Member Since: 20 Sep 2010
Location: Israel
Posts: 160
Does anyone know if the EPB fix can be done if you have :
1. an electronic rear differential (assume it is that because of the orange padlock light on rock crawl)
2. An LPG tank in the spare wheel well
1st Jul 2019 8:27 am
chrisbarr35
Member Since: 21 Mar 2013
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 18
A big thanks to Mikey for posting this guide, my EPB started screeching after the lug snapped off the end of the left brake cable. I had to fit a new cable and then un jam the EPB, I was tempted to just take it to a garage rather than trying to do the job using axel stands but I expected to be told a new EPB would be needed - after reading the other posts I decided to just crack on. Glad I did - only £100 lighter for a cable and new shoes (thought I may as well swap those while at it!). It was a bit awkward getting the cover off the EPB and undoing the ceased cable bolts but not as bad as I expected.
Chris
2nd Sep 2019 4:31 pm
Chrischris
Member Since: 25 Sep 2019
Location: Durham
Posts: 3
How are you guys winding that bronze colour rod back so I can connect cables? Says in guide to use a screw driver but don't see how I can do it
3rd Oct 2019 10:24 pm
Dal-z
Member Since: 17 Oct 2019
Location: Rogaland
Posts: 3
Thanks for all the tips in this thread. I have today managed to get the cover off the EPB and unjam and rewind the bronze nut. Fantastic! I would never have managed without this thread.
Thanks from Norway!
I used this tool to rewind the bronze nut:
17th Oct 2019 9:21 pm
Patlin
Member Since: 01 Oct 2019
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 3
Tic tic when re-latching
Probably the best thread on internet, a least for us in the EPB-issue-club. Big up for all people contributing!
My issue -
Pulled emergency cable and done all the work incl manual unjam + reconnect wires inside the EPB-module + change of shoes etc.
However I'm getting the tic-tic sound when the system tries to re-latch. Just goes to end of travel, and stays there. Seams like the system doesn't understand that the cables are connected and can't figure out why. Looks like some other have had this issue but not really the solution how to make it work again.
An other thing I figured out that hasn't really been covered in the thread. Inside the module is also an accelerator sensor. If the module is not refitted correctly it will render a incorrect fuel-reading (and possibly more). I left mine "flipped" while test driving, and the fuel when to zero in just i couple of miles. Once restarted it popped back. Just by flipping the module right again it was fine. Really annoying before I figured this out
25th Oct 2019 10:05 am
DiscoSwede
Member Since: 08 Jan 2017
Location: Vänersborg
Posts: 5
Two guys with the same problem as me (as posted on on 23rd Oct 2018 ) have PM'd and asked for details, so I will try do describe the root cause and solution of my problem here.
My problem was that the square nut (in the red circle below) was stuck in the end of the plastic housing. It needs to run freely, like in youtube video here .
After loosening the wire inlet / big round end cap (in green circle) a bit, the nut could be popped into the right position.
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Hope this helps.
26th Oct 2019 5:03 pm
nigel.morgan89
Member Since: 05 Nov 2019
Location: Cheddar
Posts: 5
EPB Jammed
Thanks for the great notes on resetting EPB on D3. Unfortunately, mine is properly jammed after screeching once. The near side rear wheel brake is solid, far side can move, meaning setup has drifted I guess. I cannot budge it with manual reset cable, even when I access direct at the entry point to EPB module - and I’m a big strong lad, may pull module off its mounts if I pull harder! I have opened up the EPBM and shaft is thrown fully to the right (NS end). I can’t back off the drive with cable connected, as I guess it’s carrying cable load, so seems only option is to get in and cut the NS cable in the EPB module. I have tried to get the disc off and that won’t budge either. Any better ideas than cutting cable? Any other way to disconnect cables? Seems really doomsday kind of thing to have to do cutting a cable, but whole things seems locked up. Thanks!
5th Nov 2019 3:48 pm
DiscoSwede
Member Since: 08 Jan 2017
Location: Vänersborg
Posts: 5
Before you decide cutting the cable, I would recommend to pull even harder in the release cable. When I had to pull mine, I really thought I was going to break something. I had to use a ½" extension bar to get the right grip. Pulled until i could taste blood in my mouth, and finally it got released.
5th Nov 2019 6:10 pm
nigel.morgan89
Member Since: 05 Nov 2019
Location: Cheddar
Posts: 5
OK thanks Disco Swede. I’ll try again tomorrow and wait til my gums bleed then stop
5th Nov 2019 7:32 pm
DIY Ace
Member Since: 06 Feb 2019
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 971
DiscoSwede wrote:
Before you decide cutting the cable, I would recommend to pull even harder in the release cable. When I had to pull mine, I really thought I was going to break something. I had to use a ½" extension bar to get the right grip. Pulled until i could taste blood in my mouth, and finally it got released.
Ditto. I really thought it was going to snap when I had to pull mine.2022 BMW i4 M50. Bought Oct 2022. 10,200 miles and counting...
2014 BMW 435d convertible. Bought July 2021. 58,000 miles and counting...
2005 Discovery 3 HSE Auto. Bought Feb 2019. 169,000 miles and counting...
2009 Freelander 2 XS Manual. Bought Sep 2013. SOLD Aug 2021 (already regretted!)
Member Since: 26 Jan 2018
Location: Burgas
Posts: 17
Hey Guys,
wast week I got the beautifull sound from hell, stopping my rear axle from going anywhere.
Thanks to this forum and Disco_Mikey I got it sorted out!
I was trying to release the apb with the release hook, but couldn't, even after one of my strongest friends came along... afterwards I saw that it has been damaged and repaired by connection with wire clamp may be in a licensed service.
I couldn't make anything from the front of the car, just got the 8 screws undone, so I got it from the spare tire. Thanks to the videos I watched I realized that this is not an hour job so I didn't hurry. If you spray the 4 bolts and wait, that are holding plate on which the epb is placed, You would make your life easie.
To proceed, You should release the parking brake, otherwise the epb will be literally stuck and almost no moving will be possible.
I couldn't rotate the brass part, so decided to undone the 3 screws holding the motor and the plastic gearbox, using T15 (I think), be very carfull with the small swabs (one fell in the rear axle, thanks God for magnets , if this happens to you, on the bottom of the axle there is a hole that You can enter with a magnet tool), You can unclamp the motor and the release wire (pay attention to how it is attached to the machanism and where the lead ball is) and your job will be much easier. When I was ready I used 12 volt battery to move the brass part to help me lock the release brake again.
Here are a couple of pics from my experience
If U are not on the edge, U are takin too much space.
5th Dec 2019 7:40 am
xchrisrx31
Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: congleton
Posts: 10
Hi I just read this thread after fixing the EPB. I’ve not started it up yet waiting on new discs to come in the morning.
My question is. I did everything in the pictures apart from putting the two latched parts back together. Is my understanding correct the car should reset it self still. As if the manual release was pressed.
Or do I need to open it back up to latch it togther
22nd Dec 2019 4:43 pm
Dutch389
Member Since: 19 Jan 2020
Location: France
Posts: 1
EPB
Hi, I followed your instructions for resetting the EPB. the brass sleeve was all the way over to the Right but the white section, on the Left was not detached. I am getting screeching. the warning light was yellow but now its Red and blinking. Fuse removed. Is this a remove and rebuild issue?
19th Jan 2020 8:24 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Hi dutch389
That sounds to me like you have either a broken handbrake cable or one or both have come off the brake shoes allowing the small white block to travel all the way to the end. I’d check this first by undoing the large round knurled nuts on outside of epb unit you should be able to see If either cable is broken.
Good luck it’s a bit of a mission to get at unit but doable.
Tom
2nd Mar 2020 8:13 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Had the dreaded noise of doom from epb a couple of weeks ago & brakes locked on, used the emergency release to get it mobile again. I unjammed it manually thanks to discomikeys great guide, its a bit of a mission without having the car up on a ramp, we tried to unjam with diagnostic tool but it would not have it, once we got it unjamed we tried to use diagnostics to relatch but it would not do it, every time it came up against small white block it just moved & would not relatch, wound it all the way back by hand & relatched that way, on Monday I replaced all the shoes & cleaned & copper greased all up with help from Bodsys great brake bible, still to do the bedding in process but been working all week so that is for the weekend.
I’ve decided the the next house I buy will have a four post ramp in the garage or a pit, I wish! so do not have to crawl around on the floor to do these sort of jobs.
Just thought I would mention that I stripped one side at a time, shoes on drivers side were gold coloured on painted bits but passenger side were black painted so someone before I had car had committed the ultimate sin of mixing shoes on an axle, that is the problem you never know what you will find, out of sight out of mind.
Tom
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may be in a licensed service.
, if this happens to you, on the bottom of the axle there is a hole that You can enter with a magnet tool), You can unclamp the motor and the release wire (pay attention to how it is attached to the machanism and where the lead ball is) and your job will be much easier. When I was ready I used 12 volt battery to move the brass part to help me lock the release brake again.
