jimmydunc
Member Since: 22 Feb 2010
Location: queensland
Posts: 18
  
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Thanks to Jidea (earlier post) with the diagram and strip down.I think what a lot will have the problem with is how hard you have to lever the trim on the top of the panel (bottom door).The tyre levers were a good suggestion as the butter knives just slid out under the pressure. You have to "hook" the top of the carpeted panel that lies a couple of centimeters under the plastic trim and lever it out from under the lip ,working your way to each end.The plastic trim is quite resilient (I know that sounds unusual for a LR)so be persuasive. Once the carpet trim has popped from the metal they seem to follow easily after.Once you have the carpet panel away from the door panel (it doesn't come off at both of the ends but is still flexible enough to get your hand behind it)As mentioned before there is not much room to manouvre as you have to poke a hole in the rubber seal that covers the actuator housing and cable that you need to pull to release the top door.
I managed to squeeze 2 mini All Black balls either side of the working area to hold the the panel and the carpet panel apart, but still took a bit of bruising on the back of the hand as I prized off the actuator cover (as per JIdea PDF)a managed to locate the broken cable (as the handle still was making the usual unlocking noise, I could feel that the actuator was moving when you pressed the buttons on the dash and outside handle so I deduced it was cable probs, as suggested in other threads I had read)
The cable was easy to find with a torch and I pulled it through the hole I had made in the seal and it popped open.
The little "L" shaped fitting into the actuator had broken at the 90deg. bend.After ringing the stealer it would be $85 AUS for the part that included the latch (nothing wrong with mine)sold the last yesterday,3 week waiting time.
After a day of thinking come up with this solution.
A 32mm L shaped cup hook, a brass wire connector, a small swage.
I should of took pics as I doing it, but it was getting dark and the camera was in the other car. It wasn't really that hard but a bit fiddly with all the pulling the panel apart stuff. If you want any more info on construction feel free to contact.
Again I'd like to thank those for all your threads that got me easy access to the esky in the back. you want to get out - ya talk to me
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 18th Aug 2010 2:04 pm |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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I always thought that the All Blacks had mini balls. 
Best Wishes,
Peter The Bearded Dragon
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| 19th Aug 2010 6:52 am |
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Bristol Disco2
Member Since: 03 Jun 2008
Location: Bristol
Posts: 113
 
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even more so in world cup years it would seem....
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| 19th Aug 2010 11:38 am |
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jimmydunc
Member Since: 22 Feb 2010
Location: queensland
Posts: 18
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It would seem that....especially since I have suffered the same comments for more than a couple of decades, but we still have the Bledisloe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you want to get out - ya talk to me
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| 20th Aug 2010 4:34 am |
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Slingo3
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: AONB
Posts: 502
 
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Mine went last week, 1 cup of coffee later at the dealers and it was fixed. New micro switch in door handle! Changed the complete handle thing all under warranty. 
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| 20th Aug 2010 6:44 am |
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Bushwanderer
Member Since: 27 Nov 2007
Location: Northern Rivers, NSW, Australia
Posts: 2050
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jimmydunc wrote:SNIP but we still have the Bledisloe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have to give you that, and well deserved it was too. 
Best Wishes,
Peter The Bearded Dragon
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| 21st Aug 2010 7:22 am |
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whydahdvr
Member Since: 19 Aug 2010
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 19
 
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Is this common on all years and models? I have a 2008 LR3 that I bought this week and wondered if I should be concerned. It's still under warranty too.
Thanks.
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| 21st Aug 2010 11:23 pm |
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louis356
Member Since: 08 Mar 2010
Location: Milton Keynes
Posts: 27
 
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Well guys this has happened to me too!!
had a look and a tentative go. Managed to take the carpet off!!  so just to confirm that the plastic strip that the carpet was hiding under WILL bend 45 degrees for the trim/carpet panel to prise out?
Just don't want to snap the trim and be in for more ££££ replacing that.
Will just bite the bullet and dive in.
Wish me luck!!
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| 11th Sep 2010 8:56 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| Lift gate release mod in my gallery. |
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In my gallery are a few pictures under the Liftgate Release Mod file that show what you will find under the carpet. The pictures may be of some assistance. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 12th Sep 2010 2:39 am |
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lohr500
Member Since: 27 Jun 2008
Location: uk
Posts: 30
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Same problem happened to us today. Actuator making a noise when the upper tailgate release catch was pressed, but no tailgate opening
Fortunately we had unloaded the pine furniture just before the release packed up, otherwise it would have been real fun trying to get to the tailgate from inside!
Louis356 :
The plastic trim does bend quite a lot and once you've got part of the carpet base out, the rest pulls away relatively easily. Just make sure you are bringing the whole baseboard out from behind the black plastic trim and not just the carpet which is glued to it. I pulled a piece of carpet away from the baseboard in the process and its made a bit of a mess!
Once I had released the upper tailgate and removed the lower tailgate trim I was able to remove the actuator to see what had gone wrong. I imagine I had the same fault as others in that the round pin at right angles to the end of the cable had sheared off.
My solution for what it is worth:
1) Took the metal innards out of a 30 Amp electrical connector block ( Those square insulated block type connectors with two cable holding screws).
2) Passed the end of the actuator cable through the terminal block and positioned the cable end in the correct place on the actuator arm.
3) Tightened up both screws on the connector block so they pinched the actuator cable.
4) Passed one cable tie around the screw on the connector block that was furthest away from the actuator arm and through the actuator rod where the spring meets the black plastic clip.
5) Attached a second cable tie at right angles to the first around the connector block clamp between the two screws. This to stop the first cable tie slipping off the screw.
Seems to be working fine, but I guess only time will tell
I am staggered that LR could come up with such a stupid design with no easy way of manually releasing the tailgate. (Then thinks back to over 30 years of LR ownership, from 80's to 101FC, to Disco's, and actually there have been quite a few design flaws along the way!!!).
And a BIG thanks to Jidea for the instructions on how to get to the actuator inthe 1st place.
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| 19th Sep 2010 3:20 pm |
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discodiscodisco
Member Since: 15 Sep 2009
Location: North
Posts: 50
 
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Yup. Today I too had to work my way via the rear seats to let the dog out...was actually waiting for it to happen, after my passenger door only locking when it self decides to, and my EPG started to scream this summer  This just after I hat had to give up changing my steering assist pump myself (which broke during a hefty fight to get out of some nasty mud), and had to crawl to my stealer for help again.... Have to book time at my local stealer (we are currently on a first name basis ) to change the lower balljoints after giving up to hammer them out myself anyway, so....well well...Still in love with my big Blue  Club Traxide and dual Optima- red and yellow
Club broken EPB
Club 4 broken mudflaps
Club BAS EGR blanks
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| 19th Sep 2010 9:16 pm |
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highbayrack
Member Since: 09 Jul 2008
Location: Northamptonshire
Posts: 2776
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Mine went last week whilst SWMBO was out food shoping, she had to load £200 worth of grub through passinger door. I rang LRA the next morning, chap turned up within an hour. He pressed the key fob a few times and said "ya cable has broken mate it happens all the time" he could not get replacement from local dealer so he arranged for another LRA guy to pick one up from the dealer in Bedford and come to my house the following morning 08;30 (saturday) he fixed the problem in 45 mins and then helped me change the brake pad's on SWMBO's Defender. Now that's what I call aftersales sevice. Top marks to LRA On a mission to find the perfect Pork Pie. Just Found it (I think)..(Yes I have)
Official product sponsor for "Bloodhound SSC" 1000+ mph world land speed record
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| 23rd Sep 2010 12:29 pm |
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discodiscodisco
Member Since: 15 Sep 2009
Location: North
Posts: 50
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| It wasnt the lower after all.. |
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Somehow I was convinced that the usual problem with the cabel also was the reason for my failure to open the tailgate. After ordering a new one, and spending 4 hrs swearing in the garage, I managed to fix the replacement. However....it seems to be the upper one who has the failure.... Diagnostics is the most importent part I guess...  Club Traxide and dual Optima- red and yellow
Club broken EPB
Club 4 broken mudflaps
Club BAS EGR blanks
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| 23rd Oct 2010 7:17 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 701
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| Cable in lower door half operates the latch for upper half. |
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Me thinks that you replaced the correct part if the problem was that the upper window would not unlatch.
If you look in my photo gallery for the Liftgate Release Mod file, if the cable you replaced is the one shown in picture with the metal fishing leader, then while the mechanics are located in the lower door half, that is the cable that operates the upper window release.
Pushing the little rubber square on the top left of the lower door only operates the left and right lower door latches; the upper door release operates only from either the switch on the dash or the remote and is that solenoid and cable that is in the gold coloured metal box.
Regardless, it sounds like you were successful, but if the problem was the lower door, then I would be interested in what the solution was as the lower door could be next for me. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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| 24th Oct 2010 1:47 am |
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Landy_Mad_Foreigner
Member Since: 26 Aug 2010
Location: Somewhere between a rock and a hard place
Posts: 411
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Well thanks to this thread I've managed to repair my tailgate cable today.
Thanks for the brilliant advice and step by step instructions
Here's hoping it lasts as I don't really fancy having 'skinned' knuckles again in the near future One Wife.......Livid
BAS Remap, RLD Sumpguard Side Steps, A-Bar and LR Driving Lights - Just a start but more to come
1984 Series III SWB on the mend and getting better
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| 24th Oct 2010 6:21 pm |
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