Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
Did mine the other day as I needed to be right next to the car to get the fob to work. Now I can open from metres away. I also had the sunroof leak about a year ago which I fixed using the method described elsewhere on this forum. I also removed part of the sponge at the bottom that partly caused it in the first place. I had a wet floor and only noticed it when I lifted the mat. Was wondering if anyone else on here believes the 2 things are connected? (No irony intended) This green and white junction is off the floor
1st Jan 2014 6:52 pm
HALLY
Member Since: 10 Jan 2014
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 6
Plastic trim covering wiring
Hi I'm going to attempt to find the splice to hopefully fix me central locking problem.i removed the trim but I'm unable to get the plastic cover off that is on top of the wires. Do I have to remove the seat to get this out?
Also is they a fuse I should be checking before I start stripping it down. Central locking works from in the car but both keys stopped working at the same time so I'm assuming I have the same problem as you. Son spilt drink behinds the passenger seat could this of caused it.
Any help would be appreciated as I've had nothing but problems with my first RRS 56 reg with 60,000 miles . Replaced alternator, lower arms, anti roll bar joints, and still need fixing is the air suspension , rear parking sensors, sorry go blabbering on but I've only had the car 4 month.
Should of got a warranty .
Any help would be appreciated
10th Jan 2014 4:29 am
Downhiller
Member Since: 25 Aug 2012
Location: surrey
Posts: 261
Hally, the plastic strip you say you can't get out is one piece and it runs the entire length of the front and rear foot wells. It is only held by the door seals, the lower seat belt pillar cap and vertical clips. Lift the door seals out of the way, pull the seat belt pillar cap off (very easy) and then get a flat screwdriver in somewhere under the plastic trim and begin to prise it out vertically.
All the things you've had done to your motor are the standard things to go wrong. Fixing it all at once will mean you've got a reliable car for a long time till that lot come round again.
10th Jan 2014 6:32 am
HALLY
Member Since: 10 Jan 2014
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 6
Sorted
Downhiller, I've managed to sort it thanks for the advice. Took about an hr and shredded my fingers but happy it sorted, got a lad who works at range rover coming Monday to sort my suspension and parking sensors out then hopefully it should be ok.
10th Jan 2014 1:21 pm
Glenn of Belgium
Member Since: 29 Jul 2013
Location: Zeebrugge
Posts: 108
Is the green wire cable witch schrink also in the 2007?
I couldn't find it
12th Jan 2014 2:06 pm
GK
Member Since: 04 Jan 2014
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 39
I had a go at my 2007 D3 today. I think I found the right connector but it had two green/white wires going in from the front, and 1 from the back. This makes it harder to cut out and join up. Do you think Ive found the right one?. I closed everything up again because I ran out of time, but I intend to have another go another day - been using the emergency key for 6 months and it's driving me mad!
13th Jan 2014 5:43 pm
HALLY
Member Since: 10 Jan 2014
Location: Hartlepool
Posts: 6
Photo
Not sure if you have the right wire I only had two green and white wires.
13th Jan 2014 7:12 pm
GK
Member Since: 04 Jan 2014
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 39
On Greedy's there looks to be three wires all coming from the same side.
13th Jan 2014 9:13 pm
bsm
Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: Ellikom
Posts: 232
My right hand side rear door is not locking with the key fob, unlocking is ok. It is working with the inside lever, but with the fob the lever is not going in deep enough, it seems to lack some power.
I want to look for the green/white wires too, I have a left hand side driver version, do I have to look on the left side for these wires?2017-...: Disco II Td5 auto, 1999, BAS remap, HD TC and auto box Ashcroft, Allisport IC, ACE, 2" lift only coils, BF goodrich KM2 265/70R17, FF front and rear bumper, TF steering guard and tree sliders, nanocom.
2013-2017: Disco 3 TDV6 HSE aut. of 2008, Britpart treesliders, IIDTool, RLD sump guard, BFG KM2 265/70R17, adj. rods, BAS remap + EGRs blanked, silicon IC hoses.
2010-2013: Disco II Td5 of 2000, ACE, front Bearmach HD coils, rear SLS, GG AT2
2nd Mar 2014 7:16 pm
GK
Member Since: 04 Jan 2014
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 39
It is always on the passenger side, so on a LHD it will be on the right. Good Luck!
2nd Mar 2014 10:39 pm
bsm
Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: Ellikom
Posts: 232
Thanks GK. 2017-...: Disco II Td5 auto, 1999, BAS remap, HD TC and auto box Ashcroft, Allisport IC, ACE, 2" lift only coils, BF goodrich KM2 265/70R17, FF front and rear bumper, TF steering guard and tree sliders, nanocom.
2013-2017: Disco 3 TDV6 HSE aut. of 2008, Britpart treesliders, IIDTool, RLD sump guard, BFG KM2 265/70R17, adj. rods, BAS remap + EGRs blanked, silicon IC hoses.
2010-2013: Disco II Td5 of 2000, ACE, front Bearmach HD coils, rear SLS, GG AT2
3rd Mar 2014 9:12 am
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1599
bsm, I suspect your door lock is failing, I have replaced 1 front and 1 rear on mine with the same symptoms as yours. The latch and locking motor are built as one unit.
This guide is for the front, however the rear is similar.
Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: Ellikom
Posts: 232
@Oswiperus: Could be, I don't have issues with my remote control, works from a quarter mile!2017-...: Disco II Td5 auto, 1999, BAS remap, HD TC and auto box Ashcroft, Allisport IC, ACE, 2" lift only coils, BF goodrich KM2 265/70R17, FF front and rear bumper, TF steering guard and tree sliders, nanocom.
2013-2017: Disco 3 TDV6 HSE aut. of 2008, Britpart treesliders, IIDTool, RLD sump guard, BFG KM2 265/70R17, adj. rods, BAS remap + EGRs blanked, silicon IC hoses.
2010-2013: Disco II Td5 of 2000, ACE, front Bearmach HD coils, rear SLS, GG AT2
3rd Mar 2014 9:36 pm
GK
Member Since: 04 Jan 2014
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 39
I had another go at mine today. Found the splice with three green/white wires, but on mine (a 2007 XS) one wire comes from the front, one from the back and one from under the seat. Anyway, cut the splice and and re-soldered. It wasn't easy cos I had to extend the wire from the back to make it reach. Very limited access.
Put it all back together, tried it - no different, so I'm back to square one. I didn't think it was the key fob because they both stopped working at the same time, and I split one open to look at the battery. Put my meter on it and it read 3V, same as a new battery.
I'm running out of ideas.
3rd Mar 2014 10:01 pm
GK
Member Since: 04 Jan 2014
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 39
Had another go at this today. Got the spare key fob which I had split open six months ago, and put some cardboard behind the battery, as suggested by someone on this forum, squeezed it tightly shut, and bingo! - it works perfectly. Even more surprising that this fob has never been re-charged in all that time.
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