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DISCO4.COM > Maintenance & Mods (D3)

D4 Wheel with Tiptronic on a D3
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cold_n_wet
 


Member Since: 05 May 2009
Location: Bergen
Posts: 1509

Norway 

Thanks, I will again ask in 3-4 months the status of the project.

G IDTOOL PRO / Faultmate programing and BAS remaping services in Norway.
Diagnostic for most Land rover vehicles
Land Rover parts and accessories.
Stockist of RLD equipment.
www.praesto4x4.no
D4 gone, missed but replaced with a 110 Puma.  
Post #7713776th Mar 2011 8:57 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

How about converting the RRS wheel to resistive ladder, so it works like the D3/RRS 2009 wheel? Then use Pete's wireless mod to avoid the clock spring cost, and voila.  
Post #77601218th Mar 2011 9:44 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Had a look inside both sets of switches, and it's probably quicker to wait for BBS...  
Post #77603518th Mar 2011 10:39 pm
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geoff.
 


Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: West kent
Posts: 8531

England 

baben

if it was an easy fix i,m sure colin and pete would of cracked it by now Whistle

geoff  
Post #77603918th Mar 2011 10:47 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Colin has cracked it by all accounts, I just think he has other priorities right now like merging companies, and I kind of know what that's like. Best to wait  
Post #77604118th Mar 2011 10:52 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Baben wrote:
I am gonna buy the paddles from Nick and plug em in and see what happens Razz


so i got the paddles thanks Nick Thumbs Up

I am too scared to plug em in tho - the wiring for the paddles terminates in a 4-pin male connector, and the only place I can see they could plug in is a 4-pin male connector behind the right hand steering wheel switch pack (phone, heated wheel etc)
so is it a simple issue of plugging in a 4-pin female to female jumper cable (easily made from r/c chopper spares which I have in abundance), or will I blow something up Big Cry

Doesn't look like Nick has access to this kind of info (thanks for trying tho, Nick)

Colin, Wiggs, anyone with access to FFRR documentation - can you please help? All I need to know is where the pesky paddles are supposed to plug in  
Post #7837158th Apr 2011 4:29 am
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BBS SPY
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Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054

Cyprus 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Hiya Baben.

I got all your messages, just a bit busy at the mo Whistle

There is a small paddle switch Loom that distributes the connection from IIRC the LHS switch module to both paddles.  
Post #7841749th Apr 2011 4:47 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Hi Colin

Thanks for taking the time to respond. I hope you are still getting time to develop stuff, but whatever you do, don't hire a consultant Laughing
If you do get another moment, please have a look at the pics on this post on FFRR: http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=59338#59338
The cable loom from the paddles is exactly as per the pic, the paddles plug together with one set of plugs, and the loom terminates in a 4 pin male
The receptacle in question is at the back of the RHS switch pack, and is also 4 pin male, the "coding" ie the shape of the receptacle and the plug on the end of the paddle loom is the same too. Very tempted to just connect it with a straight 1 to 1 cable, buto scared I blow it all up  
Post #78427110th Apr 2011 1:12 am
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BBS SPY
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Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054

Cyprus 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Hiya Baben, i always get there in the end Rolling with laughter

Oh i am still designing and developing stuff, but currently just stuff that either measures 6x15x3 meters and uses several tons of steel and hundreds of meters of aluminum and loads of glass, or stuff so complex and small its more like what you would find in your average mobile phone !!!

Seriously, you would not believe what i have to go through on an average day at present. Today's big issue was the usage of plastic over cast iron man hole covers !!!

Still at least its all only a temporary thing.

I really can't wait to get back to the joys of working only on this kind of project.

I scoured my Microcat, but did not find your picture, but then my MC is a bit out of date now, another victim of by busyness

It seems like on the L322 implementation the little loom i mentioned is actually already part of the one paddle switch assembly.
This is the loom i mentioned LR018555 for a 2010 RR sport.

So you should have a 3 pin plug that allows you to connect the two paddles together and then one 4 pin plug to plug into the back of one of the switch packs.

Don't expect there to be any extra wires going through the clock spring, its all done through the existing data channels. Thumbs Up  
Post #78444410th Apr 2011 4:38 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Hi Colin, and thanks again for your help. The information you provided gave me the guidance (& confidence) to go and pull the switch pack & airbag off again and measure. You are 100% correct, the 4 pins in the back of the R/H switch pack are (reading from the keyed pin on the left) illumination, paddle, paddle, GND. Just for info, if anyone else tries this, the pinout on the switch pack and the pinout on the end of the cable from the paddles are reversed, ie the keyed pin on the paddle loom is GND, whereas the keyed pin on the switch pack is illumination. ie. 2-12v

Now I am not sure which paddle is which yet, but once I get the feature enabled I will know
So the "-" and "+" lights on the switches illuminate and dim with the rheostat, so I guess I have those connections correct. The paddles just dont have any effect on the gearbox yet.

you are a gentleman, Colin  
Post #78448910th Apr 2011 6:49 pm
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BBS SPY
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Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054

Cyprus 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 Base 7 Seat Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

I certainly try my best Baben Wink

To give you some idea of the complexity and level i got to before i had to put the D4 wheel into a D3 with paddle control project on temporary hold,

On my implementation for the Disco 3 with a Disco 4 or 2010 on RRS wheel with paddles, i feed the two paddle switch signals into a specialist encoding chip for security and error rejection and then into a low power RF transmitter. As there is no power supply in the Disco 3 wheel, i actually parasitically rob power from the horn circuit at a level so low, it does not pull in the horn relay.
That took some doing Shocked .

I then have a tiny receiver which picks up the transmissions, decodes them and feeds them into a microcontroller which has outputs that can either emulate command shift actions on the gear stick into the auto box controller or put messages on the Can Bus or other bus to achieve the same result. I did not work that bit out but was sure to cover all bases Whistle

Thus providing paddle shifting capability on any vehicle that it was never fitted on like the Disco 3, RRS and 2002 to 2009 L322
As difficult and as far fetched as all this RF transmitting / receiving and encoding / decoding may sound, that's actually a part i got going and fully tested with outstanding results.

This part also has expansion possibilities, EG imagine a capability where if you hold both paddles for more than 3 seconds, you get a notification bong from the dash and the paddles usage changes from switching gear to one where when by pulling the plus or minus paddles you can raise or lower the vehicles air suspension at will.

Amazingly my last obstacle i needed to sort was only the illumination part. The switches and paddles are fitted with LEDS that only accept about 2.5 V max. on the later switches the processor is fed data about the illumination level and it has a built in PWM circuit for this, but on the earlier switches, it is directly fed with a varying voltage that can be up to 12 V and is reduced only by simple resistors.
unfortunately these resistors generate a lot of heat that has to be dissipated somehow, and it is this aspect that is / was causing me some trouble.

I guess if it was easy, everybody would be doing it Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter  
Post #78487711th Apr 2011 5:53 pm
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wiggs
 


Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372

United Kingdom 2015 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

Colin

Is the remote part ready for distribution yet ?????

I don't think I will have an issue with the LED's now
Whistle G4 Gone ...but not forgotten  
Post #78492111th Apr 2011 7:51 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

it works on the L322 2010 8)

1) buy paddles from TLO
2) buy Faultmate from BBS
3) enable paddle shift in the CCF
4) plug in paddles (with a little guidance from Colin)
5) enjoy Laughing  
Post #78645215th Apr 2011 6:58 pm
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wiggs
 


Member Since: 03 Sep 2006
Location: Manchester
Posts: 14372

United Kingdom 2015 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Fuji WhiteDiscovery 4

Result Thumbs Up

Be nice if it worked on a d4 with just a ccf adjustment Whistle G4 Gone ...but not forgotten  
Post #78646815th Apr 2011 7:43 pm
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Baben
 


Member Since: 15 Feb 2006
Location: Kyalami
Posts: 2059

South Africa 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Cairns BlueDiscovery 3

Wiggs I hope thats a typo- D4 does work with just an RRS wheel and CCF edit doesn't it?
D3 is a bit more effort, and there we need that module  
Post #78647815th Apr 2011 8:12 pm
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