Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
Hope you can clarify for me as changing oil pump shortly.
The Advanced Factors instructions say to add 20ml of oil into the new oil pump and rotate twice to help prime it. I'm worried that will create an oily mess for the next step of fitting the crank seal (dry) and the lower sump surface where you smear some gasket maker?
Alternatively - LR Time shows filling from the oil filter via the one-way supply valve which keeps everything dry for the oil pump installation.
Next dilemma - do I change the oil and oil filter at same time or get the car running with new oil pump and then change oil after that?
Thanks
6th Sep 2022 7:25 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10684
Do the LR time method then.
Not sure priming does a lot on these engines.
I guess you may as well change the oil at the same time if it’s due.
Always prime the pump with oil first, I just fill the hole in the pump and roatae the pump. I have only ever used sealent on the lower face once and that was because the gasket had damage.
I always use just grease to help the pump slide in to position. Make sure after you have the pump bolted in place to clean the crank before fitting the oil seal.
A lot of people also wait till the next morning before starting the engine, I have always started it as soon as I finished it, only had one seal leak and that was my fault.
Flack
6th Sep 2022 8:40 am
PerthDisco
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
Thanks - even in corners where they say use a 3mm bead no sealant?
I've got the proper tool to drive my seal in so ignore my PM Flack
6th Sep 2022 8:44 am
loanrangie
Member Since: 18 Jun 2017
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 700
I filled the pump and also just oiled the gaskets to help it slide on, no leaks or pressure errors in 20K klms.
7th Sep 2022 2:02 am
PerthDisco
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
Quick note to finish off.
Completed this task with every idler and tensioner and belts and waterpump replaced new which is no small job including the oil pump and taking every care in the world. I reckon 14 hours end to end as a first timer.
What I would add as a cautionary tale to anyone looking into this is that the **ONLY** way to secure the crank position is with the timing pin in the flywheel. Yes, you can skip this step and paint mark the crank pulley if you are only replacing the the timing belt and have the camshafts pins in place.
To undo the crank bolt I had the timing pin in the flywheel which holds absolutely rock solid and requires the mind bending task of removing the starter or at at least sliding it forward which I was able to do with the positive cable pulled out the way(alternator removed).
When I then put the breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt it started to undo and almost immediately the crank pulley started to rotate a little also. My first reaction and disbelief was that the timing pin had broken or slipped which I checked and it was absolutely perfect.
So, any use of a crank pulley holding tool at the front of the engine to streamline this step cannot be trusted as as soon as pressure is released with no woodruf key the crankshaft and pulley can rotate seperately.
So, any use of a crank pulley holding tool at the front of the engine to streamline this step cannot be trusted as as soon as pressure is released with no woodruf key the crankshaft and pulley can rotate seperately.
Not true, I have a tool that fits on the front of the crank, I have only once taken the starter off to do the oil pump and that was my own car, after that I made this tool. I have done hundreds of oil pumps over the last 15 years with it and not one crank has moved.
Flack
11th Sep 2022 8:17 am
PerthDisco
Member Since: 21 Jun 2010
Location: Perth
Posts: 87
OK - absolutely not going to dispute this huge experience! I think the explanation is that the crank is very reluctant to move and the pulley very happy to move. At the time that the bolt is torqued up the two items are as one part. Locking the pulley firm as you do holds it true and steady to get the bolt backed off 1/8 or 1/4 turn and then the two items are loose. The bolt comes out then without disturbing the crank position unless the bolt was heavily bound or gummed up. It certainly saves hours on the job doing this way and a lot of uncomfortable work.
When I backed off the bolt (with pin in) and the pulley started to rotate with the bolt I got such a fright. By the time you've done half a turn the bolt head is clear of the pulley and the two items are effectively loose.
It's both amazing and frightening this important part of the engine and the tensioner position works only on bolt tension with no physical locating position.
I have had occassions when I have removed the bolt and the crank pulley would not move, had to keep soaking it in WD40 and tapping it till it came loose it only needs a slight coating of rust to lock it on.
I was amazed when I first did one that there was no key on the crank, but dont get me wrong, if you are doing it for you're self then the crank locking pin is the only way to do it to make sure it does not move.
I did have one that moved, I found damage to the cooling fan bearing during one job and had to wait till the next day to get the part, When I built it all back up and did the two rotations the engine locked up.
The owner had moved the crank cleaning up the front of the engine that evening when I had left and did not tell me till the engine locked up , I had to then remove the starter to insert the locking pin.
Flack
12th Sep 2022 8:16 am
Daz69
Member Since: 11 Mar 2020
Location: Queenland
Posts: 29
Is the victor reinz crankshaft oil seal any good?
10th Mar 2023 5:22 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14138
I have fitted hundreds of the VR oil seals and only had one that leaked and that was on my own car, it was the first one I did without the tool.
All the rest have been fitted with the OEM tool's, its important not to twist the seal on the crankshaft and use the correct tool to insert it all the way in.
Advance Factors have the seal's.
Flack
10th Mar 2023 6:53 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14138
Member Since: 11 Mar 2020
Location: Queenland
Posts: 29
Thanks gstuart.
That one did slip by me, but I probably didn’t put the best option in to the search as well.
So the seal is ok but the fitting is important.
More to stress about
10th Mar 2023 7:07 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20842
I had a string of them all pop out. Never an issue before, and I put it down to a bad batch
But genuine only from then on. The genuine seals actually have an extra ridge on the outer edge of the seal, making it a stronger fitMy D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 11 Mar 2020
Location: Queenland
Posts: 29
Thanks dm
I have been told by my local indie that he only uses corteco seal and just found that one on AF thanks to gstuart link. My search on the af site only had the vr seal so glad I could look at the site from a different spot.
Now have to work out how to get it on properly without buying so much more expensive stuff.
Something to ponder
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, I had to then remove the starter to insert the locking pin.
