Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
gstuart wrote:
Hi
Am no where near as knowledgeable as the other members here so they can correct me if this test would be useful or not
But would it be useful to test the hi/low canbus ohms readings to see if it’s ok
remove the battery , using a multimeter set to ohms and check the Resistance, between
PIN 3 and 11
PIN 6 and PIN 14
Should be 60 ohms on each test
Just clutching at straws and just an idea
Ref ur light error, have u fitted internal Leds
Also read ref the instrument cluster
There’s a plug on the bottom right. Try to move a it a little.
If the problem is from this plug, cluster will go on and off as you touch the plug.
Hopefully u can soon resolve the issue
Hi mate, ref clocks there is only 1 big plug central to the clocks and all appears fine. Ref the ohms check is that on the main ecu? Behind the tcu?
20th May 2020 8:35 am
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
rangehelper wrote:
Hi, Briscoe05
If the dashboard is serviceable, then you need to look for damage to the electrical wiring (can-bus) (yellow-black twisted wires). In the thresholds, in the harness under the car. Watch carefully with your hands and eyes. I'm sorry I can't help you. If I were in the UK...... it certainly would have helped.
Hi rangehelper, I checked the wire in your photo yesterday and disconnect the plugs and reconnect. Still no different thank you for that.
Someone said there is some wire inside passenger side wing behind the arch liner?
Thanks nick
20th May 2020 8:38 am
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
Hot Tub wrote:
Have you a second key Do you hear any noises from solenoid, fuel pump when ignition is turned on just a couple of thoughts might point in the right direction.
No nothing mate, just clicking from relays behind the glove box
20th May 2020 8:44 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Briscoe05 wrote:
gstuart wrote:
Hi
Am no where near as knowledgeable as the other members here so they can correct me if this test would be useful or not
But would it be useful to test the hi/low canbus ohms readings to see if it’s ok
remove the battery , using a multimeter set to ohms and check the Resistance, between
PIN 3 and 11
PIN 6 and PIN 14
Should be 60 ohms on each test
Just clutching at straws and just an idea
Ref ur light error, have u fitted internal Leds
Also read ref the instrument cluster
There’s a plug on the bottom right. Try to move a it a little.
If the problem is from this plug, cluster will go on and off as you touch the plug.
Hopefully u can soon resolve the issue
Hi mate, ref clocks there is only 1 big plug central to the clocks and all appears fine. Ref the ohms check is that on the main ecu? Behind the tcu?
Hiya
Apologises as I should have said , ok ref the instrument panel
It’s the OBD2 socket , enclosed a basic number layout , will get a better one for u
Just need to disconnect ur main battery , then set multimeter onto ohms
It’s just on the off chance to test ur canbus system and if it’s ok
Last edited by gstuart on 20th May 2020 10:11 am. Edited 1 time in total
20th May 2020 10:01 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Found a better picture , as u look at the connector numbers , the last number tells u the PIN number
so battery disconnected , meter on ohms, should have 60ohms between those numbered pins
PIN 3 and Pin 11
PIN 6 and PIN 14
Hope it helps
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
20th May 2020 10:09 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Hope it makes life easier to just show the PIN numbers for u
Click image to enlarge
20th May 2020 10:16 am
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
Ah ha, eureka moment. This may make some sense. If I plug the diagnostic machine in to the obd port and do an obd scan it doesnt connect I get a communication failure. I have to access it via the cable and manually selecting vehicle make model etc then it will scan for errors.
Thanks for this I will check it out later on and post back the results.
Cheers for you help.
20th May 2020 6:05 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Ur so welcome and hope the little bit of info contributed with everyone else’s will help and indeed Plse let us know how u get on
Did look and on the low canbus the ohms resisters are in a central junction box and instrument panel
Hi canbus the ohms resisters are in the instrument panel and ABS module
Will be interesting to see what u find in the terms of ohm readings
21st May 2020 2:09 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Briscoe05 wrote:
rangehelper wrote:
Hi, Briscoe05
If the dashboard is serviceable, then you need to look for damage to the electrical wiring (can-bus) (yellow-black twisted wires). In the thresholds, in the harness under the car. Watch carefully with your hands and eyes. I'm sorry I can't help you. If I were in the UK...... it certainly would have helped.
Hi rangehelper, I checked the wire in your photo yesterday and disconnect the plugs and reconnect. Still no different thank you for that.
Someone said there is some wire inside passenger side wing behind the arch liner?
Thanks nick
Ref the wiring connectors
There’s some that run from the engine bay via the passengers side wheel arch, hidden behind the plastic liner
Another large connector near to the compressor , more near the upper wishbone
Hope that helps
21st May 2020 2:12 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Found the connectors that ref the low canbus
So the ohms resisters are , instrument panel and passenger side glove box central fuses
Alas pic shows LHD
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
21st May 2020 2:17 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Hi canbus circuit
Same again, one in the instrument panel, other in the ABS module
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
21st May 2020 2:24 pm
Dazz360
Member Since: 03 Sep 2016
Location: West Mids Walsall
Posts: 871
Have you checked the earthing strap behind the drivers front wheel going from started to chassis then to body panel as I had exactly the same problem just needed undoing, cleaning the tightening back up
Metal auto sump & fluid change (3 hrs)
LR door puddle projectors (10 mins)
Tinted Bonnet wind deflector (10 mins)
All Intercooler pipes and Tbolts (2hrs)
3 injectors replaced so far (30mins)
Sunroof drain pipes both sides 2.5 hrs)
Rear discs, shoes,pads,callipers,flexi hoses, rigid brake line, n/s upper hub carrier bush and rear n/s upper arm (13hrs over 2 days)
21st May 2020 11:11 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13657
Great call , as indeed always forget some of the simple things
Funny enough , was surprised to find that when I removed my front wheel arch liner to finish spraying the arches with Dinitrol
21st May 2020 11:20 pm
Briscoe05
Member Since: 25 Mar 2019
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 67
So earth strap looks ok.
I did the ohms check and pin 3 and pin 11 = 60 ohms
Pin 6 and 14 is 120 ohms?
22nd May 2020 7:50 pm
Hot Tub
Member Since: 15 Aug 2017
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 1071
Looks like you need to check what is connected between the two pins which give you 120 ohms if they should read 60 ohms. Not gone OC (open circuit) as would mega ohms. Need to confirm what healthy reading is. But you saying about having to connect else where would help support this area being the potential fault. Try google search for high resistance on these two terminals somebody will have been there before hopefully put it on the Net Welsh Collie Chauffeur Service To Barney & Rooney.
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Do you hear any noises from solenoid, fuel pump when ignition is turned on 
