Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 197
Hiya Captain!
I can’t say for sure on lhd if it will be behind the battery but would think it will be because the brake master cylinder swaps sides so there wouldn’t be enough room for it and the main engine ecu to be on the left hand side. Mind you to check you only need to remove the battery cover and have a look, you will easily see if the tcm is there. Good luck.
3rd Jan 2022 7:19 pm
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
great progress Kevin.
i had to re-fit my crankseal as the earling one i fitted failed!, luckily i spotted it before running it without sufficient oil!
so i have now carried out the timing belt job twice lol.
i have also since last talking carried out the following;
- D4 commercial leather front seats fitted- manual heated items
- Terrafirma silicone intercooler hoses- upper and lower
- Free off actuator & apply high temp grease
- Replacement AFM (Genuine)
- Replacement MAP sensor (Genuine)
- Discs and pads all round- brakes cleaned and shims etc replaced
- Xenon headlights fitted
- D4 rear lights fitted
- LED side indicators fitted
Still have a low end power issue- gutless below 1800rpm, then great over that.
My immanent jobs are;
- D4 front airstruts to be fitted
- Genuine LR front lower arms
- HD anti-roll bar links
- Check upper front arms
- HD rear upper arms
- Check rear lower arms
- Fit lemforder rear tie links
- Check rear anit-roll bar links
- Replace crossover pipe with genuine LR item, including genuine LR gaskets and studs
This is going to be a challenge- i have a workshop and a vast amount of tools, but no ramps or pits so all will be carried out on the ground with axle stands or drive up ramps.
My main worry is the crossover pipe but i will take my time and we will see. I am hoping this will solve my low down power issue. end result is it needs doing.
then off for wheel alignment
Also need to address corrosion on the chassis and underbody- this will be done as i go.
I love my motor but it keeps me busy- financially and timely
4th Jan 2022 3:14 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 197
Hello Dave! Long time no hear, looks like you been a v.busy boy.
That's some list of bits done, great effort! You must have been cursing at having to re-do the oil seal. How long did it take to do oil pump and belts?
Have you got a fault code reader? I just wonder if you can narrow down the low end power loss by looking at live values at all? I guess failed crossover pipe would show up as lower boost maybe but also would think you'll be able to hear it and I read somewhere you'll get visible soot somewhere or something? Anyway, I do know from reading various posts here it is a pain of a job so a brave pill and plenty of patience required.
If you have the space I thoroughly recommend buying a lift. I have a 4 post but am tempted to get a 2 post as well. Rear upper arms is a faff but possible without a lift but as you're going to do crossover pipe as well I would say get a 2 post, take the body off then go for it. I suspect it would ultimately save time and a good deal of frustration. You can get a single phase 4t 2 post lift for about £1500.00. You will use it and not regret it. I remember wondering about justifying having the 4 post but have to say it has been one of the best things I ever bought, it has made car repair and servicing so much easier.
I wish you good luck with it.
Cheers.
4th Jan 2022 4:51 pm
Chris1573
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Stroud
Posts: 196
+1 on the lift. I REALLY REALLY want one. Unfortunately I need to build a garage first to put it in... (with a high roof).
4th Jan 2022 5:19 pm
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
Hi Kevin,
I do have an IID tool and have watched the live values- nothing really jumps out as being odd ( to my untrained eye) ?
I love the idea of a lift, but due to the workshop being rented, and buildings near by going through planning by the farmer, i am not sure how long i have left there. it will be hard enough to move my equipment out and store else where let alone any other large equipment.
Plus a recent job change with a reduction of pay has not helped the idea either, otherwise i would be dropping the D3 off to a garage and paying them to change the crossover pipe- but thats how it is- so its down to me to do it
4th Jan 2022 11:16 pm
Mambo
Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: North Wales
Posts: 75
Hi Kev,
All i can say is WOW
What a refresh job you have done to your truck. Looking at all the work you've done the MOT should be the easy part. Took some time to digest the whole thread, but so worth the read.
Doubt Lipstick will ever be to that standard
She'll be a rough and ready 500yrd resurrection with me
6th Jan 2022 7:22 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 197
Thanks Mambo. It has been a bit of work but as long as the basics are good there is no reason why a rough car can’t be lifted to a good standard. A good clean makes an enormous difference and I believe that if you improve a car and have pride in it and take satisfaction from it then the rest is somehow less of a chore.
Mechanical repairs are not for everyone but if you can then why not do repairs yourself ? At the end of the day it is mostly just nuts and bolts. I’m sure you are doing yourself down, a 500 yard resurrection can easily be improved but it will take time. What I did was thoroughly look around the car, admittedly having a 4 post lift helps, I researched this forum and others for things to check then made a list of things that needed doing. Then I prioritised the list, so obvious bits first like oil and filter change, brakes etc so the basic bits are sound. After that, it is simply working through the list and adding anything that you spot as you work around the car.
I hope that helps and encourages you. Cheers
6th Jan 2022 8:50 am
Mambo
Member Since: 01 Jan 2022
Location: North Wales
Posts: 75
Hi Kev,
Yes i will be doing most of the work myself, over the years working on 200tdi/300tdi D1's and both the 10p and 15p TD5's Disco's as well as RRC/P38/F1/S111 as well as many other generic vehicular brands I have a half tidy toolkit and mechanical prowess but these are a whole new level, TBH i'm looking forward to the challenge, well at this early stage anyway, sounds good on this screen in front of me right now as I type this thinking i'm clever
Although the list in my head right now is mind boggling as Lipstick is my daily, and cant be parked up to tear apart. I keep finding yet more broken/inoperable things. I have my Haynes manual now and some more tools 3/8" flex head ratchet and 10" extension bar to suite to add the the already extremely heavy box of toy's, next is a ready doo'dab and the more I read the post's/threads you experienced owners have put up I'm definitely considering the GAP reader now.
Next task is to get a white board screwed to the side of the caravan and start a broken/inoperable list and another one with things that actually work/function as manufactured.
Then start my own on the go thread like this, to keep you guys updated on my trials/tribulations and out right failures
But thanks for your words of encouragement
6th Jan 2022 11:06 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 197
Good luck with it Mambo. Disco 1 & 2 had their own special challenges - mostly RUST, just like the RRC I owned. I was pretty good with the 3.9 V8 this new fangled electric everything on a D3 is light years away from what I was used to but take away the wires an engine is still just an engine and how it works is the same - it is still nuts and bolts. But the rust... on those early models never ending patch repairs, then replacements. Sills, rear cross member, radius arm mounts, body mounts, front inner wings, boot floor, front footwells, A post, B post, rear wheel arches (inner and outer), door shells the list just goes on and on and on..........
All of that said, it is very much a Land Rover thing. If you have the bug you have the bug and the reason we do it?
FUN
I made the V8 swim, I have had it in mud and ruts so deep I grounded on the chassis, I have covered it in mud, buried it in snow. I have cursed it, hated it and loved it. This is why we do it. I expect the D3 will do the same although I don't expect to off road in it like I did in the old Range Rover.
It is these experiences and the Land Rover people we meet whether online in this and other forum platforms or in real life that make the whole experience; this shared experience and never quit attitude can make for some truly amazing, spectacular and enduring achievements, memories and friendships. There are times when you question it, all of it. Then you remember - being frustrated by another break down but the joy of fixing it, receiving the help and encouragement of Land Rover owning friends and how much you have learned, being recovered or recovering others. I have been to places and done things I wouldn't have done were it not for Land Rovers. Keep the faith, keep on spannering - never quit!
6th Jan 2022 1:15 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 197
O.K. Back to business.
The big blue bus has been with me for almost a full year and so MOT time looms. With all the work I have done over the last year I am fairly confident an MOT shouldn't be a problem.... but you never know.
Anyway, confident or not, I though it might be an idea to give the Disco a quick going over to make sure everything I can see is working. FWIW you might find this helpful in checking your own D3, especially at this time of year when you are likely to really need it.
Luckily a Land Rover is high enough off the ground for most people to be able to get under it but a creeper is very useful here or for those of us lucky enough, a lift is a real boon.
So, easy stuff first:
Lights - side lights all round, dip beam fronts, main beam fronts. Front and rear fog lights. If you can't get a good reflection in a window or door get an assistant to check brake lights and reverse lights. An alternative is turn ignition on but don't start engine, select reverse and check lights. You can also wedge the brake pedal and check the brake lights.
Next, indicators. Check both sides individually. This makes sure that all bulbs and the switch are good. Then check hazard warning lights.
Wipers and washers are next. Make sure the wipers clear the screen effectively, juddering and lifting wipers should be replaced. Make sure you top up your washer bottle and don't forget to check the rear screen wash/wipe while you're at it - why wouldn't you? Be aware that headlamp washers may be mandatory depending on model and year - make sure the headlamp washers work or you might get a silly fail.
Have a walk around your car - look at the tyres, especially the inside shoulders. Is the tyre wear even and is the tread depth adequate? Another thing often missed is the tyre speed/load rating; are your tyres actually correct? Next look at the side walls of the tyres, are there any bulges, splits or other visible damage.
Inside the car, pull each seat belt out - all the way. Look for any frayed areas and check the operation of the inertia reels - do they lock? Plug each belt in to the buckle, make sure the buckles are secure and operate easily.
Check your seats - No, I am not mad, the security of the seats is part of the test. So, grab, push,pull each seat and check it is secure - including the third row if fitted.
Grab the steering wheel, push, and pull - up/down and side to side. It should be firm and secure.
Windscreen, should be clear and not damaged. Some small chips and cracks are permissible but a big crack or chip is a likely fail.
One problem testers have with most modern cars is the fact everything is hidden under plastic covers so there is not much for them to see.
YOU should check the bits testers can't. When was the last time you popped the cover off and looked at your brake master cylinder? If your brake fluid is black you need to change it but apart from that you need to look at the brake pipes and that there isn't rust around the mountings etc. It should be fine as it is a well protected area but why wouldn't you want to check it for your own peace of mind?
Look at power steering reservoir - is it up to the line? If not have you got a leak (check your steering rack). Check coolant level and washer fluid while you're there. Not part of the test really but worth checking.
Moving on and before you need to get under the car or lift it up:
Look at the state of your brake discs:
If your discs look ridged, rusty and generally nasty it could mean you need new discs and pads, significantly worn discs are a fail.
You can get some idea about the likely condition of your rear brake pipes by looking in the wheel arches. Raise the car up to offroad height, or if you can be bothered faffing about extended or super extended mode. You can see the brake pipes; if they are all rusty you're in trouble.
Lucky for me the rear brake pipes had been previously replaced in copper, but don't forget the bit of pipe clipped on the bottom rear suspension arms and also the flexible brake hoses.
Now it gets a bit more involved - you need to start looking at wheel bearings, suspension bushes, steering rack, ball joints and then the dreaded corrosion.
This is the steering rack - look for evidence of leaks at both ends. You'll get a better view if you remove the under trays.
To check wheel bearings, jack up each wheel, grab it top and bottom and feel for any play. if you can feel play or hear a slight knock then chances are it is a wheel bearing. If you grab the wheel at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and rock it you might feel play due to worn track rod ends (front) or toe link bushes (rear). Check all 4 wheels, a pain I know but you have to do it.
Bushes and ball joints are a bit more difficult to deal with. It is difficult to get the load off the suspension without a ramp and proper support. Trying to push/pull and lever the suspension is not recommended working off a jack or on an uneven or sloping surface - you have been warned. Largely, you will know if you have worn bushes because you'll hear the suspension knocking on uneven roads and the handling might be a bit wayward. Bushes and ball joints might also show up as tyre wear.
If you have crawled under your car have a look at each corner - you're looking at the brake calipers. Are there any signs of leaks? Also look at the CV boots/gaiters. Are they split? Same for the rubber ball joint covers - if split, possible fail.
Give the anti roll bar drop arms (front and rear, both sides) a good tug, if you can feel/hear play the bushes or ball joints need attention.
Seeing as you are under the car, reach up and grab the exhaust (make sure it isn't hot first!). Give it a good shake and look at the condition of all the mountings.
Have a gander at your propshaft, give it a wiggle. Too much movement says the centre bearing rubber is toast.
Have a little look at the front prop too. You can't see much but any obvious leaks or missing bolts could be a problem.
With the under trays in place, you can't see very much - nor can the MOT tester. I didn't remove any of the trays but I know there are no nasty surprises under there. If you haven't ever looked it is worth taking the time to do so, you'll want to check for engine or gearbox leaks for example.
The transfer box output (rear) is clearly visible in any event
Have a good look at your sills
Evidence of excessive corrosion is a problem. I've yet to remove the outer sill covers but thankfully the inner sills don't look too bad. Similarly, have a general poke about on the chassis.
The other thing I did today (and for the first time) was to lower and remove the spare wheel. The winch/hoist arrangement appeared to be working fine, no notchiness and the wheel was easily lowered to be removed. I suspect it has never been used and the date code on the tyre shows it is original. I gave it a bit of a clean up and thought I should check the pressure. 18psi is not going to do it! When was the last time you checked your spare? I recommend you do it ASAP because you just know if you don't the time you need it, it will be flat!
With the spare out, I had a gander at the boot floor. A little bit of light corrosion but overall I was quite happy with it.
I gave the winch wire a light coat of WD40 then put it all back.
As far as I can tell it should pass an MOT but you never know! Watch this space. I hope that gives you all some food for thought.
Last edited by classic kev on 10th Jan 2022 12:15 pm. Edited 1 time in total
8th Jan 2022 5:40 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 310
Nice walkthrough Kev, this should be (and for some of us is) a yearly routine. A thing that surprised me about the Disco is the lack of warning for broken bulbs. I had that on my 05 Touran, but never knew one of my rear lights were out until my dad told me.
8th Jan 2022 7:10 pm
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
good check list there Kev.
i have some corrosion treatment to get on with and checks before the MOT in June.
i managed to change my drivers side front lower arm with a genuine item, anti roll bar link- meyle HD and airstrut- (D4 2015 used item fitted with a push fit air fitting) on sunday. All bolts came out (a lot of persistence). new bolts fitted, torqued with the hub at standard height.
I also treated any corrosion in the area with rust stabilizer and coated with direct to metal paint. My plan is to also do the same on the passengers side in the next few days. just waiting for some anti roll bar D bushes, D bush bracket nuts and a 300nM torque wrench ( highest i have is 250nM)
What track rods do you think?
they vary a bit in price but i guess you get what you pay for? Meyle?
so whats next on yours ?
11th Jan 2022 2:54 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 197
Hello Dave! You have been busy.
I don't envy you rust treatment etc. I suppose prep and paint on treatment is less hassle than cut out and weld in new metal.
Well done on front arms, was that a difficult job? As you know I've done rear upper arms and expect at some time in the future I will do front arms.
Track rods..... not a bad job at all really but you will need to have a 4 wheel alignment after so I would get the other front arms done then track rods then alignment. As for which rods I suppose it is a question of what your budget is and what you will be doing with the car. If you're going to off road and use and abuse it then heavy duty (if available) may be better, less chance of bending them. If you're not going to be doing anything heavy standard ones will do.
I know what you mean about torque wrenches. I bought a 1/2" drive digital torque adapter from Machine Mart a couple of years ago, stick it on a ratchet or breaker bar and you have a torque wrench. It covers 30Nm - 360Nm and I have to say it is great but the only down side is it is quite tall ( say about a deep set socket) and can be a pain in tight spaces but worth a look.
As for what's next for me, I don't know. MOT test is Thursday. Hopefully there won't be anything requiring attention but you never know. If all of that is good I want to do the oil pump and timing belt. As I have had the car for a year now, I suppose an oil service is in order. Another job I want to investigate is replacing the glow plugs - a risky one; if they snap it becomes a major job - heads off and much harsh language. Mind you, I would maybe look at cleaning the inlet manifolds too because you just know they are going to be full of nastiness like the throttle body because of the EGR system.
Whatever I end up doing you know I'll post it here so watch this space.
11th Jan 2022 3:36 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13670
Plus 1 with regards to torque wrenches , also had to get another one when I done the rear upper wishbones , what a complete job that was
Handy as my next job will be the rear lower wishbones that were picked up as an advisory on my last MOT, really hope there not as difficult
Ah yes rust treatment , lol, think it took longer to prepare the chassis and underbody than the dinitrol treatment itself
Fingers crossed for the MOT kev and great write up for the check list
Ref those push in fittings , also replaced all my voss connections with the brass push in fittings and found them really good , plus made life a lot easier when I replaced my rear valve block
11th Jan 2022 3:48 pm
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
The lower arms where not too bad. i will need alignment any way due to the lower arms are adjustable.
i think i may go for Meyle- my budget is long gone lol.
I need to do the rear upper arms but as you said gstuart, my lower arms are on an advisory from last year so i will inspect them also whilst the suspension is disturbed.
my D3 has so much surface corrosion- a life in salty Scotland and poor prep by the previous applicator of the old coating that has acted like a cocoon for water and salt so i need to address it sooner rather than later.
Kev- Thursday- good luck, i am sure it will be fine The belts and oil pump job is an okay one- let me know if you want to borrow the timing belt kit heading to Brecon in April so may be able to sort something.
Glow plugs- i think i will look at those once i have done my other jobs- i have enough to break an fix at the moment.
I have bought a Sealey torque wrench- 60-330Nm for £70
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( highest i have is 250nM)
job that was
so i need to address it sooner rather than later.
