Member Since: 23 Nov 2010
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7th Mar 2013 7:19 am
stenh02
Member Since: 01 Jul 2009
Location: Up North
Posts: 270
It says its meant to brighten up for the weekend...
See you Saturday and if worse comes to worse we can hold an umbrella for a bit. I am hoping the rear tailgate bit should be quickish.
7th Mar 2013 10:51 am
Rob55
Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: N.Ireland
Posts: 92
wiggs wrote:
this is the correct one needed
the one in the site shop does not have the coloured shroud on it
Just ordered one of these myself, hopefully should cover both eventualities whether my car has a male smb or if a 6 pin plug ill cut one end off and crimp on a pair of connectors to attach to pins 2 and 5.
If I can get time I might knock up a pictorial how to guide!
7th Mar 2013 10:56 am
Shadow62
Member Since: 17 Dec 2012
Location: Middlesex
Posts: 34
On my list of things to do after backing into somthing
7th Mar 2013 2:35 pm
alano
Member Since: 22 Sep 2012
Location: Woking
Posts: 15
I though I would post a few extra pictures of the rear wiring loom.
This shows the camera and micro switch loom connected to the main loom. All pretty obvious.
This is one of the other connectors on the loom. I'm sure it will be obvious where everything goes once the old wiring is exposed. Note that the new loom also has the fixing connectors on it already so, in theory, you can't go wrong
8th Mar 2013 8:15 am
Triumph_Dave
Member Since: 28 Feb 2013
Location: Somerset
Posts: 49
Hi Guys, thanks for the additional photos.. I am still waiting for the parts to show.. I have 2.5 weeks then I have to head off to the USA for 5 weeks, so if the parts do not show this coming week, then it may be a while before I can fit them and you will all certainly beat me to the fitting.. Then again, maybe a good thing..
Hi Guys, thanks for the additional photos.. I am still waiting for the parts to show.. I have 2.5 weeks then I have to head off to the USA for 5 weeks, so if the parts do not show this coming week, then it may be a while before I can fit them and you will all certainly beat me to the fitting.. Then again, maybe a good thing..
Dave
Shipped today Dave be with you mondayTLO has left the building.......
I no longer work for a Landrover Dealer
My little chilli sauce business http://www.thechillees.co.uk
if you would like to order anything just give me a shout
8th Mar 2013 5:18 pm
Triumph_Dave
Member Since: 28 Feb 2013
Location: Somerset
Posts: 49
The Large One wrote:
Triumph_Dave wrote:
Hi Guys, thanks for the additional photos.. I am still waiting for the parts to show.. I have 2.5 weeks then I have to head off to the USA for 5 weeks, so if the parts do not show this coming week, then it may be a while before I can fit them and you will all certainly beat me to the fitting.. Then again, maybe a good thing..
Dave
Shipped today Dave be with you monday
Hi TLO.. Thank you.. Brilliant !!! Have a good holiday...
Dave
8th Mar 2013 6:19 pm
stenh02
Member Since: 01 Jul 2009
Location: Up North
Posts: 270
Click image to enlarge
After much huffing and puffing and helpful tips by DangerDave ('Oh, I wouldn't have done it like that....") it works!
Only slight fly in the ointment was no picture at first - this was due to me not pushing the SMB into the Fakra far enough at the connection below the gear knob.
G
Last edited by stenh02 on 9th Mar 2013 6:30 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Mar 2013 12:36 pm
dangerdave
Member Since: 23 Nov 2010
Location: <>
Posts: 4495
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9th Mar 2013 1:55 pm
alano
Member Since: 22 Sep 2012
Location: Woking
Posts: 15
Well I've finally completed the rear wiring loom change and camera fitting and have taken various pictures as I went. Hopefully this we help anyone still to do it.
TRIM REMOVAL
The rear ceiling trim housing the light is removed by gently pulling it downwards. The picture shows the fixings .
The connector going to the light is then detached.
I removed the tailgate trim in the following order.
The trim closest to the hinges was first.
Again the angle of the fixings shows how gently pulling it down will release it. Once removed you can then see how the cabling comes through.
The next stage was to remove the large panel at the bottom of the tailgate. First thing was to pull off the trim around the door catch.
I then removed the rubber seal at the bottom of the tailgate be gently pulling the off. I used small pliers to ensure the fixings popped out of the door rather than the rubber itself
You will also need to take out the screw in the tailgate handle
With the tailgate up I found that it was then a case of pulling the plastic moulding it downward to release the fixings. I found it easier to pull a gap open with my fingers a use a large flat screwdriver to pop the fixings out of the metal frame.
Here you can see the panel removed and the position of the fixings.
The final panel on the left hand side of the tailgate can now be popped out.
The picture shows the type of fixings on this panel
With the cabling all exposed the old loom can be removed. I would suggest taking a few pictures of everything before you start just in case. Fixing the new loom is fairly obvious and the fixings on this will pop into the holes left when removing the old one. One thing I did was to leave connecting the loom plugs in the main headlining last so that there is no power supply while you are routing all the various plugs around the tailgate.
To remove the rear number plate light and camera unit, do the following. Remove the 4 star bolts and the 3 10mm nuts holding the unit to the tailgate. With the tailgate lowered down slightly (but no closed shut) pull the unit away from the door remembering to disconnect the cables before you do. You will then have the unit in the next picture.
The blanking plate where the camera sits can be popped out and the camera fitted using two self tapping screws
Removing the old micro switch was more difficult as you cannot get access to the two fixing lugs which are obvious on the new one. I released it by removing the rubber and popping a screwdriver down the side. It worked and didn't damage the main case but the old microswitch wasn't really useable afterwards. If anyone has a better method please share.
Once the old microswitch is out the new one is easily fitting and the new connections fitted. Putting the unit back on the tailgate is the reverse of taking it off and the new plugs from the unit can the be connected to the new loom.
After checking all the connectors were reattached
Finally the plastic panels were then refitted in reverse order. The large panel at the base of the tailgate links into the two side panels so check that everything is lined up before popping it all back. A quick check of the electrics showed everything was working.
Unfortunately my fakra cable connecting the screen hasn't arrived yet so the final connection has still to be completed. However this at least shows the awkward part at the back.
9th Mar 2013 2:05 pm
Triumph_Dave
Member Since: 28 Feb 2013
Location: Somerset
Posts: 49
Alan, thank you for the pictorial, its a good step by step explantion, plus a picture tells a thousnad words.
Dave
9th Mar 2013 3:40 pm
stenh02
Member Since: 01 Jul 2009
Location: Up North
Posts: 270
Pull the cup holder out. Should be easy
Click image to enlarge
Unscrew two phillips head screws holding the Water Shedder
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Open cubby box. In the Disco3 you have to pull the black shiny bit off but in the D4 the whole assembly with gear knob comes off in a oner. Pull straight up on the back bit where you have taken the cupholders out and the whole thing will come off
For more room you can disconnect the two block connectors and take the whole thing off.
Remove pale padding and prise the underlay out the way to get access to the Fakra.
Click image to enlarge
For the rest we followed the guide from Pete Bell as detailed above on the thread. You will probably loose some of the spring clips when you take the side bits off around the console so either buy some replacements or spread them out - I lost 4 (2 each side) but the remaining ones held and not rattley.
Make sure you push the Fakra connectors in far enough they are a tight fit.
The one Andrew said is the right one.
Click image to enlarge
The purple one nearest the passenger side. Push hard.
We then dangled the wire down the back of the CD unit and thru a space near the Original Fakra.
We found the rear loom part the hardest with the clips not really corresponding to the holes but used some of them and the trims went on okay.
Almost 4 hours work, but worth it to have it working in the end.
Thanks to DangerDave for his help - and placing my screwdriver set on the floor so I could drive over it
G
Last edited by stenh02 on 9th Mar 2013 9:04 pm. Edited 1 time in total
9th Mar 2013 4:03 pm
Rob55
Member Since: 11 Feb 2013
Location: N.Ireland
Posts: 92
Happy days great work folks! Did u have to enable it using faultmate or did it work by itself?
9th Mar 2013 6:11 pm
stenh02
Member Since: 01 Jul 2009
Location: Up North
Posts: 270
I have a IIDTool that allowed activation. It is the Beta firmware at the moment but it worked.
You need it, or a faultmate or an Indy garage with Autologic. I don't think the franchise dealers can do it with their T4's
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and if worse comes to worse we can hold an umbrella for a bit. I am hoping the rear tailgate bit should be quickish.
Have a good holiday...
