Member Since: 01 Nov 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 40
Tailgate
Thank you to everyone who has contributed to the tailgate post.
I have had my D3 for 4 weeks and the tailgate refused to open. I followed all the advice and managed to complete the fix.
Part cost £67.20 to replace compared to the main dealer wanting to charge £260 to fix.
Many Thanks
Stephen.
Re. reluctant tailgate and ineffective (ok, knackered) actuator, finally (grudgingly, lol) admitted defeat and bought new actuator.
Arrived within 48 hours and had it fitted and everything put back to normal within quarter of an hour.
Sooooo good to have a working back door again, especially in this weather!
Can I say a huge thank you to Dan@Duckworth parts for his patience(as I ranted re. offending actuator) help, and great deal on the part, £40 all in including delivery!
Now, whats next.....................?
11th Dec 2014 7:32 pm
IroningMan
Member Since: 25 Mar 2013
Location: Somerset
Posts: 135
Tackled this on Saturday. Thanks to Disco Mikey and the others who've contributed guides etc.
All straightforward, except that the tailgate trim isn't so cooperative when it's freezing; very difficult to bend it out of the way of the carpet panel without damage. Heated garage recommended...
19th Jan 2015 11:33 am
Kingrat
Member Since: 05 Mar 2015
Location: Under my bonnet
Posts: 130
Had mine apart today, top and bottom. Nothing was wet, cable is intact, so I was thinking actuator. Then I referred to this thread, found the post re getting someone to hold the dash lock buttons.
With buttons held 'down' tailgate opens effortlessly.
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Stafffordshire
Posts: 2
Help Can`t get into my Boot
I also have an issue with the rear tail gate. I followed the hand book instructions and held both lock & unlock buttons for 3 seconds plus. The tail gate actuator can be heard but the gate doesn`t release. It can also be heard when operating the handle. It happened after my had slipped off the tail gate when opening. Is there anyway to get it to open if the switches and key do not work? I have managed to pry the plastic trim away at the top in the boot but cannot see how to get it to release
Many thanks
4th Aug 2015 10:34 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
I've said this before but here it is again quoted:
Narpy wrote:
If you can hear actuator but nothing happens regarding the tailgate being released, 100% certainty, the cable end has snapped. Nothing to do with wiring or micro switches.
You need to access the cable actuator and pull it with pliers to get the tailgate open.
All the information you require is here: http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/displayima...&pos=1
N22 APS, If you can't manage it, but can get to my house at weekend or Monday ( Stockport, Junc 27 on M60. ), I will open it and do a temporary chocolate block fix for you to get you up and running again until you can do something more permanent.
PM me if you need help.Mods:
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Rear Boot Spoiler.
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Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
4th Aug 2015 11:49 pm
N22APS
Member Since: 04 Aug 2015
Location: Stafffordshire
Posts: 2
Tail gate access
Many thanks for the info
5th Aug 2015 6:33 am
bsm
Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: Ellikom
Posts: 232
Snapped off cable here too. Was an easy fix with the help of the forum.
I made an extra wire as emergency unlock. With this wire I can unlock the upper tailgate from inside. 2017-...: Disco II Td5 auto, 1999, BAS remap, HD TC and auto box Ashcroft, Allisport IC, ACE, 2" lift only coils, BF goodrich KM2 265/70R17, FF front and rear bumper, TF steering guard and tree sliders, nanocom.
2013-2017: Disco 3 TDV6 HSE aut. of 2008, Britpart treesliders, IIDTool, RLD sump guard, BFG KM2 265/70R17, adj. rods, BAS remap + EGRs blanked, silicon IC hoses.
2010-2013: Disco II Td5 of 2000, ACE, front Bearmach HD coils, rear SLS, GG AT2
23rd Aug 2015 8:48 pm
D4mond
Member Since: 08 Sep 2015
Location: Wigan
Posts: 18
Just had this problem. Great forum and a massive help. Do you have to get a new cable and latch or is Geoff. Still doing a better replacement?
Thanks
Damon
8th Sep 2015 10:05 pm
RhinoRon
Member Since: 07 Mar 2011
Location: Cambridge foothills
Posts: 7
I've now had the (much anticipated) tailgate failure.
As I can hear the actuator when I try to open but nothing happens I'm sure its 'just' the cable. However, as I am mechanically incompetent and have shovel hands that probably won't fit the tiny spaces to do it myself I wondered if anyone could advise how long / how much it would be likely to be for my local (indy / non LR) garage to do it all for me?
cheers
22nd Sep 2015 1:21 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Took me about an hour + £60 for the part, couple of weeks ago. So should give you an idea.
And I was taking my time
22nd Sep 2015 1:30 pm
Fuji200
Member Since: 06 Feb 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 12
Tailgate cable break
Tailgate failed again.
This time not the switch I fixed before but the cable from the actuator
New assembly included the latch - not required so fixed it with an Allan Key cut off to the right length as the cable end and linked it to the cable using a heavy duty cable block connector - perfect and cost = 0
22nd Sep 2015 6:59 pm
Ironman1505
Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Haworth
Posts: 24
I've got the tailgate microswitch problem. Have pulled off the rubber seal and sprayed with switch cleaner then wd40, the switch now seems to be working but have tried for ages to get the rubber seal back on. Is there a trick to it? Does the switch unit pull out to get seal back on?
16th Jan 2016 6:44 pm
Fuji200
Member Since: 06 Feb 2011
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 12
yes it is tricky
I put mine back in the first time with the switch in the car and gently pushed the rubber seal into place with a small screw driver - a bit of washing up liquid helps.
In my case the metal plate finally corroded to pieces and fell out of the two small recesses that hold it at the edge. I made a new plate out of stainless steel and put that in - works OK again. The switch does come out but be careful as it is held in by two plastic clips. If you look at the rectangular plastic unit that contains the switch and the hinged plate then at the left and right (short edges) there is a clip that springs out once the unit is inserted into the tailgate handle. These clips are like an upside down 'V' that compresses as you push it in the pops out once past the lip. Sorry couldn't think of another way to describe it. Mine came out OK but there is a risk you might bend it backwards and break it.
Once out - yes it is easier to replace the rubber but you should be able to do it in situe.
Good luck
17th Jan 2016 12:26 pm
Ironman1505
Member Since: 29 Oct 2015
Location: Haworth
Posts: 24
Thank you very much, I took a look on you tube and found out on there, goes on easy when the switch unit is out
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