Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
The two button dash push will only release the rear tailgate to a half latch position, it is meant to do that, you're wasting your time adjusting anything, it is supposed to only half release.
What happens when you push the tailgate release button on the underside of the tailgate handle?Mods:
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6th Nov 2014 7:56 pm
harleyman14
Member Since: 28 Oct 2014
Location: Colorado
Posts: 8
So then the micro switch opens it the rest of the way, I presume. I have replaced that too, except the new one had a coupler I had to cut off to splice it in. Evidently, I got the 2 black wires on the ms crossed with the 2 black original wires cuz it isn't working either. Do they make one of these that actually work?
7th Nov 2014 3:06 am
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
Narpy wrote:
The two button dash push will only release the rear tailgate to a half latch position, it is meant to do that,
Looks like the switch in my upper tailgate handle has gone today, no noise being made when the latch is pressed under the rubber cover. Happens to be the one day Mrs Nasher has borrowed it, so I can't even get to it until she gets home much later tonight.
I do have a failsafe mechanism which I put in place a year or so ago. A couple of cable ties wrapped around the cable end at the actuator and sticking out from behind the trim so should be able to open it.
In my case however I'd like to try the 15sec push on the dash buttons first, but whilst reading this thread I noticed the quote above.
If the 2 button push only releases it half way, how does it help you open the upper tailgate?
It would appear to get you half way, but you still can't open it.
Thanks
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
18th Nov 2014 5:55 pm
crwoody
Member Since: 09 Mar 2009
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 2109
When you use the dash buttons to open the upper tailgate, you need to have someone there to lift it as it releases, then it should open all the way.
It's the same as using the LR button on the keyfob if you have that function activated, you need to lift the handle at the same time.Clive
18th Nov 2014 6:20 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
Thanks crwoody
I suppose I'll then know if it's the microswitch.
Is there a guide to changing the handle over anywhere?
I assume it's a case of getting the trim off the inside and undoing screws etc?
It's annoying I won't have the car back until after 10pm tonight, but at least that will give me the chance to look up how to activate the 3rd button.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
18th Nov 2014 7:00 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
You need this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lz01q0OJTlQ
Makes it look very easy, and it is, but don't be surprised if the inserts start turning. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
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Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
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18th Nov 2014 7:27 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
Thanks Narpy.
The tailgate has been working all week on and off, then today decided to give up all together, but I was planning on having a play today anyway.
Now I'm confused though.
I pulled the rubber cover off, then levered out the grey plastic switch housing that contains the microswitch.
Moving the wires about where they go into the back of the potted switch I occasionally got the system to work, but every time I pushed the housing back in the handle it stopped working again.
So I thought great, I'll bodge up a microswitch from the many I have in the garage and it won't cost me a penny.
At that point I thought to separate the connector for all the electrics from the handle and put a meter across the contacts for the switch. Despite moving the wires about, pushing, pulling etc, every time I try the switch I get perfect contact across the sockets, yet if I plug the connector back in and wiggle the wires about I only get occasional joy from the latch.
Am I being daft?
Is the output from the microswitch more sophisticated than just on and off?
I've sort of eliminated a wiring fault further down the loom in the tailgate etc as it's moving the wiring about right by the switch that gets it working occasionally.
Oh and Narpy was right, I managed to loosen all four big head torx screws on the outside of the tailgate that hold the handle on, but three of them just go round and round, so I'm assuming the inserts in the plastic are turning. If it's ever going to come off I'll have to drill the heads off the screws first.
I don't suppose anyone local(ish) has a spare handle assembly I could plug in to prove where the fault lies?
HELP PLEASE.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
22nd Nov 2014 4:34 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
22nd Nov 2014 5:17 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
Does anyone have any idea if the output from the microswitch is more sophisticated than just on and off?
Thanks
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Nov 2014 4:03 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
If the inserts are turning, prise up the handle revealing the brass inserts and grip each one with long nose pliers, then unscrew from the head side.
Sorry I can't advise regarding the switch issue, never had the problem myself. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
23rd Nov 2014 4:18 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
Thanks Narpy.
I'm sure I'm going to have fun getting the old one off.
Been mucking about again today and get the same result - intermittent activation of the solenoid when I play with the wires at the switch end and push the microswitch, but a definite 1 or 0 on the ohm meter at the connector no matter what I do to the wires.
The microswitch must provide something other than Off and On.
NasherHeaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Nov 2014 4:36 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
It would appear from a search on here that the Range Rover switch, part No. YUZ500020 is the same but with a connector on the end. At @£20 it's a cheaper fix, so might try this first.
Off out to the garage to try something drastic
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Nov 2014 4:55 pm
Nasher
Member Since: 07 Mar 2009
Location: Clanfield, North of Pompey - UK
Posts: 2814
OK
Approaching the fault methodically.
1)Touching nothing on the vehicle apart from moving the wires about where they enter the back of the microswitch, once a ‘sweet spot’ has been found a reaction from the solenoid can be heard every time the microswitch is pressed.
Move the wire again and nothing.
This obviously suggests a broken wire or similar just inside the back of the microswitch.
2)I then disconnected the connector inside the tailgate and pushed pins inside the female switch end.
With my ohm meter attached to the pins the switch appeared to turn on and off when being pressed exactly as you’d expect regardless of wire position.
This suggests there is no issue with the switch or wires, the opposite of above.
3)Repeating step 1) (After reconnecting the connector inside the tailgate ) gives an exact repeat of the original findings from Step 1), ie a fault at the switch.
4)Drastic action - Snipping the two wires by the microswitch, baring the ends, and touching them together to imitate the microswitch.
Result – Nothing, no reaction from the solenoid.
5)I disconnected the connector on the inside of the tailgate and bridged the two pins inside the tailgate side to imitate the microswitch being on and off. Again nothing, no reaction at all.
I can only conclude that the microswitch sends a more sophisticate signal than on and off, and that this signal is effected by whatever is wrong where the wires enter the switch.
Any Thoughts?
Oh, I definitely need a new switch now, but will probably try a RRS one first and solder the wires together.
If only I could borrow a known good assembly to connect up inside the tailgate to prove the point.
Nasher.Heaven doesn't want me, and hell is afraid I'll take over.
23rd Nov 2014 5:46 pm
Woolmeister
Member Since: 26 Mar 2007
Location: Chandler's Ford
Posts: 3464
I have an old tailgate handle (with a working switch I think) somewhere if you want it.
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Putting my 55 plate D3 back on the road after a long lay off on SORN is proving to be interesting to say the least, shan't bore everyone with all the problems (mostly with the elektrickery-onics, ggrrr) suffice to say this site is invaluable when faced with minimal budget (and mechanical knowledge), so thank you once again everyone for fantastic shared knowledge of the myriad issues with these beasts!
Soooo yep, rear tailgate finally gave up the ghost!
Could hear clicking when tailgate handle used so figured micro-switch wasn't the problem, so after reading excellent postings on here, took a deep breath, pile of tools, and made myself comfortable in the rear of the Disco.
Lower rear panel did come off with brute force and found myself cutting through the membrane to reveal the actuator, and after much wriggling and skinning of fingers swearing etc managed to push off its plastic cover enough to reach inside to feel the release cable with my fingertips.
Blowed if i could figure out how to reach it with long nosed pliers so eventually fed some spare (coaxial i think)wire round the cable and pulled "bingo" tailgate open!!
Left while ahead to bathe skinned fingers etc.
Resumed investigation today removing actuator and opening it up (as per once again excellent instructions on here.) to discover the cable in perfect condition, unbroken, soundly secured in the plastic gubbins-thingey holding it.............mmmmmmm!
Plugged it back in and when I press the tailgate switch it does actually move attempting to pull the cable albeit weakly and not that far.
Sooooooo my question is:
Is the actuator knackered and needing replaced? (best priced supplier please? )
Or, is there any fiddling, adjusting that can be done?
And, I seem to remember a few years ago when my battery was needing replaced, that the central locking to the rear of the car was sometimes weak (rear doors, tailgate) until car had been running a while when they would operate perfectly.
Could the actuator be failing due to a poor electrical feed as a result of yet another electrical gremlin or am I clutching at straws?
(New battery was fitted to vehicle couple of weeks ago.............)
Any advice greatfully accepted as every little problem is starting to mount up...............and that's BEFORE Disco-Mikey gets his hands on it to diagnose the really serious stuff lol!!!
Cheers! Ken.
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) gives an exact repeat of the original findings from Step 1), ie a fault at the switch.
