Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Thats very posible. I did have my lights on when trying things with the D4 display and with the voltage to PWM module installed.
So again going to that wire snip with the original display for Discovery/Range Rover modes. I hope something like that may exist in the D4 display still. Otherwise I will install a potentiometer with a photocell and see what I can make work that directly cuts into the display illumination.
15th Jan 2020 6:45 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
I see you have an arial spliter to get a signal out the back of the radio. But where do you plug the new connection into? Does it go into the white FAKRA DAB input ?
I've been fitting this into a RRS. I needed to heat the windscreen demist duct with a heatgun to make a little bit of room at the back. I then screwed the screen in while the duct was hot. I put some thick card in as a temporary measure to try an allow for clearance.
2nd Feb 2020 5:15 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Illumination
Well with the D3 display, changing the dimmer had no effect. It was day time though (I had lights on).
The display responded to the light sensor under rev counter.
I have connected the red wire up to the D4 illumination pin. No effect either.
In D4 self test mode there a 4 data values for illumination. All blank -
Lights
Ambient light sensor voltage
backlight dimming duty
graphical illumination duty
These messages must be missing on the optical network (the D4 must have a different setup with its LCD dash)
8th Feb 2020 4:47 pm
John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 111
Great thread, been reading it almost through last page...
Assume its no solution for D4 DAB modul to work?
Do I need the GAP iid tool for editing ccf file. Believe they made a hack for this mod.
Since you have to tell the car that screen from D4 2010 is fitted, and get the reverse cam.
I have Nanocom.
Have my hand on a 2010 screen, so i`ll buy it anyway. My D3 screen has started flickering now and then. Guess it close do an end...
cheers.D3, MY06
20th Apr 2020 6:16 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Hi
yes you need the magic of the GAP IID for the rear camera to work.
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 111
Cheers.
Guess I have to wait.
Cant buy the GAP tool, just to do this mod...D3, MY06
20th Apr 2020 4:57 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Tiny update. I pulled my D4 nav out of my D3 to see if I can figure out something with illumination. I have the unit totally disassembled. Pin 8 on the D4 unit is 12v positive. And while pin 1 is labelled "illumination" on the D4 diagram, its in fact connected to pin 8 on the circuit board. This means that the digram is not exactly correct. I am hesitant to randomly apply voltage to the other pins in order to test if an voltage input on one could in some way trigger illumination.
It may be beneficial to find out what other brand vehicles these Denso nav units were used it, if any, and check those wiring diagrams. But for now this is all I have.
6th May 2020 1:17 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
On the backlight drive itself, could you see what method is used to dim it ?
Maybe when fitted to your d4 you could tell ? Ie voltage change to ? At night
Is it cathode or led ?
6th May 2020 2:41 am
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
I looked but I am not electronics wizard. Just know enough to be dangerous! I have a fiber loop installed in the truck as I plan to have this out for a while. So I still have the nav unit apart. I can take some really nice high-res pics if needed.
As for the display itself, I know I can buy new for $100 so its a pretty universal touch display. Sadly the display is sealed up enough that I dont want to take it apart and look. I want to guess its LED because unlink most cathode systems I have seen in laptops, there are no separate power cables. Usually the soft, insulated wires are found (white and pink is common). This instead carries everyone over ribbon. But IF the ribbons only carry power and the backlight inverter is actually in the display (not common) then it could be still be cathode.
6th May 2020 2:47 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Yeah take a pic of the display rear and wires if you can.
Thanks
I doubt this display it used else where except jaguar
Even the freelander one is different
6th May 2020 2:58 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Where do the white and grey wires in your picture go. ?
6th May 2020 3:00 am
matgriff
Member Since: 16 Sep 2019
Location: Newcastle Under Lyme, Staffs
Posts: 171
GBRover wrote:
Tiny update. I pulled my D4 nav out of my D3 to see if I can figure out something with illumination. I have the unit totally disassembled. Pin 8 on the D4 unit is 12v positive. And while pin 1 is labelled "illumination" on the D4 diagram, its in fact connected to pin 8 on the circuit board. This means that the digram is not exactly correct. I am hesitant to randomly apply voltage to the other pins in order to test if an voltage input on one could in some way trigger illumination.
It may be beneficial to find out what other brand vehicles these Denso nav units were used it, if any, and check those wiring diagrams. But for now this is all I have.
Hi, just be careful here when you say the diagram is wrong. Normally on "dual in parallel" connectors & integrated circuits pin 1 is opposite pin 14, not as you've shown here.... so taking pin 1 it would count down to pin 7 and then pin 8 starts on the opposite side and counts up to pin 14.
So looking at the bottom side of the connector here, on the top side pin 1 would normally be identified by a number 1 or more likely just a smaller marker on the PCB, can you see that ?
Of course it could be that they have broken with convention here, but the above layout is an accepted industry standard.
Regards
Mat2005 TDV6 SE Auto
Cairns Blue
6th May 2020 7:31 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Matt. Phew!
I have my red wire connected up to Pin 1 and haven't noticed any bad effects. (Like the dash lights being stuck on)
Click image to enlarge
It doesn't do anything though, just like it doesn't do anything with a D3 display
....
..
6th May 2020 11:18 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
matgriff wrote:
Normally on "dual in parallel" connectors & integrated circuits pin 1 is opposite pin 14, not as you've shown here.... so taking pin 1 it would count down to pin 7 and then pin 8 starts on the opposite side and counts up to pin 14.
Do I missing the point here? Yesterday I did change my D3 for a D4 screen and doing so, I noted /write down all the plugs related to the adaption..
On a LR 20 pin plug, pin 1 is opposite to 11 and 10 opposite to 20
On a 32 pin plug, pin 1 is opposite Pin 17 and 16 opposite pin 32Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
6th May 2020 8:28 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Pete K wrote:
Click image to enlarge
Looking at this picture and the MOST plug..
Since I have the MOST plug with blue tape plugged in the Radio unit and the other in the D4 nav...
AND despite the latest Bluetooth update, I have no phonebook in de D4 screen selectable
(On the radio unit, there is a phone book...and numbers are selectable on the radio unit.)
is the blue taped MOST plug the one who need to be plugged in into the D4 screen? To make the screen phonebook work?Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
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