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Frapp
Member Since: 19 Dec 2008
Location: Norff Zummerzet
Posts: 1655
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CIDER Member of the carrot crank club
Embarrassingly in for the 2nd round, bought another two
D3 Jack Russell carrier
D4 Landmark for towing duties
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1st Jul 2011 4:20 pm |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
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yes, just drinking a pint of Bulmers and ice now Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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1st Jul 2011 5:36 pm |
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garryc
Member Since: 08 May 2007
Location: Adelaide Hills
Posts: 259
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maplecottage wrote:Looking at the workshop manual, it wouldn't appear to be that much of an issue once you have removed some panels and the undertray.
Extract here http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...emoval.pdf
Mind you - it doesn't say how to get it out once you have removed the mounting bolts
I had to lever mine out and couldn't work out why it was so hard to remove it. I then could not get it back in at ALL no matter how much I tried. The instructions say insert and rotate but I couldn't 'insert' it I then worked out that the connection stud that the cable goes on was about 1/2" too long I shortened the stud so that there was about 1/16th" protruding past the nut when the cable was bolted down. Wallah! in like Flynn. The starter was a Denso brand. Because the starter is installed in the engine before the engine is installed in the vehicle then the stud length was not taken into consideration. Maybe other brands of starters have a shorter stud, I hope so 2013 D4, E-diff, Vision pack
Never propose to a Yak
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2nd Jul 2011 5:45 am |
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DiscoDunc
Member Since: 08 May 2006
Location: Bristol
Posts: 16390
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it wasnt easy to remove - it took a lot of twisting and turning. I took all the underbody panels etc off before i took it to the garage.
all they had to do was disconnect the fuel cooler, move the fuel filter, disconnect the power cables and then unbolt the starter.
it sounds easy !!! - id never have done it lying under it on the drive.. Duncan
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If I'd known I was going to be so thirsty this morning I'd have drunk more beer last night.
FFRR Autobiography 4.4 SDV8 MY17
D4 HSE MY13 SOLD
FFRR 3.6 Vogue TDV8 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D4 SE TECH MY15 SOLD
D4 XS MY12 SOLD
D4 HSE MY10 SOLD
D3 HSE MY06 - Re-Cycled Worldwide
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2nd Jul 2011 8:36 am |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6299
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Disco_Mikey wrote:I remember reading in an old LRO mag, there was a feature on the VR/CAD design studio at LR HQ...
The same issue came up, "is there enough space to get a Disco 3 starter out through the subframe?"
The answer was "Yes, but you have to know which ways to turn it"
We have the same problem at work when we have to remove/replace parts that have been designed on cad systems, on the screen there looks plenty of room for access but you try removing the dam things. Its a good system but not always accurate, nothing like the real view when you come to work on it.
flack
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2nd Jul 2011 10:11 am |
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Nr1rolf
Member Since: 22 Jul 2015
Location: Skudeneshavn
Posts: 88
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Hi
I am wondering how you guys can say/tell that it is so
difficult to change the starter ? I was very concerned about
how big a job this was.
But it showed my concerns was a waste off energy, it's a simple job done in less
then one hour ( I had mine on a lift so that makes it easier then do it on the ground off course, but definitely doable anyway) if you follow this :
1. Take off the + wire on the battery ( secure it so that it stays off also)
2. Take off : the underneath engine protection and the right wheel
3. Take off the cables you are able to take off the starter when it is mounted
( I had to wait with one till I had the starter dismounted, but long wire on that made it easy)
4. Take off the bolts that is holding the starter (2 that ("big ones") that goes in towards rear off the car,
and you have a small support with 4 small bolts that are mounted on the side off the starter
( easy to see)
5. Take the starter out ( dismount the wire you got left, if you also weren't able to take it off earlier)
And to take it out from the engine "area" you have to take it out between the frame off the car and the lower arm ( it goes out pretty easy )
Then you just do it in reverse when you mont the new starter. Rolf
Norwegian
Previous: P38 2.5 DSE
Now : D3 2.7 Tdv6 HSE 7 seater with Premium Pack
With Recon engine from LCS !
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30th Apr 2017 11:43 am |
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gyislander
Member Since: 01 Mar 2017
Location: Isle of Bute
Posts: 94
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When I did my oil pump it was an hour and a real bitch to get out but I'd read somewhere on here to shorten the cable stud on the solenoid and shave a few mm off the engine mount ..... and it went back in in 2 minutes !!
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30th Apr 2017 6:03 pm |
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