Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20839
  
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If it's not failed yet, its well worthwhile considering fitting geoff's stronger cables, before it does fail.
IT will save a lot of grief and agro when it does fail  My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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 9th Sep 2013 5:20 am |
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vinnie
Member Since: 22 Jul 2011
Location: chesterfield
Posts: 314
 
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Mine has just gone tonight as far as i can tell  I press the button and hear the usual noise but it doesnt open so i am presuming from all the previous threads that the cable has broken ???
Geoff, i am planing on getting this done and replaced at the weekend. Any chance you can supply the appropriate cable / advice etc...
Cheers, Jase. He doesn't ask for much........But gives a lot.
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| 10th Sep 2013 7:26 pm |
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Shutts
Member Since: 26 Nov 2011
Location: Tiptree
Posts: 146
 
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While I was in Spain I had a similar issue where the top boot lid wouldnt open when the car was left in the sun. Actuator was moving but it wouldnt open, however, once it had cooled down it opened. Anyone else had the same issue or is my cable actually on the wayout?
Shutts |____000_
[l_|__\___\,___
l--___--_[O==O]
()_)' '()_)-----()_)
2005 D3 SE
1998 Disco 300tdi - slow play thing
1995 Defender 300tdi - Winching play thing
Aprilia RSV 1000 - fast play thing
Honda CR250 - noisy play thing
Essex Land Rover Club member
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Andy's Landy's - http://www.andys-landys.blogspot.com
Suspension checking workbook - http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...k_v002.zip
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| 10th Sep 2013 8:26 pm |
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Gwiz
Member Since: 17 Feb 2012
Location: Chelmsford
Posts: 212
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Guys fitting a new cable is ok, but you need to put a small cable tie round it when its fitted back into the plastic fitting on the actuator, as i found out mine had worked its way out due to enthusiastic closing of tail gate not me of course, its a poor design, and yes im with Chalky and the para cord as a fail safe release, why LR didnt do something like this i dont know, they have one on the fuel filler, when i do mine will post some pictures.  Graham
Always interested in learning,,
everyday is a school day, even at my age
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| 11th Nov 2013 7:44 pm |
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Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
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Chalky - any chance you could elaborate on what you mean by using a bit of paracord as a preventative measure?
Cheers.
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| 13th Dec 2013 10:38 pm |
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JDS
Member Since: 27 Oct 2011
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 50
 
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This thread is great, thanks so much as we were quoted 690€ (inc. a bunch of parts for the TOP tailgate that were obviously not needed) by the local stealer.
It took me under 2hrs this morning and that includes making up a cable-end; as we are off for Christmas tomorrow there was no time to order a new cable (or a new end from Geoff.). I used a large rivet as my cable-end as I reasoned that the collar of the rivet fitted perfectly into the plastic mechanism of the actuator that it would still operate even if the 90 degree end broke over time.
Now it's working again, when I get back after Christmas I'll take it apart again and add in a loop of para-cord (as per chalky;s suggestion) in case it ever does lock out again to save me the loss of skin on the back of my hand when getting access via the trim panel !!
Here's a couple of pix of my cable-end fix if anyone may find it useful.
[URL=][/URL]
[URL=][/URL]
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated 
Last edited by JDS on 21st Feb 2016 9:08 am. Edited 1 time in total
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| 22nd Dec 2013 12:56 pm |
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Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
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Loving the rivet idea!
What sort of connector is it that you have used to connect the rivet and cable?
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| 22nd Dec 2013 2:22 pm |
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Biffysun
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Central
Posts: 1790
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looks like standard electrical strip block to suit  I'm liking the rivet idea too
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| 22nd Dec 2013 2:43 pm |
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NickJ
Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: there's no f in point
Posts: 2137
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That's a good cheap fix. I guess if you dont want the connector being that large, just strip off the plastic leaving the metal and the two screws. However, it definately wont be seen again so it doesn't matter.
I almost found out the hard way that my cable end was cracking, and stripped the lock just in time I reckon before it broke.
This is definately one preventative maintenance job that has to be done to prevent a whole world of pain later on when it does break.
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| 22nd Dec 2013 3:13 pm |
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richardch
Member Since: 27 Dec 2005
Location: Zurich
Posts: 458
 
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I tried this myself and really couldn't get the panel out without breaking it, so I took it to the LR stealership, who then told me we collected it that they had to break the panel and here is a bill for GBP 450
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| 22nd Dec 2013 7:03 pm |
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Adigorn
Member Since: 14 Mar 2010
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 546
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Quote:that they had to break the panel
we are just much more talented here 
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| 22nd Dec 2013 8:09 pm |
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Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
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Excellent!
So the dillema now is whether to do a DIY upgrade (allen key or rivet variant), or to replace with the LR upgraded part (which now appears to cost circa £50 rather than the £25 mentioned in earlier posts) before it goes on me! 
I am surprised that no-one has mentioned including fitting a replacement water shedder(EOT500013) as they are only about a tenner.... 
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| 22nd Dec 2013 8:51 pm |
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JDS
Member Since: 27 Oct 2011
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 50
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Crackers wrote:Loving the rivet idea!
What sort of connector is it that you have used to connect the rivet and cable?
It's just a regular 400 volt electrical connector (needs to be a big one to take the rivet body and the cable, but this means that both of the screw terminals are clamping to both the rivet and the cable). If I'd have had more time I'd have filled it full of solder too, but a generous blob of metal glue helps keep them together if the screws ever fail. It's all housed inside the actuator unit, so looks no different to the original part and there is plenty of space. Of course, you could chop off all the plastic as no need for insulation but as there was no space issue I didn't bother (and it helped make a mould for the glue too).
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| 23rd Dec 2013 4:01 pm |
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Crackers
Member Since: 18 Sep 2013
Location: Camberley, Surrey
Posts: 163
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Thanks for that. I can see that it's a bit of 'choc block' now! And I did go to Specsavers! 
Quote:a generous blob of metal glue helps keep them together if the screws ever fail
What metal glue did you use?
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| 23rd Dec 2013 4:12 pm |
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JDS
Member Since: 27 Oct 2011
Location: Sunderland
Posts: 50
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Just a regular two-part epoxy that is designed to glue metal.
Last edited by JDS on 21st Feb 2016 9:10 am. Edited 1 time in total
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| 28th Dec 2013 1:29 pm |
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