DISCO4.COM - View topic - My D3 journey begins

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 XS Auto Lugano Teal

Here's some pics of the spot lights and home made mounts, all finished, wired in and ready to go.

The modified front grille came out OK. Could be a little better but I don't think the slightly rough edges show that much, so it can stay as it is. I'll paint it to match the rest of the car at some point.

The mounts are a bit of gorilla engineering. I cut up some 5mm thick angle I had and made a clamping arrangement. Simple but quite effective. I don't know yet how stable the lamps will be but I'm fairly confident.

Wiring was nothing fancy. I used some convoluted tubing to hide and protect the wires, I think it looks quite tidy.

Relay and wiring tucked inside auxiliary battery box.

Auxiliary switch attached to dash; this was a bit of a fiddle but is OK. I will probably re-visit this as it is not completely how I want it.

Turning now to those pesky EGR valves. I replaced both valves just a couple of weeks ago and one has started playing up. First I lost power and had system fault and special programs off. I plugged in an old EGR actuator and this restored power and special programs but that irritating little yellow engine light was on.

I enquired about the valve under warranty. I was told I'd have to BUY another one, then send the faulty one back and when the manufacturer reimburses the supplier I get a refund! What a crock of

I rolled the dice and didn't buy OEM valves so the cost is not an issue but I wasn't very happy. Anyway, I decided I would remove the actuator/servo thing off the valve and then put on the one from the faulty valve I had already removed which appeared to be working. What a faff. Would probably have been just as quick to take the whole valve off. I completed my task and swapped out the actuator. The good news is the engine fires and runs and has plenty of power. The bad news is that little yellow light is on. I read the ecu and P0405-21 is there. The first time it was P0405-21 (2F) and today it is P0405-21 (25). I'm hoping it is just a faulty valve, if it's a wiring problem the chances of finding it will be slim. So, I'm going to brace myself for another foray in to the right hand EGR valve.

20th Jun 2021 10:04 am

DWDG

Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Bedford
Posts: 101

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Lugano Teal

Sounds like it is time to look at blanking the egrs and getting the coding done. I’m at the same point of thinking on mine and would be interested to know the costs. No issues but I can see it would be advantageous. 2007 Discovery 3 HSE Lugano Teal
2011 BMW 520d Touring Sophisticato Grey
2000 Porsche Boxster 2.7 Arena Red
2002 Porsche 911 3.6 C4 Cabriolet Artic Silver - sold last year
1987 Porsche 944S Black - sold last year
2006 Discovery 3 HSE Buckingham Blue - sold last year
2012 Ford Grand CMax Panther Black (wife’s) wish we’d sold that instead!

20th Jun 2021 7:08 pm

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

Hi DWDG, I don't know for sure what it costs for a software patch. I'm going to replace the right hand valve (again!) and see how it goes. A remap and EGR delete is a possibility for the future although I think I may do the oil pump first.

21st Jun 2021 7:30 am

dandam

Member Since: 06 May 2019
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 60

2007 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Vienna Green

I replaced the egr 3 times in 18 months, gave up, Bodsy came round, blanked them, used the patch to switch off the eml and threw on a remap - been great ever since 2007 D3 2.7TD SE - Vienna Green

21st Jun 2021 9:44 pm

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

Hi dandam, thanks for the heads up! I've ordered a new egr valve for the right hand side so I'll throw that on and see what happens but I suspect it is only a matter of time before I go the patch, blank and remap route.

22nd Jun 2021 6:28 am

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

It was all going so well and then.....

Not sure what's going on. The cruise control has suddenly stopped working. I'm hoping it is just the brake light switch but I think I may just pop the connectors off the ECU and give the pins a clean.

I also noticed within the last couple of days the revs fluctuate when coming off the throttle which makes no real sense to me but there is no slip or judder when giving it WOT but I did feel some slight judder coming up hill

. Not sure if this is the early signs of torque converter giving up or some other gearbox malady. If I'm really lucky, it may just be symptomatic of the faulty EGR valve on the right hand side.

The good news is, I have purchased another EGR valve that arrived this morning. Don't know when I'll get to changing it but certainly should be done this coming weekend. At least I know what's involved in doing the EGR valve - battered hands and a lesson in patience!

30th Jun 2021 9:28 am

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

I put the Disco on the ramp after work yesterday and got stuck in to changing the right hand EGR valve. I'm definitely getting better at EGR valves, didn't take anywhere near as long as the first time round and I didn't drop anything and even my hands came out unscathed - RESULT!

With the new valve installed I went for a very quick spin round the block. I had my IID tool plugged in and watched the EGR valves which both opened and closed simultaneously. The engine power was smoother and throttle response seemed slightly sharper. The cruise control is miraculously working again. I didn't really watch to see if the revs were fluctuating coming off the throttle but I'm sure I would have noticed if they were (maybe?). I didn't notice any judder or hesitation going up the steep hill to home so I'm hoping it was all down to a duff EGR valve.

Based on this experience I think I would urge caution if buying cheap Chinese EGR valves. The one I have just put in was a pattern part, allegedly made in Germany so I'll see how that goes.

That's all for now but I'm sure it won't be long before I'm back with my next fix. I still have 4 wheel alignment, air con regas and the oil pump to be done.

2nd Jul 2021 6:35 am

dandam

Member Since: 06 May 2019
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 60

If you haven't done already, make sure you check your sunroof drain pipes are clear - having discovered the normal passenger side swimming pool earlier this week I have just changed mine 2007 D3 2.7TD SE - Vienna Green

2nd Jul 2021 11:12 am

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

Dandam, thanks for the advice, unfortunately, the sunroof drains are clean and clear and no dampness/water in the passenger footwell.

2nd Jul 2021 11:54 am

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

I've been at it again! I decided I would do another partial transmission fluid change to see if that helped the worryingly torque converter looking rev fluctuations and a sudden shudder going up hill.

I did a partial fluid change back in March and the car has only done about 1200 miles since then so I drained it down, saw about 3.5l of rather dark looking fluid come out. Using my oil syringe I put about 2.5l of fresh transmission fluid in until it issued from the filler plug hole. Fired up the engine and cycled the gear selector then plugged in the IID tool and watched the trans oil temperature. Waited for 35deg C and removed the fill plug and topped up until the fluid started coming out.

All seems good. I went out for a quick spin, gearbox was alright but still some slight fluctuation in revs on the overrun. I decided to reset the gearbox adaptions and see if that made a difference. I had to go out and did a shortish trip, about 20 miles with some hills and moderate B road blasting and I have to say it's looking good so far, the revs didn't seem to fluctuate, no shudder on hills and I was trying to provoke it, gear shifts were smooth, no funny noises so I can only hope some fresh oil has improved things but it seems likely a new torque converter is going to be needed at some time in the relatively near future. I will change the gearbox oil again in a couple of months and reset the adaptions so I can be happy the gearbox has more new oil in it than old. Fingers crossed, toes and eyes too!

3rd Jul 2021 3:40 pm

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

Todays effort was a quick easy job, drop the diff oil front and back and renew. The oil at the back was not too bad and not much swarf on the magnet either. 1.1l of oil came out so that was all good. Needless to say 1.1l is what went back in.

The front diff was OK. The oil was a bit thicker and a deeper brown colour but again not too much on the magnet. Drained approximately 510ml so a little lower than the 600ml I was expecting but new oil added and that's that for a good while.

8th Jul 2021 9:34 am

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

Another weekend and another minor niggle identified......aaaaaaagggggggghhhhhhhhhh! Why do we do it?

This weeks' story..... I was looking at the rear tyres and the right hand side looks like it is scrubbing the inside shoulder, not convinced this is too much camber but a touch too much toe out looks favourite. I had made an enquiry in the week to see if I could get a 4 wheel alignment done but it seems nobody is interested. Either way I knew I would have to try and slacken the adjusters so that's what I did. The back end was not really too much bother. While I was at it I added a couple of turns to reduce the amount of toe on the right.

As it happens I had to pop out and on the way back decided to call in to the local garage to ask if they could make a number plate - unfortunately not; I also asked if they could do 4 wheel alignment - they can but farm it out to a local specialist, apparently price starts at £55.00 which sounds very good. At this point, it was suggested I should slacken off the front track rod adjusters to make sure they actually move because if they are seized, the cost of alignment goes up because it could take time to free off the adjusters. Anyway, drop it in on Wednesday and they'll get it sorted on Thursday. Sounds good to me!

Knowing I have released the rear toe links I set about checking out the front. At his point it dawned on me I haven't actually taken the time and trouble to check any of the wheel bearings. I used to do this almost out of habit with the old RRC so I can't say why I haven't done so with the Disco. Back end bearings are fine, no wiggling around. Checked the front, some very slight movement on the right hand side but it's not wheel bearing. It is the track rod at the rack end. So the dilemma.....

The play at the wheel is slight, maybe just enough for an MOT advisory, there is no discernible slack at the steering wheel and it appears to drive fine with no pulling, so do I get it tracked and set up as is or do I call off the 4 wheel alignment until I can change the track rod. Do I change just the one track rod or do I do both? If I ordered parts today, could I get them in time to do a track rod swap and make the 4 wheel alignment or do I just cancel the alignment and get around to it when I get round to it?

Decisions, decisions......

I decided I will order parts and hope they arrive in time so it looks like there is going to be some mid-week spannering. Once the wheel alignment is done I can get on and change the tyres and fit the Goodyear Wrangler Adventures I bought. If I remember I'll post pics as I work through it.

Nearly forgot - I'll be swapping out both track rods - if one is showing signs of wear it is probable the other won't be far behind!

Cheers

10th Jul 2021 3:21 pm

classic kev

Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207

The disco is still booked in for a 4 wheel alignment

After finding a little play in one track rod I decided to change the whole lot, both track rods including track rod ends and the gaiters. I ordered the parts from Advanced Factors; ordered Saturday, arrived lunchtime today. Great service as ever.

Anyway, I've never changed track rods before, the old RRC had a steering box, drag link and track rod so this was a first and I have to say what a breeze. This is not a difficult job and is easily done with just basic tools.

So here it is:

First, jack it up and pop the front wheel off. The wheel needs to come off to give best access to the ball joint. It might be possible to do the job with the wheel in place but it is so much easier to just take it off.

Remove the plastic shield at the front then you can get clear access to the rack end of the track rod. Cut the cable ties holding the gaiter/boot.

Assemble the new track rod and fit it up. Remember to count the number of turns it takes to remove the track rod end from the old rod and then put the new one together with the same number of turns. You could also just measure the distance of the track rod end from say the flat end of the rack end ball joint - you'll see what I mean if you ever do this little job.

New and old side by side

The track rods don't need to be super tight. The rack ends had flats on them to aid tightening but apparently not all do; also, if the flat is not in quite the right place for your spanner you'll need "plan B"