Member Since: 03 Feb 2009
Location: Colchester
Posts: 501
Just completed the install. I had now nav before fitting, now I just need o enable 4x4 info and reverse cam. I still need to connect the pulse wire from the abs module, where is this btw. Anyway, here is a pic
Current: D3 commercial
Past: but not forgotten D3 HSE x2, 5 TD5 disco2's, 1 200tdi disco1, 2 300tdi disco1 one of which was a commercial, Off roader with a rather large spec, ARB's and big travel suspension to name a few.
Pajero SWB 2.8 for off road playdays
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYBx3SCl8vs check this for laughs
6th Jan 2019 5:55 pm
DaveyLC
Member Since: 25 Jul 2018
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 19
jonnybgud wrote:
Just installed d4 nav in a GS with a lowline audio system...
I used a Range Rover Sport Lowline headunit (model vux500510) as they have an optic most bus (unlike the disco lowline unit) and a built in amplifier, swapped the front panel with that from a disco highline unit so it fitted the d3 climate panel and H trim. Used my iidtool to alter ccf file, enabled high multimedia, BT_Dock... Optic mostbus came alive on the RRS headunit.
Cut the cubby pocket out of the dash, installed the d4/RRS screen, wired up as described by Flacks guide
Hi Jonny,
I'm in the same boat as you (poverty spec car)! I've acquired the D4 display and I'm waiting for the right RRS headunit but I'm very interested in the guide for cutting the cubby, this is the only bit that gives me jitters
Do you know where it please?
Thanks
5th Jun 2019 2:01 pm
DaveyLC
Member Since: 25 Jul 2018
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 19
So I now have a VUX500510 and decided to test it last night.
When I plugged in the headunit it worked fine, the LED lit up in the MOST optics on the head unit and when I plugged the screen in it came to life and I could control the radio stations etc.
HOWEVER there was no sound until I started the engine and the speakers came alive but then the MOST bus light went out and the screen stopped working.
I assume I need to configure the car with my IIDTool, does anyone have a definitive guide to what I need to enable/disable please
10th Jul 2019 8:43 am
DaveyLC
Member Since: 25 Jul 2018
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 19
For anyone who is interested I'm going to attempt to reproduce the 14pin connector on my 3d printer..
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10th Jul 2019 6:04 pm
Skyggedans
Member Since: 10 Jul 2019
Location: Poland
Posts: 3
well if you have a model of that connector I could try, i have a zortrax m200 so the quality should be decent, pm me if you are interested.
10th Jul 2019 8:33 pm
DaveyLC
Member Since: 25 Jul 2018
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 19
You're welcome to the STL file, I need to adjust the central hole so the 2x7 pin strip goes in the right place,
11th Jul 2019 6:30 am
DaveyLC
Member Since: 25 Jul 2018
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 19
The evolution of design
12th Jul 2019 9:30 am
timmyt79
Member Since: 18 Oct 2016
Location: Pemrokeshire
Posts: 589
Dickydisco wrote:
Just completed the install. I had now nav before fitting, now I just need o enable 4x4 info and reverse cam. I still need to connect the pulse wire from the abs module, where is this btw. Anyway, here is a pic
Well done
Did you look into getting teh DAB module working at all?
20th Jul 2019 6:28 pm
rpp
Member Since: 19 Nov 2016
Location: Warsaw
Posts: 1
Has anyone solved the problem with the automatic brightness of the screen?
I have read the whole thread but found no solution. Is it possible to add some extra sensor as in the case of the D3 screen in RRS mode?
5th Jan 2020 4:03 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
As far as screen brightness, I have an idea and I am working on a possible solution but I have to get mine installed first. The D4 does use PWM for brightness with 8 to 12v as scale. But I am pretty sure the Disco 3 does also. Someone mentioned that there is no voltage reading shown for the sensor. In my stock D3 this is the same, no voltage reading. But I do have two "duty" readings. Duty usually means PWM. With all that said, I bought a voltage to PWM module that I want to possibly test out. So if the D3 does use simple voltage to regulate and the D4 uses PWM then the module may do the trick to convert it.
Anyway... So today I decided to do a test setup of my D4 display and "portable audio module". I spliced into the MOST network for the portable audio and all was well (network was fine, audio module powered up to relay MOST data). Just wires about, no actually fitting yet.
But I ran into two problems. Before I even spliced the MOST/setup the audio module I had an issue with audio control. I have two options shown. Radio and AUX. When on radio, all is well. I was surprised to see song names come up on the display selections. I can change stations, etc. All good. If I select AUX is switches over. But then no matter what I do its stuck on AUX - just the display. I can still change over with the radio's physical button. But the display will never allow me to change back. Now if I set the radio to FM and power it off I can even power it back on by pressing radio on the display, radio comes on and it says on FM but the display is still stuck on AUX. Anyone else have this issue?
Second issue is the portable audio does not show as a selection. So I think that means I need to update the nav unit configuration (CCF or whatever)? Just wondering as I had hope it would just show up on its own. So this seems to tell me the D4 this came from probably did not have the "iPod" portable audio module installed. Or maybe my MOST location was no good. I dont know if the MOST network has to have things in certain spots on the chain.
Other than those items, all worked fine. And wow is this display faster! I do know this came from a D4 with a backup camera so I will be adding that later also. It shows on the display as greyed out though but configuration shows its fitted.
So many thanks for all the info on this. I did read it all. And I hope when I am done I can contribute a couple more tid-bits including a slim change of getting voice commands working again.
7th Jan 2020 10:25 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
The Full Fat range rover uses voltage to control the brightness. The D3 doesn't (it's a message from the instrument pack)
(the RR display part is the same, just with more hard buttons)
8th Jan 2020 5:25 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
The Disco 4 used PWM, at least it says so in the tech section. Driven from the CJB.
As for the Disco 3, I am not certain its a "message". I mean maybe it is and the illumination wire is ignored, but today I used a basic meter to check the voltage at the illumination wire and it did go up and down with dial change. My meter is to basic to tell if its PWM signal. And like I said, it could be ignored altogether. Is there any tech source that is definitive on this?
And in other news my basic install is done for now. I still have the AUX input glitch. If the vehicle powers down long enough and I have radio selected instead of AUX its fine. If AUX was last used, the screen will be on that and still stuck unless I power it down on some other source. A bit weird and something I would like to resolve. I did not get the portable audio module (iPod) hooked up yet in this final install.
The low fuel message on display was nice and surprising. Also being able to use the display for calling is nifty. Still have the D3 BT module installed, with my overland setup its a bit of work to get that module swapped. The response of the system is amazing, so much faster than the D3 display. Touch input is much better too, seems a lot more sensitive. I am still going to look into illumination, its so bright. These display are not specific to Rover, so I have to bet something can be changed somewhere to get it to work.
15th Jan 2020 3:15 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
Are you monitoring the red wire for this illumination signal ?
If you look at the bottom of the rev counter there are 2 clear LED type things.
One the alarm red LED. The other is a light sensor. If you shine a torch on it, the D3 nav screen will brighten. I don't think the signal on the red wire changes as a result of this
EDIT: The D4 has the light sensor in the middle of the dash, (to the left of the clock)
Last edited by Pete K on 19th Jan 2020 11:11 am. Edited 1 time in total
15th Jan 2020 12:13 pm
GBRover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2020
Location: Green Bay, WI
Posts: 37
Yes, the red wire. My D3 nav screen did adjust with the dial also. I suspected the light sensor augmented the dial. This was the same way my BMW worked. Dial set overall brightness with a photocell that adjusted LCD display brightness/contrast. The hope was that while the photocell function may be lost the basically illumination could be still set. It may be some time before I dive back into it, but I am going to open the D4 display and trace the illumination input to see what I can find. Would love there to be a basic jumper/dip switch to manually override anything that was originally carried on the network. Since the D4 has no CAN input at all I think we have to assume illumination is carried over MOST somehow - even the diagrams do not show a wire going to illumination on the D4, just ID the pin at number 1.
Click image to enlarge
15th Jan 2020 3:00 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10676
I think the way it works in the dimmer / red wire is there for night mode, when the external lights are on, to dim the screen.
The light sensor is there for day mode, in particular when the sun is shining on the dash, to increase display brightness. This is the common complaint.
The D3 display had a yellow wire you could cut. This would put it in full size Range Rover mode. This would enable some functions (reverse camera / radio / phone) but would also ignore the data bus messages from the light sensor and instead rely on a 5V analogue input inside the unit (unconnected on D3)
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