RPAtotheStars
Member Since: 15 Sep 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 31
  
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Hello all
Well like many I set off today to unjam my EPB (D3 - 2009) and after 5 hours work on the drive I have succeeded....in removing 7 of the 8 screws!!
Number 8 is rounded off and I have tried all thing I can think of. Has anyone else got any ideas?
The last one is on the left hand corner so I tried to remove the cover on the opposite corner but it seems absolutely glued solid. The post say is is glued but I'm not sure how I can start to remove it. Any ideas how I can start to remove it?
So the only option I can think of is to remove the entire unit with all the cables, has anyone gone though that pain?
So any advice is welcome, I'm off for a drink and a quiet sulk in-fornt of the TV.
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 3rd Feb 2024 4:58 pm |
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RPAtotheStars
Member Since: 15 Sep 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 31
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Hello,
Well another 5 hours on the jammed EPB today and to my surprise it is all fixed.
Screw number 8 came away without and fight after all the tears it caused me last weekend and the lid came out ok too 
The unjamming went ok as I wasn't sure I had enough angle but a soak with penetrating fluid whilst I had a sulk and drank some tea seemed to do the trick. Upon my return with my dad's lump hammer and a wrecking bar it freed itself and the unwinding only took about 20 mins.
All relatched ok and the sweet sound of the EPB working was heard  .
So lid glued back on and new SS screws in and all is good, so many thanks Disco Mikey for this guide.
Only down side was when Took the car off the axle stands and notice more water in the passenger side and its been dry all day!! I did the sunroof drain repair two weeks ago and the external A pillar mod on Saturday. So perhaps it was all in the almost 2" thick wiring loom and it tracked along that when I had the rear of the car jacked up? Secret under floor water storage for the desert?
So I can now get it booked in for the MOT but first going to replace the front discs and pads so all brakes are new.
Thank you again.
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| 11th Feb 2024 5:43 pm |
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RPAtotheStars
Member Since: 15 Sep 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 31
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Bad news
Whilst doing the bedding in process at the weekend the EPB jammed again. I was only a few 100m from home but although the EPB had released one set of shoes had jammed on!. Drove back home and then dismantled the brakes again. Finally released the shoes and brakes cleaned and back on.
I had to dismantle the EPB module again to release the wire as it was tight and so not allowing the disc back on.
That all done now just need to get a hammer and release the brass part again!
On the positive side the new stainless steel screws I used on the EPB were very easy to remove and the sealant was very effective!
Hopefully will get it all sorted this weekend! I did try the IID tool to un jam it but nothing.
Has anyone else re-jammed the EPB whilst trying to do the bedding in?
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| 20th Mar 2024 2:01 pm |
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Bio
Member Since: 15 Feb 2024
Location: Seville
Posts: 12
 
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Hello everyone.
I am very grateful for what I have learned about the EPB system.
What I am not yet clear about is whether the EPB needs to be adjusted with an OBD machine, once the shoes on the brake drums have been adjusted.
I want to think not, but I'm not sure about it, and I think that the same cable tension when applying the epb switch, inside the epb box, the square white plug on the left side, where it connects to the epb control unit, detects the tension and disconnects the motor so that it does not continue to tension the cable when it blocks drums and on the contrary, when you disconnect the epb switch, the cable extends and that white token detects the maximum opening of the cables and stops the epb motor (brake unlocked).
In short, there is a maximum and minimum tension of the cables, mediated by the white tab on the left side, so that the epb motor
works just enough to "tighten and untighten the cables" and extend the life of the engine and preserve the plastic pinions it has and is not mediated by the general control unit but by the epb control unit through that white tab on the left that controls the opening and the epb motor.
What I have told you, is it so?
I'm sorry to tell so much in this way but in my opinion, understanding the basic operation of the epb, I think it would help more than one person, and first of all me, to be clearer about optimal assembly and adjustment of the epb.
Thank you very much for all the contributions.
Have a great week!! 
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| 9th Apr 2024 7:09 pm |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10365
 
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No you don’t need to use the OBD for adjustment. It just puts it in service mode, which I think gives you a bit more slack on the cables.
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| 9th Apr 2024 7:12 pm |
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Bio
Member Since: 15 Feb 2024
Location: Seville
Posts: 12
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Thanks Pete. If I understand the service mode, it relaxes the cables as much as possible.
But on the other hand, I have seen many videos and photos of epb and I see that the cables are also extended to the maximum without having service mode activated.
What I intended with the previous comment is to know if the white tab on the left controls the tension and tension of the cables and therefore, controls a maximum/minimum opening interval of those cables and of course, also controls the epb motor in an efficient way.
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| 9th Apr 2024 8:11 pm |
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RPAtotheStars
Member Since: 15 Sep 2023
Location: Dorset
Posts: 31
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HI,
My understanding is that you set up the tension on the shoes via the method in the Bodsys Brake Bible, this ensures the correct operation of the shoes and the force they apply to stop the car. The EPB then knows this tension, via the sensor in the unit and so can apply the correct force on the cables.
that might be a bit simplistic but just my understanding.
To answer your other question I agree I don't think you need the OBD tool.
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| 10th Apr 2024 8:43 am |
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Bio
Member Since: 15 Feb 2024
Location: Seville
Posts: 12
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thank you so much. cleared up!
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| 10th Apr 2024 1:13 pm |
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