Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
An unusual issue
Let me try to explain briefly. A few years ago I had the usual sunroof leak (on the right side), which I fixed promptly.
Some time after that I started having issues with the rear-door right lock. It started not unlocking (but locked correctly)… then… it started not locking either. Now, the rear right door lock is “dead”. It only works manually.
In between the issue with the rear door, the front right door started also to have some issues. It started not locking (super-lock). Then started not locking with the locking button. Now, it opens normally with remote or console button, BUT…. It closes “weakly” - by weakly i mean, when pressing the locking button, the locking lever moves slightly (but does not lock the door), when pressing the button again the door locks properly (and it is also possible to see the lever moving to the end lock position.
Now my question: I am suspecting the splice issue. For over 2 days I was trying to remove the plastic cover. Once removed, I scavenge for that green splice. It does not exist in my vehicle. However, I did find 2 other splices. One is with 4 red/black wires - 2 each side (see picture) and the other is with 3 red wires 2 to the front and on to back.
4-wires splice
Click image to enlarge
3-wires splice
I suspect the splice with 4 wires is likely SJ13. I cannot find in the wiring diagram what could be the one with 3 red wires.
Because superlock is not working in either right doors, I imagine the issue being SJ670 or SJ12 (does anyone knows is this splice?)
Also, could it be that in my case the “green” splice is in fact red?
In my vehicle there is also a tube protection near B-pillar I also removed it to check for the green splice - nothing.
Click image to enlarge
I will “replace” both splices anyway - when the weather gets a bit warmer here . 10-15°C is not totally pleasant - and the repair is not really urgent .
What are your thoughts? And… sorry for reviving this amazing topic.
14th May 2023 3:41 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
The motors themselves are known to fail.
When you see one moving weakly. Or you have to press the button twice. I would say it’s a motor fault.
Black/red splice is locking I think.
Red splice could be switch illumination for night time
14th May 2023 4:16 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Thanks for the reply Pete.
I thought that the weak motor could be a sign of bad splice (since low voltage/current would have being delivered to the motors)
Do the 2 motors from each lock fail usually at the same time? (Which would fail first?)
Is too coincidence that superlock stopped working in both doors (front and rear) somehow at the same time?
And… where is the green splice? Is it possible I don’t have it?
14th May 2023 4:32 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
Yeah. You are right to check out the black/red splice first.
The green wire splice powers the remote key receiver. So if the lock and unlock buttons don’t work on the key. Then ppl are advised to check the green wire splice.
14th May 2023 5:21 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Hi Pete,
According to the wiring diagram there is a green splice connecting the common wiring (superlock and lock motors) to zhe relay. That's the one i was searching for.however, i did a quick test now it appears that my rear right door does superlock (but does not lock)
And my front right door locks weakly (but does not superlock)
When i get back home i will further check the possibilities.
14th May 2023 5:30 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Sooo… I did some further tests on the matter. Here are the results. (Front Left Door = driver LHD)
On closing:
one click on the remote.
FLD = superlock
FRD = partially lock (weak movement of the lever) door still unlocked
RLD = superlock
RRD = superlock if manually locked (unlocked if not manually locked)
Two clicks on the remote
FLD = normal lock
FRD = normal lock (twice weak movement = one normal movement)
RLD = normal lock
RRD = normal lock
On opening:
one click
FLD = unlocked
FRD = normal lock
RLD = normal lock
RRD = normal lock
Two clicks
FLD = unlocked
FRD = unlocked
RLD = unlocked
RRD = normal lock
There is no superlock on the FRD.
Any thoughts?
Is there an easy way to test the locking motors individually? Door by door?
14th May 2023 6:24 pm
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 325
Hi Prette
I recently had both my key fobs not locking/unlocking the doors.
I successfully found the green wire splice and re-soldered it.
My sill and footwell carpet was very damp, it took me about a week to dry it using a small home dehumidifier running constantly in side the car with the doors closed..
You say you can't find the green wire splice? From my understanding it is in the passenger sill. So on my car, being a right hand drive, it was in the left hand side sill. So on a left hand drive car it should be in the right hand sill (front passenger sill).
I agree the plastic cover is hard to remove. It's even harder to replace as it covers both the front and rear door sills. I cut mine in half to make it easier to put back in. It was difficult to get around the B pillar.
I hope this helps you.
Blake
15th May 2023 3:49 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
For your FRD (twice weak movement = one normal movement), was the same symptom I had, and replacing the motor fixed it. (summer/winter temperature also had an effect) (and removing the door card/handle was enough to make it work)
The other one could possible be an issue with one of the 3 wires or the splice.
No there isn't really a sensible way of testing them.
This should really be in another thread.
15th May 2023 4:46 pm
Prette
Member Since: 16 Mar 2020
Location: Previously Stoke-ST4 (pre-pandemic), Mostly The Hague (NL) partially Lyngby (DK) certainly somewhere
Posts: 160
Thanks Pete, I will look into your points (and discover how hard is to replace the motors).
About moving this another thread, I thought that the issue was related. Apparently not. I have no idea how to do this move, I can only think some admin could do that.
Hi Prette
Did you manage to find the green splice? Or being your D3 LHD the green splice is not used?
Which of the 2 you listed was culprit one? 4 red/black wires - 2 each side or the other one with 3 red wires 2 to the front and on to back?
Best regards and thank youRegards, Robert
Only a closed filling station can prevent me from reaching my destination
1992 Santana 88"SWB petrol
1995 RRClassic 300Tdi
1999 D2 V8 manual coiler
2004 D2 Td5... SOLD!
2006 D3 V8 SE
7th Jul 2024 4:21 pm
Pugs97
Member Since: 15 Oct 2023
Location: Wicklow
Posts: 2
2008 Discovery 3 No sign of green/white wire splice point
Hi all,
Just wondering if anyone knows of a wiring change on the 2007 onwards version of the Discovery 3. Reason I am asking is because I cannot for the life of me find a splice point on the passenger sill panel front or back. But I do see 4 big green and white wires going front to rear and two small green and white wires, one from under passenger seat going towards rear and one from front to rear. My key fob does work as have tested it with a frequency reader and have had it tested professionally as well. So I have ruled out the key for now. As for lock/unlock switch on the dash that works as it should.
Is there anywhere else I should be looking or is there another known issue. As for Autodata there is nothing on central locking. Only for this forum you would be at a lost cause without it.
Thanks! 😁
26th Jul 2024 11:37 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10735
twisted pair of green wires under the seat are probably speakers.
26th Jul 2024 3:57 pm
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 325
This is what the green wire splice looked like on my 2006 D3. Front passenger sill. Buried in middle of loom of wires.
My sill was completely fill of water due to perished sunroof elbow behind CJB, behind glovebox.
Could anyone please confirm if this splice exists in LHD vehicles and, that being the case, if it's in the same place (LH door sill)?
In theory a LHD vehicle would have it in the RH side as it is a mirror, but doubt the went through the hassle of rewiring different body shells the other way round
My case is different.
Both remotes worked, now just one. In 2010 following a theft of a remote, I got a new one from the dealer who reprogrammed it. Now it's the new (from 2010) that failed.
Took it to a locksmith ad did a test. The emission was not good/irregular. Opened it, battery was good. Gave it some booster Oral B charge. and resoldered the battery contacts.
Locksmith confirmed emission was ok.
But... still did not open or close.
Might have it been that the faulty solder joint in battery contacts triggered some diagnostic error? Have to check with my Faultmate FCR reader... Will do as I go back to thefamily home (700 km away)
The original remote works perfectly and is as old as the disco. The 2nd one from 2010 is the one who dos weird things
Best regards
RobertRegards, Robert
Only a closed filling station can prevent me from reaching my destination
1992 Santana 88"SWB petrol
1995 RRClassic 300Tdi
1999 D2 V8 manual coiler
2004 D2 Td5... SOLD!
2006 D3 V8 SE
Last edited by robertofollia on 1st Aug 2024 9:45 am. Edited 1 time in total
1st Aug 2024 8:31 am
Naki Blake
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: Taranaki
Posts: 325
On left hand drive, green wire splice is in the right hand (front passenger) side. Mirror opposite to RHD vehicle.
If there is water in the sill, its very likely to cause an issue.
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