santiD3
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Navarra
Posts: 261
  
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Thanks DT, now I get it.
Disco Trek, how can I remove cable from brass rod?
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 17th Apr 2013 7:55 pm |
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Disco Trek
Member Since: 01 Mar 2013
Location: Middle of the Country
Posts: 12
 
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I didn't remove any cables, so I can't help you - maybe Disco Mikey can advise. I just unwound the brass rod / spline from the threaded rod, enough to clip it back together. Why travel on tarmac when there's so many choices?
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| 17th Apr 2013 10:19 pm |
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santiD3
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Navarra
Posts: 261
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thanks Disco Trek,
Any help or idea Disco Mikey?
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| 20th Apr 2013 8:03 am |
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santiD3
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Navarra
Posts: 261
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thanks for your repaly DM.
The problem I have is to unjam the brass rod and the threaded rod.
Seeing your post, to do it manually I need a small lever or screwdriver (I dont have a diagnostic computer), turn it downwards If i understand right?
Once you've released it, To where I have to remove the threaded rod from the brass rod?
I've tried do slightly, but this very hard,...
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| 22nd Apr 2013 3:42 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20734
 
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You need a very large lever. I have a 48" one that has struggled to unjam a few modules...
You turn the brass part downwards to unjam, and keep turning downwards to unscrew the cables fully. Once wound all the way back, the cables will almost be in the same position as a brand new module  My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 22nd Apr 2013 6:31 pm |
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santiD3
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Navarra
Posts: 261
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Thanks Disco_M,
I will try.....
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| 24th Apr 2013 9:57 pm |
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shanetrotter
Member Since: 28 May 2009
Location: glasgow
Posts: 21
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Success at last  . Now have operational handbrake again. Thanks to all of you who's posts encouraged me to continue trying to unjam and rewind the epb mechanism. I managed to start the rod rotating by tapping it with a small chisel and hammer in the desired direction (downwards). I found that I could engage the chisel in one of the longitudinal slots in the brass rod and then tap gently with a hammer to start the rotation. After that I could "flick"the thing round using a small screwdriver as described in other posts above. It has to be wound well to the left before the two parts will relatch. I was beginning to despair that something was broken until the last gasp when light pressure was enough to click the parts together. I would be careful though when poking about at the lh side where the load cell or strain gauge device is to avoid snagging on and damaging the ribbon cable from it.
Thanks again to all for your posts that encouraged me to persevere. The pleasant weather in Glasgow this evening did help, however!!
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| 24th Apr 2013 10:32 pm |
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kengogrrr
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Scottish Borders
Posts: 17
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Hello all, have been on here numerous times over the years and am always amazed and delighted with (and basically in awe of) the knowledge and experteeze of the members and their willingness to share!
Haven't posted as felt rather inexperienced and possibly would sound just a moan lol!
Have a D3 HSE which i bought privately a few years ago with FSH. Love the big beast and drove accordingly, commuting to and from work mainly. However various niggles crept in, nothing too serrious although annoying, all of which were well known and mentioned on here.
Whites in Edinburgh did the big 105k sevice and seem a great bunch, always friendly and helpful, they really know their stuff (gave up quicly on Stealers, outrageous prices combined with complete lack of knowledge, or so it seemed!)
As funds became tight though I was fortunate an engineer mate did various repairs such as new discs and pads all round along with exchange rear calipers. Great care was given to the rear handbrake shoes etc ensuring they were always cleaned and adjusted.
The last major work was doing the front lower arms etc which caused problems by knocking out a front ride height sensor(?) that my friend couldn't diagnose.Around the same time the dreaded EPB squeel reappeared. (Oh and by this stage I had the LandRover optional indoor drivers side swimming pool............see what i mean about moaning?lol)
A house move and by now expired mot saw the beast moved to a local garage where it was agreed that it would be looked at when things werre quiet which suited me financially (sadly)
The garage were as good as their word, over several months both the displaced sunroof drainpipe was located and fixed, and the dipsy ride height was tracked to an out of kilter sensor and fixed.
However no amount of fiddling or cajoling the EPB unit can fix the handbrake (the handbrake shoes and kit were new) In the meantime I have kept an eye on fixes on here and have faint memories of someone possibly offering a rebuild/parts inside replacement of the plastic gears inside the actuator?
Also I have found a guy on Fleabay offering a repair service on the car at his premesis for £150 (apparently he is a LR tech of many years experience albeit he is London based).He is offering me a repair service by post telling me he will fix my unit and replaces one plastic part with a metal one hence curing the problem.He is prepared to do this by post however is still looking for £150 or as it now looks, £200!!
I have had the complete unit removed but am now wondering about the inrease in price I am being wise...............???
Can I ask (eventually I hear you all sigh, sorry!) has there been any developments on here by you technically gifted experts? Are there any rebuilds or replacement actuators available?
Having read things on here over the years I certainly would have faith and trust in anything offered by the brilliant D3 Yoda types on here such as Bodsey et al.....................especially anyone closer to home than London, lol! (I'm just South of Edinburgh, near Lauder Scottish Borders)
Sooooo (belatedly) HELP!!
Thanks again for all the brilliant tips and advice on here!
Cheers,Ken
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| 16th May 2013 7:14 pm |
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Disco Trek
Member Since: 01 Mar 2013
Location: Middle of the Country
Posts: 12
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Did you say you have the EPB module off the vehicle? Can you open it up and see if the inner workings are free to operate? If they are OK then what will you achive by sending it away for repair? I am struggling to imagine how the module could cause the squeak.
Did you see the module in operation: http://offroad.group-k.co/disco3epbmodule.MP4 This might help to figure out if your module is operating OK (once you have the lid off!)
Don't know if this helps at all... Why travel on tarmac when there's so many choices?
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| 16th May 2013 10:05 pm |
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kengogrrr
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Scottish Borders
Posts: 17
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Hi DT thanks for taking the time to read my rather wanderimg posting.
Yes the module has been removed from the vehicle as I believe along with the garage (who have the relevant software to try and get the unit to unwind itself etc) that it must either be overwound and jammed and or the plastic gears (as I understand them from being described on here ) are goosed.
The garage are unsure about opening the unit up so I am following the route of buying a new one, or, if possible having it repaired.
Same question as ace_brodie on here towards Disco_Mikey I guess
But loathe to make a bad situation worse by tampering with it myself!
May try Disco Mikey directly!
Thanks again,
Ken
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| 16th May 2013 10:51 pm |
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Disco Trek
Member Since: 01 Mar 2013
Location: Middle of the Country
Posts: 12
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No worries. I had similar thoughts about tampering with the lid, but I decided that whether I found it was unfixable, or left it alone, I'd need a new module either way. So I was no worse off for having a look. I guess I'm just too inquisitive 
It paid off for me, but it was a beggar to fix whilst still on the vehicle!
All the best! Why travel on tarmac when there's so many choices?
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| 16th May 2013 10:59 pm |
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kengogrrr
Member Since: 03 Sep 2009
Location: Scottish Borders
Posts: 17
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Hi there DT
sound thinking, I've just discovered the London guy is only replacing one plastic part with metal one and the cost has jumped fron £150 including labour at his London premises, to £200 even just for the repair by post!
Might be time for a laptop Disco_Mikey tutorial inspired fiddle in the workshop............
Nothing ventured nothing gained I guess?
Cheers
Ken
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| 16th May 2013 11:40 pm |
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Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20734
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kengogrrr wrote:Yes the module has been removed from the vehicle as I believe along with the garage (who have the relevant software to try and get the unit to unwind itself etc) that it must either be overwound and jammed and or the plastic gears (as I understand them from being described on here ) are goosed.
It depends how long the module has been screeching for. If it has only been a short time, then the gears should be fine. If it has been doing it for a while, the plastic gears may well be damaged.
This procedure is for when the unit is jammed, and cannot be un-jammed using the diagnostic equipment.
If the module is already off the car, if should be even easier to unjam it, as you have room to work
IF you have left it screeching too long though, it may well be a waste of time My D3 Build Thread
TDV8 Retrofit Build Thread
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| 17th May 2013 7:03 am |
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