Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10388
There are loads of bolts holding the cover on.
Always miss a few. Have a feel around the edge and in the holes.
One to the side of the crank always annoys me
9th Jan 2022 8:58 pm
Register
Member Since: 29 Nov 2021
Location: SW London
Posts: 261
I think I have them all, but just revisiting Disco Mikey's thread notice I've left the water pump pulley on.
Not sure if that overlaps the timing belt cover, but I'll take a look in the light tomorrow.Everything's a hammer.
9th Jan 2022 9:04 pm
Register
Member Since: 29 Nov 2021
Location: SW London
Posts: 261
Self indulgent update with my photos, much the same as everyone else's.
Found the two bolts I'd missed on the timing cover, the two on the front in the recesses.
Made a fantasy attempt at removing the cover with coolant pipework in place, then resigned to a waterfall.
Novelty compression test whilst finding TDC to lock the cam pulleys.
I used a couple of 6mm drill bits which I hope will do the job (cheapskate).
A blob of paint on the crank pulley and pump casing (and garage floor).
Tensioner looks to have 'relaxed' a bit over the miles.
Removed both pulleys and the belt came off no problem. no evidence of decay, apart from stretching? I guess?
Ready to fit the new parts except for the dreaded oil pump challenge - 2005 6A - do I/don't I? No evidence of any leaking.
Stalled anyway as I need the pulley bolts, which I understand are use once and are on order.
PeteEverything's a hammer.
12th Jan 2022 8:46 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10388
You will need the flywheel lock tool if you are going to do the oil pump
1. To undo crank bolt
2. For reference as your paint mark disapears.
Make sure you do tensioner bolt to 25Nm? If not changing oil pump
12th Jan 2022 8:58 pm
Captain Crosscheck
Member Since: 03 Sep 2021
Location: Oslo
Posts: 311
+1 to Petes reply.
I would go for changing the oil pump. Yours is not the beefed up versjon, and that spells trouble. The job itself is easy enough, the worst bit is getting the starter out of the road
The old style pumps tend to break when they are put under tension with a new belt & tensioner, I would not leave that Oil pump on the car, it needs changing.
Flack
13th Jan 2022 9:48 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4704
As Flack says, don't leave that pump in place. The the new belt and tensioner will stress the mount with the very real risk of it collapsing causing very serious damage to your engine.
Besides, that pump will be tired now anyway, the replacement with the newer higher capacity pump will give you peace of mind.
Member Since: 25 Aug 2011
Location: Huddersfield
Posts: 170
On You tube. Its Landrover time will give you a good idea what is happening with your oil pump.
13th Jan 2022 11:42 am
Chris1573
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Stroud
Posts: 196
Register wrote:
Ready to fit the new parts except for the dreaded oil pump challenge - 2005 6A - do I/don't I? No evidence of any leaking.
Pete I have just done one and it was my first more involved job on the disco. It took me a day all in but I know that next time 4 hours tops. Yours is the old (weaker) version and with a fresh belt and tensioner on is when it will most likely shear off. So 100% do it.
The two bits that are most challenging for a first timer are the starter motor and the alternator bracket but once you have done it you'll see its not too bad. ratchet spanners and a few different spanner types / angled heads are good to have especially for 8/10/13 &15mm. Also a decent selection of extensions for your 1/4" & 3/8" ratchets including some wobbly ones.
I bought the cheap timing tool set on ebay for £25 the flywheel timing pin tool needed light sanding as it was a slightly tight to fit in the hole. I also elected to buy the flywheel locking tool by Laser as I did not feel comfortable torquing the crank bolt up on the timing tool. Although I know that most on here would disagree.
For peace of mind its worth a few hours of cursing
13th Jan 2022 1:54 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10388
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 516
That seller also offers the Laser branded version for a penny cheaper. I doubt there is any difference.
I felt happier using one on a manual but perhaps not so necessary on an automatic.
Register, if your belt has stretched your timing, by paint mark, will be out and you need the crankshaft timing tool. It will be a must any way if you change the oil pump, which, like others, I would encourage you to do.
I do not know if you have slackened off the bolts holding the adjustable camshaft wheels but when you fit the belt the wheels need to be rotated fully clockwise.
The Haynes manual cautions against slackening or tightening these bolts with only the timing pins to prevent the camshaft wheels turning. Instead a home made tool is recommended.
14th Jan 2022 8:09 pm
Chris1573
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Stroud
Posts: 196
Hi Pete that’s the one I got and it was in Laser packaging…
15th Jan 2022 6:32 am
Register
Member Since: 29 Nov 2021
Location: SW London
Posts: 261
Thanks all for the insight and advice.
Apologies for the late response.
I'm a subscriber to LR Time (thanks Latnutgub) and have seen the oil everywhere, YT post previously. Gotta love Vera.
I also took a look at the fly wheel locking options, thanks Chris and Ronald.
Prof, Flack, Captain C - I hear you all, so brace yourselves, as I've done something possibly unusual/odd/creative/downright stupid???
For a selection of the following reasons -
1. cheapskate who couldn't face another £200 (you spotted that Pete K)
2. lazy who couldn't face another day in the gutter
3. couldn't bare to see a working pump go to waste
4. sensitive sole who cares for the planet's resources (excuse EGR blanking )
5. horrific visions of rounding the 21mm nut on crankshaft - so small!
5. all of the above and others if pressed.
I got addicted to the line that the oil pump failure belongs to cars from 2007 onwards (not mine) as stated in many posts.
So, I did this with a piece of 6mm plate.
Be gentle with me.
PeteEverything's a hammer.
17th Jan 2022 9:21 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10388
For a second I thought genius.
Then realised you haven’t strengthen the bit that fails.
17th Jan 2022 9:28 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2298
I’m afraid that doing that, will not strengthen the area that fractures one iota. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
)
