Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1783
Check battery with engine not running - should be around 12.8 volts. Start vehicle and immediately check across battery - should be 14+ volts, if not possible alternator problem.
14th Jun 2020 9:32 am
shazlee
Member Since: 11 Dec 2018
Location: Ilford
Posts: 1
gstuart wrote:
Hi mate
That’s great and Thks as everything helps that’s for sure
Funny enough , the breakout box just turned up this morning , am now researching to understand what some of the terminals mean
Tac
Wspe
Sdm
Ts
Tc
Vpw plus and neg
Sil
am also wondering , surely if the abs and instrument Cluster which haS the 120ohms resisters , if they are unplugged should read 120 ohms
Also the instrument cluster must have 2 x 120 ohm resisters seeing the medium and high canbus goes in/ out of it
Looking forward to see what results come back from the ABS unit, without it being connected and also what ohms readings from just the connector itself
Click image to enlarge
Hi,
It looks Instrument dry soldering issue. we repair these cluster www.PBUH-TECH.CO.UK
12th Aug 2020 3:16 pm
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 585
Hi All
Sorry to hijack this post but there is so much valuable information here that its a shame to repeat/lose any of it.
So im having the same problem with cluster lighting up like a xmas tree...temp gauge in red..hazards etc.
Cluster has been sent away and returned from repair place but still the same...have spoken with them and they assure me that it has been repaired and tested so im reluctantly ruling that out for now..
Bit of background...had to strip all back end and replace all rear suspension arms,shoes etc including new struts.Lots of welding was needed on sills and rear crossmember etc.All done and put back together but when i tried to start,nothing...just the IC problems.
NOW...i stupidly started welding without disconnecting the battery I did remove it after i realised but i had already started....i also knicked a few wires in the rear loom but re-soldered them and have thoroughly checked all the loom and cannot find any more breaks.
following Gstuarts excellent guide i have checked via a brfeakout box attached to obd socket, pins 3+11 (60 ohms) but pins 6+14 im getting 123ohms!
all my grounds have passed testing and im getting battery voltage at pins 16-4 and 16-5
I have dissconnected abs connector and tested pins 14 -35 but getting 'OL' so i believe that is an issues as should be getting 120 ohms if im correct?
Im really starting to get very disheartend now as worked so hard to get her back on the road as she has a lot of sentimental value so dont want to scrap becaus eof a wiring issue.
Any help will be greatly received
17th May 2023 2:53 pm
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 585
I donnt have any P OR C related codes on U based ones....
Can i loop out the abs and park brake module to see if its between them or those that are causing the issue?
18th May 2023 10:50 am
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 585
Is it possible to fry both the parking brake module (that works) AND the ABS module?
PLEASE,anyone??
18th May 2023 4:47 pm
1784
Member Since: 04 Sep 2009
Location: Almunge
Posts: 136
See this thread about bypassing the park brake module.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/d3-handbrake-module-204668.html
Are you confident the broken wires were correctly joined back together, nothing cross connected?Defender 110 SE 2021, Tasman Blue
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18th May 2023 7:40 pm
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 585
Thankyou for reply...im almost positive that all is good ref wiring.....colours match etc...
Will try and bypass epbm and see what that reveals
18th May 2023 7:48 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
A happy ending for the OP but not so much for the thread..
Hi all
I've just spent the last hour and a half, very carefully reading each post on this thread (and yes I have the exact same issue; Dash lighting up, temp gauge in red, rev counter not working, hazards going off, and car won't start)..
some very very thoughtful, helpful and valuable posts - my personal thanks to gstuart, globetrotter and everyone else that contributed to this thread. This kind of thread is the proof of real value and kind heartedness of people taking their time out to help others and makes being a member of a Forum such a delight.
timmyt79 - did you manage to make any progress?
Briscoe05 - when you say rear plastic fold down box,, is that the one inside the car where the jack is usually stored?
thanks all.
18th May 2023 8:16 pm
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 585
Agree therew has been some amazing and valuable posts regarding this..some of which i hope will resolve my issues!
Not made any further progress this evening but will try to bypass the EPB tomorrow and see what that shows....
Going to have a much needed weekend away in motorhome though and then on a work related course for a week so may be a delay in updates.
18th May 2023 8:22 pm
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
No worries timmyt79, wishing you well with it. I shall be working on mine on Sunday, I have a whole list of things to try from this thread alone.
I will keep this thread updated with my results.
Enjoy you weekend away, rest well.
18th May 2023 10:05 pm
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 585
Thanks for the support And good luck yourself,im sure between us all we can keep these beauties on the road!
What issues are you having by the way?
19th May 2023 9:52 am
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
Hi timmyt79 - you are most welcome. As said before the gratitude on this forum alongside the willingness of people wanting to help others is second to none!
Mine is one that I have recently purchased and the last owner had the car stood outside the garage for 18 months. It went in for an air compressor change, but then I believe it just got left.
Upon bringing her home, I ordered a new battery from Tanya, new gas struts for the bonnet. The TCCM was fried so got a replacement.
The car won't start, get the hazards going off on key in ignition, as well as temp gauge on high, and a load of errors on the dash (parking brake error, transmission fault, etc).
I think it's going to be a CAN BUS issue, as not all the HCAN modules are showing on the IID Tool scan AND the replacement TCCM calibration fails, thus suggesting that the HCAN isn't communicating.
Yesterday I learned a lot about the CAN and that was from this thread, so will be using all that good info to have a bash at it.
will keep you posted - promise
19th May 2023 10:10 am
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 585
Appears we are almost in exactly the same boat!
MIne was fine until i stripped the rear end and replaced my rotten sills after mot failure (forgetting of course to disconnect the battery before i started welding )
So i now have a disco 'brick' with all new rear suspension components inc bags,fully repaired and strenthened sills,fully dinitrolled underneath!
Can i ask how you determined you TCCM was fried? I have looked over all my wiring and even taken it apart and all was dry with no signs of any corrosion but it still could be a possibility.
I am leaning more toward the EPB module though as this was removed and cables replaced and was in vicinity of alot of work/rust removal going on.
19th May 2023 10:47 am
onetwentie
Member Since: 25 May 2020
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 61
We do indeed seem to be in a similar predicament!
I wouldn't know where to start with welding sills, though I have a small welder now!
Regarding your wiring and the welding, why would not disconnecting the battery matter? is it because you can fry the fuses?
Re the TCCM it is very easy to check..
Remove the battery, you will see a plastic box behind the battery (towards the firewall)
Remove this plastic cover and you will see an aluminium unit. that has 3 clips on it.
Remove the clips and remove the unit.
You can open this unit by prising open the tabs on the back of it, once inside you can inspect it for anything that looks fried/melted.
Also I was thinking about your car, worst case you could always replace the looms with some from a donor car, no?
HTH so please feel free to reach out. Also I have the IID tool so happy to help in any way I can.
19th May 2023 11:12 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13649
Hi
Hope this may also help, sorry if you’ve already seen this , looks like it’s canbus high where the error is, if it’s between pins 6-14
Canbus test
With both battery leads disconnected from the battery posts
Multimeter set to ohms, ( TP Is just short for test probe from ur multimeter )
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14 , read ohms ( should read around 60 Ohms)
TP to pin 3 other TP to pin 11, read ohms ( should read around 60 Ohms)
Reconnect battery, ign off, meter set to Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP pin 4 Read Vdc ( should be around 2.5 Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 4 Read dc ( should be around 2.5 Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14 read Vdc
Pin 16 will be your battery voltage
Pin 1
Pin 2
Pin 3 - medium canbus ( high side )
Pin 4 - chassis ground
Pin 5 - signal ground
Pin 6 - high canbus ( high side )
Pin 7
Pin 8 - transmission module
Pin 9 - ABS module
Pin 10
Pin 11 - medium canbus ( low side )
Pin 12 - restraint control module
Pin 13
Pin 14 - high canbus ( low side )
Pin 15
Pin 16 battery voltage
Plus 1 with regards to checking out the ECM and TCM modules behind the battery module
There also some earths that these and other modules use throughout the vehicle
Some behind the passenger side wheel arch liner , also another one behind the drivers side wheel arch liner , behind headlights etc
Will find a picture for u to show earth connections
Last edited by gstuart on 19th May 2023 12:48 pm. Edited 3 times in total
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I did remove it after i realised but i had already started....i also knicked a few wires in the rear loom but re-soldered them and have thoroughly checked all the loom and cannot find any more breaks.
