Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
So the cars in a yard dead
Cost 4k engine and 1k rear arms more than the car is worth
Got an Amazon v8 for so cheap I couldn’t turn it down as good as new imported amazing condition so cheap I’ll drive that for a while and see how it handles the trailer while keeping hold of the disco
I may just buy an old disco and swap the parts and run that in to the ground
Devastated tbh as I’d put so much in to the disco that’s died
They say it is the crank but they don’t know for sure - only way to find out is to remove the gear box but if it’s not the sensor then it’s redicukius amount bill
Don’t know why to do mate! Love the car but I’m stuck with why to do
Can’t remove the gear box I haven’t got a lift or anything decent just basic tools
Wondering if I should list it for sale see what I can get for it as it’s had LOADS of new parts and workDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
27th Jan 2024 10:55 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10678
So the D3 is at a family members house or still at garage ?
You don’t really need lifting equipment. Just an adult to help you.
Put a jack under the gearbox. Loosen bolts and lower the gearbox down on the jack.
Just need someone to Ballance the gearbox on the jack.
There are mobile mechanics on here. That maybe an option. At least you will have someone skilled and trustworthy.
27th Jan 2024 3:28 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Guess it’s worth a try worst case leave it disconnected if it doesn’t work it’s dead anyway mate good shout
This LC is slow and ugly and MPG is shocking
Rather have one of each hahDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
27th Jan 2024 4:02 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Pete - how many hours do you think it would take to drop the gear box please?
I’m just sorting recovery and getting info on how to do the job
CheersDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
29th Jan 2024 5:29 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10678
For a mechanic 2 hours.
For a diyer on a drive. 1 day. Maybe day and a half.
The delicate bits are the gearshift linkage. Mark the position with paint to make reassembly easier.
Maybe leave it in a known gear. (1st) if you can.
The clutch uses brake fluid so be wise to cap that somehow. Maybe a pipe clamp thing.
29th Jan 2024 6:06 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
The entire linkage and gear lever comes down with the box, don't attempt to disassemble it just remove the gear knob and the boot. If you have concerns about removal you could split the transfer case away from the box first, this would reduce the weight and the imbalance, making it more manageable if you are limited for jacks etc. Clamp the clutch hyd line, and you will need a pressure bleeder if you decide to put it back together, otherwise you'll never get the air out.
You're going to need help if you are limited for tools, and an array of wooden blocks will be useful. It can't be done in two hours as there is too much to be removed including the crossmember and fuel tank. The latter you might be able to support with straps but it needs pumping out first via the fuse box.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
29th Jan 2024 7:16 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10678
Why do u need to remove the fuel tank out of interest ?
As you say the Cross member needs to come out.
29th Jan 2024 9:02 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
You don't have to remove it but it's held by the transmission crossmember and sits very close to the transfer case. In any case the cradle needs to be dropped to access the crossmember bolts on that side! It's going to be in the way a bit, but if he pumps it out he could hold it with straps or a prop and try work around it.
Click image to enlarge
yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
29th Jan 2024 9:54 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10678
I got lucky when I removed the cross member.
The nuts were at the tank end.
Only issue was I dropped one into the tank cradle and had to fish it out with a magnet.
Chris. Take pictures so you know how it all goes back together.
30th Jan 2024 4:34 am
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Cars finally back home and ready to check out
By the looks of it it’s going to take a lot of time to remove the gear box all for one sensor and the possibility of it being a waste of time
So I’m wondering hypothetically speaking would it be best to get a sensor and a timing wheel on a drill and spin it next to the sensor? Even if it starts for a second I’ll know it’s worth taking parts then? Rather than removing everything to find it’s broke?
Hopefully this would be a solution!
ThanksDisco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
5th Feb 2024 11:41 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10678
As I said before, that won't get the engine started. At best you may get a different fault code which would lead to inconclusive thoughts.
I think your best bet it to try and undo the sensor bolt. See if the garage was telling the truth about the bolt being tight. Obviously don't knacker the bolt head if it is tight, but at least try and and get familiar with it.
I can't remember what exactly you need to do, but also consider removing the front prop and maybe exhaust too, as they will likely have to come of anyway if the gearbox does need to come off, and will hopefully give you more room to get to the sensor bolt
5th Feb 2024 12:43 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
If you are going to have a go at removing the sensor remember you will be working blind, as it is not possible to see it from below the turbo. A cheap endoscope camera is an absolute must here!!
Get the car safely raised and supported, but not too high as you will need all of your arms length to reach the cavity where the sensor lives.
Front prop needs to come off and the front diff needs to be lowered, so it's support bracket goes along with the side mount bolts. You might have remove the turbo drain pipe, as well as the turbo support brackets but see if you can get your hands in first. The exhaust stays in place.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Feb 2024 2:29 pm
cmb2020
Member Since: 08 Sep 2020
Location: Buckley, North Wales
Posts: 1150
Got an endoscope I’m going to raise the suspension and get under tomorrow see if I can fit the camera to see if there’s any visual damage to the sensor before removing anything. And get an idea of where to start
Professor are you saying it’s best to drop the diff and avoid removing the gear box?Disco 3 SE Manual 2005 V6 2.7
Buckley, North Wales
5th Feb 2024 3:45 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5043
You won't see any damage to the sensor, (unless the garage has botched it) and will be doing well if you see it at all!
The reason you need to drop the diff is just so you can get some access. Remove the N/S road wheel and the engine undertray. Mark the position of the drive shaft coupling to the flange, once you have undone the drive shaft bolts use a block of wood and hammer to shock it loose from the coupling. (be very careful here not to damage the joint!!) Place a jack under the diff to support it, then undo the support bracket, and finally the side mount bolts (mark them first) Lower the diff until it rests on the chassis.
If the drive shaft is causing you access woes you might have to remove it completely. If so mark the joint to the gearbox flange and undo the bolts. It can be awkward to get it out of the way, but if you remove the gearbox bottom mounting bolt, and, the crossmember bolts on the passenger side. You can use a lever to prise down the crossmember just enough allowing you to slide out the drive shaft.
Disconnect the oil temp sensor from the sump, unplug the crank sensor fly lead and remove the large black grommet from the sensor housing. You might have to remove the turbo drain pipe, but you should be able to very carefully flex it's corrugated section to one side, once the connection to the turbo has been released. You can remove the turbo support brackets but I'm not convinced this is of much help really.
Now you need to get the camera into the sensor housing so you can see what you are dealing with. You will see the torx bolt holding the sensor. If it's damaged take a screen shot and post it here before proceeding further. If it's OK you will need a long torx bit, around 100mm or thereabouts. Undo the torx bolt carefully and withdraw the sensor with the bolt. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE BOLT ON IT'S OWN. If you drop it the gearbox must come out to retrieve it!! Also note the orientation of the sensor as you remove it, this will help you relocate it more easily.
Replace the sensor and tighten it to 5Nm, reconnect the fly lead, temp sensor, and the turbo drain. Refit the drive shaft paying attention to the marks you made earlier. Use new bolts for the drive shaft as the old ones will snap when you attempt to torque them. Fit a new turbo drain gasket if you have disconnected it. Jack the diff back into position and refit the side mount bolts to the marks you made earlier and the support bracket. Refit the crossmember and gearbox mount bolts. I think the torx bolt holding the crank sensor is a T25, but the new ones are a different size, so best to have a set of bits available cheap from Amazon etc.
I think that should cover most of it and apologies if I've missed something. Good luck.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
5th Feb 2024 7:29 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10678
Once you have the oil pipe and wires reconnected you can attempt to start it. To see if you have fixed it.
Turn it off before anything gets hot
Last edited by Pete K on 5th Feb 2024 8:47 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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