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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
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We could really do with a sticky on how to change the oil pump on TDV6
I want to do mine in October.
Anyone got a link to a good thread?
I'm trying to find the seal part number to get one from LR dealer @ £6
EDIT: Found part number on ebay 1102415
DO I need to replace the crank bolt too? LR002458 ( should be M14 x 70 )
or do people not bother ?
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9th Oct 2017 11:48 am |
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NJSS
Member Since: 06 May 2009
Location: Catherington, Hampshire.
Posts: 10800
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Flack posted this, which you might find helpful:-
https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/us...oner~0.pdf
NJSS Am I Gammon or Woke ? - I neither know nor care.
2016 Discovery 4 Landmark
2011 Mercedes Benz SL350 (R230)
1973 MG B GT V8 - 3.9L John Eales engine, 5 speed R380 gearbox, since 1975.
1959 MGA roadster - 1.9L Peter Burgess Engine - 5 speed gearbox
Past LRs - Multiple FFRs, Discos & a Series I - some petrol, some diesel,
none Electric or H2 fuel cell - yet.
There are 10 types of people in this world: Those who understand binary, and those who don’t.
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9th Oct 2017 12:23 pm |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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Pete, I used Flack's guide for the pump and Robbie's (I think...?) for changing the belts. Both were very good.
I changed the crank bolt. Seemed a bit "hap'worth of tar" not to having gone to all that trouble.
I have a set of locking pins if you need New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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9th Oct 2017 2:23 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
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Yes you must change the bolt as its a stretch bolt .
Flack
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9th Oct 2017 3:05 pm |
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KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
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once the oil pump has been replaced do you need to change it again? do you change oil pump with every cam belt change?
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9th Oct 2017 5:15 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
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Thanks for the info guys.
KostasA - No.
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9th Oct 2017 5:35 pm |
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KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
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thanks Pete!
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9th Oct 2017 5:40 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
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I have read the guide thanks.
Does the alternator actually need removing ?
I assumed that plastic thing in the oil pump was transit packaging (to stop it all rattling about)
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10th Oct 2017 5:16 pm |
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DN
D3 Decade
Member Since: 23 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2344
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The mounting bracket for the alternator, that is bolted to the block, definitely needs removing, you can't get the oil pump off otherwise........ I found it best to completely disconnect and remove the alternator first. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
Last edited by DN on 10th Oct 2017 6:04 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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10th Oct 2017 5:54 pm |
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Flack
Member Since: 06 Sep 2006
Location: Preston Lancashire
Posts: 6308
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There are 5 bolts holding the alternator bracket to the engine block, also on the top inner bolt, there is a small heatsheild that you need to remove to get that bolt out, they are 10mm headed bolts and the heatsheild bolt is 8mm headed bolt. I have found on some cars that this heatsheild is missing.
Flack
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10th Oct 2017 6:04 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
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Thanks.
So the heatshield is the end of the manifold/EGR.
One 8mm bolt
Last edited by Pete K on 29th Oct 2017 5:23 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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10th Oct 2017 6:09 pm |
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KostasA
Member Since: 23 Aug 2015
Location: nairobi
Posts: 286
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Pete,
did you do it? managed to take any photos for sharing?
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14th Oct 2017 4:35 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10679
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I see Jaguar do a tool to lock the crank.
303-1123
It goes in where the alignment tool goes,
but has teeth on to grab the end of the flywheel
Be nice if a manufacture made some. Hint Hint !
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22nd Oct 2017 2:27 pm |
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Compusmentis
Member Since: 18 Feb 2016
Location: Effingham
Posts: 237
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My set has a pin for each can wheel, and a locking tool for the crank New gearbox & TC, 3 x front wheel bearings, belts changed, new oil pump, new battery, new rear prop, new front prop, new front diff, front arb refurbed, front cv boot kit, egr blank and BAS software patch, full rear suspension / drivelive rebuild, new front arms, LED trailer light fix, split charge.
Never had a 107, 90 or 127, but have had most of the rest!
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22nd Oct 2017 3:05 pm |
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