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robo
Member Since: 30 Jul 2010
Location: solihull
Posts: 298
  
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thanks for this,put mine up on the ramp saturday cant believe the rust underneath was worried till looked at these pictures do they all go like this? have started cleaning and rust proofing action gone not forgotten 2 classics
gone forgotten 2 p38s
current d3 se 2006 td standard for now
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 11th Mar 2013 12:03 pm |
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SGLover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: Comber
Posts: 24
 
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Great stuff, thanks for that, i will give it a go over easter.
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| 15th Mar 2013 8:23 am |
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robbo770
Member Since: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 2294
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JUST TO ENLIGHTEN EVERYONE!!!! 
have had this advised regarding the EPB process if a new one is fitted
The purpose of the EPB initialization is to store the clutch position sensor calibration and the vehicle identification number or VIN in the EPB ECU on vehicle fitted with a Manual transmission and the calibration of the longitudinal accelerometer sensor which is in the EPB.
The first one is included in the next firmware version V2.18 of the IID Tool which will be available in the coming weeks except the Longitudinal accelerometer which will be aded at a later date
On a vehicle fitted with an Automatic transmission, the process only write the VIN and clear faults. On an automatic vehicle, we believe it is not mandatory to do this initialization.
But, the calibration of the longitudinal accelerometer sensor has to be performed on automatic transmission vehicles…
THANKS TO THE IID TEAM for the prompt information tonight, this I did not know even with all the post reviews.
cheers
Rob FFRR SC 4.2
Rejected!! RRS2
Fit TDV6 intercooler hoses
Fast Road intercooler
De-Cat pipe
D3 to B4 front end Upgrade
OEM TV/DVD Screens+wireless Headphones!
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| 19th Mar 2013 7:20 pm |
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robbo770
Member Since: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 2294
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got her back all fixed today,
so
parts from Duckworth and discs from brembo £590, had set of pads in stock from when I had my SC FFRR, same pads
cost to remove and fit all new bits with programming £328 inc VAT,
so no change from £1000, but still cheap considering every bolt was seized on her for the poor mechanic at the garage!!!!
so I am so glad I did not choose to try this at home, as it was a nightmare according to my mate who owns the garage, put them off doing anymore for a wee while I think  
but shes improved mileage per gallon already with no dragging from the rear so the module must have been well toast before it died.
just wish I had not had the experience if you know what I mean, but at least I know the rear is all done, and I can just fit drilled and grooved on the front myself easily next month.
cheers to all on the forum for the excellent info to refer to.
even got my plate on her and got my next year tax today as well!! FFRR SC 4.2
Rejected!! RRS2
Fit TDV6 intercooler hoses
Fast Road intercooler
De-Cat pipe
D3 to B4 front end Upgrade
OEM TV/DVD Screens+wireless Headphones!
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| 20th Mar 2013 6:09 pm |
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Langer
Member Since: 26 Feb 2013
Location: Dunfermline
Posts: 179
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Hi one of my brakes seam to be sticky so I think I'll look at this but not getting this:-
Once you are happy you have unwond it enough, push the 2 side of the cables together to relatch. Compare the metal parts to the right hand side of the small white plastic box between this picture and the next:
Can't see where it says about un attaching the cables or do you just mean strip the rear shoes down? Also see when this has all been done do you need anything reset with a machine or anything? Cheers.
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| 31st Mar 2013 12:57 am |
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Langer
Member Since: 26 Feb 2013
Location: Dunfermline
Posts: 179
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Ah so its not the case just as my brakes sticking? I've a reciept the rear shoes were done last year. Keep hearing a squeal from the Ns rear wheel and feels sticky when coming to a stop
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| 31st Mar 2013 6:27 pm |
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SGLover
Member Since: 07 Jan 2013
Location: Comber
Posts: 24
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Hi all , thanks for all the replies, very helpful. i took apart the braeks using the Bodsy bible, really good step by step, and then took apart the EBP module, wound back the unit, put it all back together then connected the Sealy tool. since my last post i have checked out a few bits and the sealy tool on EPB unjam effectively drainned the battery and did something to the ECU i think. did the hard reset as advised on this forus , charged battry and shes running again, EBP still not working at it was replaced 6 months ago. I suspect the Sealy tool may have tried to unwind and if the EBP is faulty then the battry may have drained due to that , so maybe the tool is OK.
Diff still broken unfortunately as well and it had a new gear box 12 months ago. mileage is 97 k miles.
does anyone have any advice on how long the exchange gearbox may last ? and on the front diff and transfer box reliability. Its time to either fix and keep or move to a Volvo !! 
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| 1st Apr 2013 10:03 am |
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Disco Trek
Member Since: 01 Mar 2013
Location: Middle of the Country
Posts: 12
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WOW!
Thankyou DISCO MIKEY! You have saved me approx £1000, and taught me the inner detail of the EPB module... 
I have been driving round for weeks now, without a park brake. Very inconvenient at times, especially as my drive is on a slope! The garage said the module "would not reset and needed replacing" at a cost of £900.
I am not a mechanic, but I finished fixing my EPB module last night (with help from two brothers) and, yes, it was a bit of a challenge at points (especially as it had really wound itself tight against the end stop.) Your guide was spot-on right through.
If I may add a couple of remarks about the process, maybe Disco Mikey will comment whether they are advisable:
1. I removed the spare wheel and unbolted the bracket that holds the module from the rear members (two bolts) and this made it loads easier to undo the T20 lid fixings, and loads easier to see inside once the lid was off.
2. Getting the lid off is a bit tricky, but we managed to tap it off with a screwdriver working from behind the module (where the spare wheel sits) If you have removed the bracket bolts, put them back (finger tight) before doing this.
Thanks again Disco Mikey! I'm looking forward to telling the garage that I fixed it with no expenditure and no new parts!
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| 2nd Apr 2013 5:24 am |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20839
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I suspect I may have a slightly more comprehensive toolkit ( ), hence I did not see the need to remove the spare wheel or unbolt the module to access the screws.
The cover is well and truly glued on, and is very tight to get off. Just need to persevere and get it off without damaging it. And again, I have access to a ramp, which probably makes it easier to do from the front.
Regardless, it is done anyway, and saved a small fortune!
Now, all donations can be sent to Disco_Mikey@...  My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 2nd Apr 2013 6:02 am |
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littlewasp16
Member Since: 19 Sep 2011
Location: wales
Posts: 115
 
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I've got squealing brakes not quite as bad as the video , and the fuel consumption has suddenly gone up, what should I check first.
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| 2nd Apr 2013 9:28 am |
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littlewasp16
Member Since: 19 Sep 2011
Location: wales
Posts: 115
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Disco_Mikey wrote:Strip the back end down first and check
what should I look for the brakes or the parking brake ?
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| 2nd Apr 2013 12:14 pm |
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