Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14138
Hi Flack
So sorry mate , me and my big mouth ,
6th Jan 2020 5:43 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Pete K wrote:
a other jobbie which allows u to undo the crank bolt with massive force required
Regarding the massive force...... how did you do it?? Or how do others do this?
I have tried a few things now...very long bar, air tool, etc.. no movement...
As an extra challenge... the engine is out of the car... on a 450kg engine stand, but not sure it will hold on just 4 m 10 10.6 grade bolts in cast iron..
Any suggestions?Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
23rd Feb 2020 1:55 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2345
I found that heating the pulley bolt gently with a plumbers gas torch, reduced the torque necessary to undo it. Obviously you don’t do that when tightening the new bolt. You might be better off leaving the final torqueing of the bolt, until the engine is bolted back in the vehicle. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
Last edited by DN on 23rd Feb 2020 2:22 pm. Edited 1 time in total
23rd Feb 2020 2:17 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10684
long scaffold bar
engine was in car
23rd Feb 2020 2:17 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Thanks both of you..
Heating the bolt is a good idea.. will give that a try ( at the two engines I have separate from a car...)
Regarding final tightening, that is what I also thought... wait until the replacement engine is in the car again 😉Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
23rd Feb 2020 2:43 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Heating the bolt did the bolt job on the small-block on the stand today!
So, top tip Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
24th Feb 2020 1:48 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2345
Well done Harold D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
24th Feb 2020 3:58 pm
nbarna
Member Since: 05 Jan 2020
Location: Mikepercs
Posts: 6
I would like to request some help with how I can lock the crankshaft with a manual gearbox. (oil pump replacement)
In the timing locking pin set, the manual gearbox-locking tool looks very weak.
I saw that auto gearbox pin enough strength to hold the crank, but I have manual.
I tried to find the correct tool 303-1123, but it is hell expensive.
Is it a workable way that saw in Flack’s PDF manual?
I would advise if you have never done anything like this before then you need the proper kit to lock the crank.
That picture was taken 10 years ago when I was designing my own locking tool.
Ask on the board tools come up after a member has finished the oil pump change.
Flack
Last edited by Flack on 5th May 2020 10:47 am. Edited 1 time in total
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