Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 59
And one more question, is there any legal reason to have the Epb on an auto, with park? Just wondering if I can get it removed, work on fixing it myself and get refitted a week later.Disco 4 2012 HSE, Nara Bronze
Gone but not forgotten
2007 FreeL2 XS, Stornoway Grey
Unscrew the union nut and pull out the lock washer. I'm sure you've lubricated that area well.
18th Dec 2022 10:42 am
Rbillington
Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 59
Pete K wrote:
Better to break that, than cut a cable under the car.
You are a legend. That took a stupid amount of force, way beyond what I thought would break the cable.
Thank you
I can drive it to garage. And with hindsight I’d have avoided 14 hours stuck in a garden centre car park.Disco 4 2012 HSE, Nara Bronze
Gone but not forgotten
2007 FreeL2 XS, Stornoway Grey
18th Dec 2022 10:42 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
Yes its a legal requirment.
never rely on the park function of the gearbox, i have seen this fail before when a friends car rolled down the hill and smashed into a house.Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
18th Dec 2022 10:43 am
barnstormer
Member Since: 17 Feb 2012
Location: Hamburg
Posts: 5
Bedding procedure failed with jammed module
Hi everyone,
I hope the read isn't too long.
I have a question regarding the state of the EPB module of my D3 MY08, maybe someone could help or share a few pointers?
I have had my module screech a few times over the last two years, but it always came loose again and when I told my local independent garage in Hamburg, they always addressed the parking brake and it worked fine again for a few months.
The last time though, it was stuck for good and having more time than money at the moment (and having worked on restoring the car and learned how to service it myself), I tried to follow Disco_Mikey's procedure but ended up getting to the module from the spare wheel end after not being able to dislodge the spindle with the force I dared to apply. (In the process I found a brillant tool, REXBETI's extractor nuts, they bite themselves into old, rounded bolts as you apply torque and you can get seriously rusty bolts out without having to grind them off - and after having left them soaked in MoS2 or something similar to loosen the rust a bit!)
In the end I wound everything back to the suggested 5 times, relatched and checked everything, even checked the motor with a small 12V battery and it seemed fine. Parking brake pads and springs etc., discs and brake pads were also replaced as they all needed it soon anyway, I even got the bowden cables out of the base plate to check everything was fine and working easily enough (possibly preparing for replacing them), and put it all back together using Bodsy's bible. Thanks so much for the brilliant instructions.
After hopefully having done everything properly, and leaving the car with the battery disconnected last night because it wouldn't go into embedding mode, today I followed the bedding procedure instructions and all went well, the car stopped each time, the first two times the wheels seemed to block for an instant at the end, but it was wet. It got smoother and smoother each turn.
When the light didn't come off after 10 times I drove faster but it didn't go out. So I stopped and turned the ignition off but then I realised I had used the km/h dial (as I am so used to it). So I started again using the mp/h dial and the first time the car stopped with the EPB screeching but un winding itself again. The second time around the module jammed for good again with two error codes in the GAP tool:
C1104-68 - Brake bedding mode - Algorithm based failure - event information (EB)
( on 16-02-2023 16:41:00 at 311674 km )
C1A43-00 - Motor failure/electrical error H-bridge (EB)
( on 16-02-2023 16:41:00 at 311674 km )
After pulling the release cable (the winding rod with the hooked end of the factory-supplied jack works perfectly for this, btw.), I drove home, determined not to give up. During the last weeks and months of restoring the 15-year old beauty to her former glory, I have learned so much already that I simply want to get on top of this too. Also as I want to travel more with it, I just want to be able to solve certain things myself.
I am curious though as to why the module would perform perfectly when the brake force didn't have to be so big (at the lower km/h speed: 23km/h ~ 15mph) but jammed immediately when having to break from the higher speeds.
Has anyone had this, or an inkling as to what might be the reason, how to proceed?
Thanks everyone.
16th Feb 2023 5:53 pm
steel_nick
Member Since: 26 Jan 2018
Location: Burgas
Posts: 17
EPB down... again
I am baaack! With the same problem ...
The difference is that now I am aware of the release wire, but still not able to pull it
The wire has been "repaired" from someone before me by connecting it with a electrical wire clamp around the rear differential, making it impossible to pull from the front seat.
Anyway I managed to push the wire trough the rear left wheel, but unfortunately it does not release the EPB. Is there something that I can do to release the EPB or to consider it stuck?
Thanks in advance!If U are not on the edge, U are takin too much space.
20th Feb 2023 8:07 am
Rbillington
Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 59
I know it doesn’t help much, but the force I had to use to release my brakes I would want a repaired cable.
Can you pull it from the join, with some mole grips or something?Disco 4 2012 HSE, Nara Bronze
Gone but not forgotten
2007 FreeL2 XS, Stornoway Grey
20th Feb 2023 8:31 am
steel_nick
Member Since: 26 Jan 2018
Location: Burgas
Posts: 17
I tried and the wire tore from the join. I pulled with both hands ... how much torque does this wire need? If U are not on the edge, U are takin too much space.
20th Feb 2023 8:38 am
Rbillington
Member Since: 25 Sep 2021
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 59
I couldn’t pull it with the plastic pull tool.
Mine took a screw driver through the loop, 2 hands and one hell of a pull. I was considering cutting the cables to the drums as the release cable wouldn’t release. Someone suggested pulling the cable until it felt like it’d snap (as I had nothing to lose) And it did feel like it would.
Can you create and clamp a loop in the remaining wire, either a double figure 8, or a proper wire clamp.Disco 4 2012 HSE, Nara Bronze
Gone but not forgotten
2007 FreeL2 XS, Stornoway Grey
20th Feb 2023 8:56 am
steel_nick
Member Since: 26 Jan 2018
Location: Burgas
Posts: 17
WoW, Okay! I will give it a try! Now, I am considering to use modificated wood clamps ...
Thanks, will write back what happened If U are not on the edge, U are takin too much space.
20th Feb 2023 9:10 am
CIO
Member Since: 06 Mar 2018
Location: Bahrain
Posts: 109
10 years on, and this thread has saved me money! Thanks, Mike!
Applying the parking brake whilst in low range caused the dreaded fault. My bad for never adjusting the parking brake in more than two years and hundreds of miles of off-roading since I've had the car.
I tried unjamming via the IIDTool repeatedly, which made a loud screeching noise.
The emergency release was easy - luckily, it didn't take much force.
I changed the park brake shoes, the disks, and the pads then tackled the module.
Getting the front off the module was hard work. Really, really very hard work.
Turning the brass rod was impossible. I tried hitting it. I tried needle nose pliers. I tried bargaining with it. I tried letting the wife have a go (smaller hands). I tried levering it. I tried swearing at it. It didn't seem to move at all. I spent a day and a half on this and eventually gave up. I started calling garages for quotes.
Defeated, bruised and scratched to pieces, I put the wheels back on and went to move the car, so I could get one of the stuck wheel chocks out from under the front driver-side wheel, and after moving the car, I reached down out of force of habit to apply the brake. It only went and "worked"! of course, it didn't apply as the cable was no longer latched (remember - I'd pulled the release cable), but it didn't screech. I heard the mechanism working as the cover was still removed and I had the window down. I ran the latching function on the IIDTool several times until that was successful. Restarted the car, and hey-presto, it was working - no more errors on the dash and a brake that applied successfully.
I didn't need to take the wheel off to get the front of the module back in position. There was ample room through the right-hand side wheel arch, with the car lifted high enough that the wheel was off the ground.
Did the bedding in procedure this morning. Part of me is still scared to apply it whilst in low range though.
Anyway, Mike, if you still use the forum and read this. Thanks again, buddy. I owe you a bottle of something nice.Chris
--
2016 D4 Landmark in the UK. 2014 LR4 SE in Bahrain.
20th Feb 2023 8:43 pm
Shealesy
Member Since: 09 May 2021
Location: Caithness
Posts: 233
Hi all, invaluable thread this, for what I feel might now be inevitable but I’m going to hedge my bets and ask first. (There’s a tldr at the end to avoid my ramblings)
MOT is up in a couple of weeks, the EPB hasn’t worked since about a year minus 2 weeks ago… This is entirely on me not reassembling it properly while replacing a wheel bearing last year for said MOT, but it wasn’t part of the retest so clean sheet
Turns out, I hadn’t hooked the cable from the EPB to the lever behind the shoe (passenger side here). Today I’ve taken at repairing this all ready for the test.
First up was the switch that had had a coffee several months ago, fixed, activate, whirr, no squeals! Brilliant!
Eased off the clutch and felt it pulling up on one side. The drivers side was holding perfect, so have set about rebuilding the passenger side. Turns out, no EPB effort at all because I’d missed the cable off of said lever when reassembling after last MOT.
Mounting position, disc off, shoes out, clean, grease, and attempt to refit (with cable connected ) and I can’t for the life of me get the shoes back in straight and square/round. It feels like the cable hasn’t come out far enough from the EPB and doesn’t have the slack to let me get it all back in place.
The top “pivot points” of the shoes, either side of the spreader plate with the odd flat spring, don’t meet that big block that’s part of the knuckle/backplate/hub assembly. There’s a 5-8mm gap on the other if I can even get one to meet. Can post pictures if it helps, I’m going to persist for another couple of hours until it’s dark/raining so I’ll be out there kneeling on gravel if anyone wants to see.
Could this be represent of something coming unhooked in the EPB module, not pushing the cable out far enough in mounting mode? I’m hoping not and somebody will just tell me to try harder. I am following the brake bible too, as always.
Tl;dr: Can the passenger side cable become disconnected in the module, and not bother the drivers side mechanism?
Edit: scrap that. Looks like I’m in for new cables. These have been mangled before. Hopefully I can get this past the MOT…
Edit2: I’ve got it functioning and holding well, and releasing. That wheel does seem to rock just a little when I put the bar across though, like the shoes have bitten the disc but it’s rocking against the springs.D4 XS Commercial - MY16 - Corris Grey
D3 HSE - MY05 - Java black - Retired
Vauxhall Insignia Country Tourer - PX’d, in a poorly way
GAP IIDBT G3
2x Colliewobbles and a Kelpie
25th Feb 2023 3:37 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 805
wheel should move a little when the handbrake is on think it may be called reserve
did you close the ratchet on the shoe with the allen bolt on it ?please excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
25th Feb 2023 5:19 pm
Shealesy
Member Since: 09 May 2021
Location: Caithness
Posts: 233
Yup, half a turn out, rubber mallet all around then tight again. Tight as I can with the short side of a long Allen key.
The other wheel doesn’t move at all. Just hope it’s not going to suddenly settle in and bind up There are no slow roads around here, so if it happens, it’s going to happen at 60mph.D4 XS Commercial - MY16 - Corris Grey
D3 HSE - MY05 - Java black - Retired
Vauxhall Insignia Country Tourer - PX’d, in a poorly way
GAP IIDBT G3
2x Colliewobbles and a Kelpie
25th Feb 2023 6:48 pm
eightfoot
Member Since: 12 Apr 2015
Location: sunny essex
Posts: 805
i dont use a rubber mallet i just loosen without tapping the disc,you run the risk of loosening any rust inside the disc that then becomes jammed somewhere
ps i would say the wheel that does not move needs checking as they should both have a small amount of reserve on them both my d3 and d4 move on both sidesplease excuse any grammer/punctuation mistakes,i'm thick,thankyou
current vehicles 2005 d3 2013 d4
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) and I can’t for the life of me get the shoes back in straight and square/round. It feels like the cable hasn’t come out far enough from the EPB and doesn’t have the slack to let me get it all back in place.
i dont use a rubber mallet i just loosen without tapping the disc,you run the risk of loosening any rust inside the disc that then becomes jammed somewhere 
