. It is a known issue, so I went and checked for 12v at the receiver in the roof. That was all good.
Checked the splice joint in the floor, opened it up. No corrosion etc. After a bit of head scratching, the joint was remade and heatshrinked to make it waterproof, and 1 key started working again. The other key is dead, and is on the to-do list
Member Since: 05 Jan 2013
Location: York
Posts: 709
From Robbies wiring diagrams does this mean that anything without tyre pressure monitoring doesn't have this problem? And also I assume that no sun roof helps too?26 and on the 4th LR..
Series 2a 1963 88'' 2.25 Derv as original with Galv chassis
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17th Aug 2013 9:34 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
The diagrams reflect the actual wiring, not what options may or may not be fitted at the end. I cannot think why the sunroof would influence the wiring in the door channels.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 20 Oct 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 1
Silly question, but her goes -- you all are referring to the splice being on the "passenger side" -- so I assume you're referring to the left side of the car. I'm in the U.S., and looked for this splice on the passenger side here, but couldn't find it. Should I actually be looking at the driver's side on a US car? Or is all the wiring reversed here in the US?
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