Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Just had an idea, thinking about removing my third row seats , assume I’ll also have to take the seat belts out, ie for the MOT
Has anyone got a picture of the them removed , showing how much room is there after the seats are removed plse
Got a sliding floor and wondered with the seats removed of then fitting a 18mm piece of ply on the floor with all my split charge controllers, fuse boxes etc mounted onto the ply , plenty of access then with the sliding floor
What do u think of that idea , any problems anyone can see plse , assume I’ll have to run something like 25mm cables from the batteries to the controllers , 2 x positives also would I need to run 2 x separate earths plse
Wonder if I’ll be able to run the cables from the boot, down the drivers side sill channel and up and through the bulkhead to come out by the brake servo
Would just be great if there are any piccies plse to see how much room is there height wise
Thks again
24th Jul 2021 5:41 pm
Duc750
Member Since: 07 Aug 2017
Location: northampton
Posts: 305
could do for sure. if you're using a DC2DC you might not need that big a cable 16mm might do it
I'd put the Dc2DC unit as close to the main battery as you can and just run one set of cables back through there if it were me and i think most of the manufacturers want the shortest run to be the power to the charger. it would be happiest i think if you ran a pair back - positive and negative - its possible to ground the battery back at the back but remember what the charger is doing - it uses that ground as a reference point from which to calculate the energy it puts to the battery so its probably best to keep them off the same refence point. I think though technically it should be ok- electricity always flows through the easiest path to make a circuit
there's a cable calculator on 12 planet's site which is pretty good - ideally you want less than 3% loss.
Don't forget there's that pro speed bracket designed for an optima battery on its side in one of the rear compartments thats a neat solution as well - would be a bit with rear aircon though i think05 D3 V8 HSE, LR Passion tree bars, wildbear compressor guard, LRP switch panel, ARB rear locker + compressor, Trigger 6 shooter electrical system
12 RRS SDV6 HSE (Hers) - Gone and replaced with an I Pace - I can tell you now EV is not the future yet
Metalian Camper trailer
24th Jul 2021 8:43 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Many thks and very grateful
Just looked at the sizes of the renogy and the CTEK
Indeed would be perfect and save if I was able to get the unit as close as possible to the main battery
Upper glove box I’ve got an Aux fuse box that’s for my ancillary dashboard panel/ dashcam etc
Another place I thought of taking out the passenger seat , fitting it underneath then putting the seat back , could build or buy a box in order that nothing will earth out on it, along with a computer type fan to keep it cool and some way of fitting a thermostat so it comes on and off as required
Talking of batteries I’m also looking into a combined crank/ leisure battery that has 4 x battery posts , in freeing up the Aux battery box for all the controllers etc
Just been trying to find out as much as I can , plus of course the fantastic help as well which is invaluable and extremely grateful
do really like the idea of the Odessy battery on its side , don’t have rear AC
Suppose at the end of the day it’s weighing up all my options, if I have the Aux battery in that side boot locker , the controller, etc will go in the engine bay in the Aux battery area , also wires from the solar to the controller if it’s in the engine bay
Thanks I’ll check the cable chart out
Apologises as per usual I’m waffling , thanks so much once again
Click image to enlarge
25th Jul 2021 12:17 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Better pic showing the dimensions of the Renogy and the Ctek , alas though the renogy is nearly the size of an iPad
Don’t know if I could make some kind of bracket and fit it on top of the Aux battery , or I’ll double check the height and width of my existing Aux battery as maybe a yellow top is narrower , if so module might fit sideways ??
I really hope I’m not boring then hell out of everyone
Edit
Existing Aux battery ENDUROLINE
Length 242 mm - Width-175 mm- Height 190 mm
Looks like the oydessy batteries are taller , so cover might not fit , nothing like building a new fibreglass one then
Click image to enlarge
25th Jul 2021 2:02 am
Kelvo
Member Since: 07 Aug 2015
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 264
Duc750 wrote:
I'd put the Dc2DC unit as close to the main battery as you can and just run one set of cables back through there if it were me and i think most of the manufacturers want the shortest run to be the power to the charger.
You should do the complete opposite to that. The DC-DC charger should be mounted as close as possible to the battery that you want to charge.MY14 TDV6
25th Jul 2021 3:32 pm
Duc750
Member Since: 07 Aug 2017
Location: northampton
Posts: 305
Kelvo,
You may want to tell Sterling to update their installation instructions then and Ctek to provide clearer guidance on theirs as all their ideal circuit diagrams show a shorter run from the start battery to the unit than from the aux battery to the unit.
Maybe even tell Sterling to shorten their pre installed leads to the "target battery" and lengthen them to the "source battery" on the pre wired models
Whilst circuit diagrams are not to scale at every opportunity to draw the circuit diagram with the unit closer to the start battery not the other way round.
Victron don't seem to care to be fair05 D3 V8 HSE, LR Passion tree bars, wildbear compressor guard, LRP switch panel, ARB rear locker + compressor, Trigger 6 shooter electrical system
12 RRS SDV6 HSE (Hers) - Gone and replaced with an I Pace - I can tell you now EV is not the future yet
Metalian Camper trailer
26th Jul 2021 4:20 pm
Kelvo
Member Since: 07 Aug 2015
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 264
Dun750 give me the details of the Stirling DC-DC and a contact email and I will send them an email.
Kickass “It is most important to mount your KickAss Charger as close as possible to your auxiliary battery and be sure to keep your charger away from sources of heat.” https://www.australiandirect.com.au/assets...MANUAL.pdf
They invalidate the warranty if you shorten the cables they supply on that unit.
Also interesting how Ctek bound their installation guide by the length of the cable on the temperature sensor probe05 D3 V8 HSE, LR Passion tree bars, wildbear compressor guard, LRP switch panel, ARB rear locker + compressor, Trigger 6 shooter electrical system
12 RRS SDV6 HSE (Hers) - Gone and replaced with an I Pace - I can tell you now EV is not the future yet
Metalian Camper trailer
28th Jul 2021 1:50 pm
Kelvo
Member Since: 07 Aug 2015
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 264
Dun750 IMO that Stirling Power charger is a waste of time in a vehicle, based on their reply to me. Interestingly they didn’t answer my actual question about why they say it should be fitted close to the starter battery.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
MY14 TDV6
29th Jul 2021 5:39 am
Register
Member Since: 29 Nov 2021
Location: SW London
Posts: 261
Like a foreign language to me, but I did understand the request for photos with the rear seats out.
Not the best, but there's a surprising amount of space in there and a lot of weight removed.
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with rear aircon though i think
