Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Just tried to rebed my epb brakes this afternoon without success, brake pedal down three times & then held down, pulled up epb switch 4 times & got squeal from back then message park brake fault not functioning or something similar, has anyone else had this happen?, it sounds to me like it has come unlatched again, I thought I had got it relatched when I had it apart after first time, if you manually relatch it how can you tell if it’s properly relatched ?. Got to spend a few hours underneath again relatching it, I think I will leave cover off till I have beded brakes in, once it works I will close it all up.
Tom
7th Mar 2020 6:24 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Disco mikey,
any chance of some advice, I have unjamed the brass rod in epb & wound it all the way back to the white block, but when I wind the brass rod away from the white block it leaves the white block behind & does not go with it. Maybe I’m being stupid but where are the 2 cables to be relatched, I can see one which has a sort of stepped part on the end just in front of white block, but I cannot see any other cables.
Tom
9th Mar 2020 1:03 pm
gearmuncher
Member Since: 30 Oct 2018
Location: Woodley
Posts: 143
post pics
9th Mar 2020 5:14 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
All the pictures on disco mikeys how to repair are exactly as mine looks, that’s what has me a bit stumped as per relatching the cables.
When you pull the emergency release how exactly does it unlatch the cable/cables, the emergency release cable comes into the epb on the passenger side then vanishes inside the unit & I cannot for the life of me work out how it works. I’m wondering if the release cable has not fully retracted & this is what is stopping it relatching.
Tom
10th Mar 2020 7:41 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
I have spent the last few days looking online to find out how the epb actually works, I was looking at discoswedes post showing how epb works on you tube & came across a video of someone stripping a unit down into its component parts, this was an eye opener for me as they removed the motor with the brass rod & the load sensor (white block) under the load sensor is the steel block it’s attached to, on the end of the brass rod is a casting attached to this casting is a spring loaded latch this works the emergency release as it latches to the bottom of the steel block below the load sensor & also drops a pall into the rod that comes out of the load sensor.
Having seen how all the parts latch together then had an idea why mine would not relatch, got back underneath this afternoon & wound the brass rod away from the white block so that I could have a better look, tried to press the release latch back down but it would not move, went back to the emergency release cable inside the car, popped out the cover plate & pulled the release cable out then pulled on the cable, when I let go of it I could see that when I had pulled it to release brakes it had cut a slot into the plastic of the console( not really that visible) but the cable was trapped in this slot by the loop fixing block on it, I pushed it out of this slot & it moved back about 15mm, got back underneath & wound the brass rod all the way back towards the white load sensor, the last turn I could get on the brass rod there was an audible click, I wound the brass rod a bit in the other direction & load sensor moved with it, then it was moment of truth got in turned on ignition & with door open so I could hear pulled up the handbrake switch, motor whirred & flashing red light was replaced with solid red light, pushed switch to release & red light disappeared, no screeching I’m so releaved just have to run bed in process & hopefully that should be brakes done for now.
Apologies this thread is so long but hope it may help someone who has had issue with relatching, just to let you know the Ford S max & Renault grand scenic use exactly the same unit for epb, only difference is that their units have their names moulded in & fixings to vehicle are different.
Tom
13th Mar 2020 7:17 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Hi members of epb failure club,
Took car out this morning & ran park brake bedding process, everything went ok, just got a bit confused as the park brake light was flashing but this must be when your in rebed process, all ok then on last couple had a bit of a squeal when actually coming to a stop, I think this must have been everything getting a bit warm ( I did drive a good distance between each cycle) after 10 time’s just drove above 30mph & flashing park brake light went out. Applied brake & pulled away & brakes came off with no dramas.
I mentioned in last post about emergency release cable cutting into console plastic, I took a picture which is below (too dark last night)
If you look beyond the red wiring connector you will see the plastic edge a bit chewed up & one area actually has a slot cut into it by release cable & this was where the cable was jammed. Look just above & behind & you can see the release cable now back where it needs to be to allow epb to relatch.
Hope this helps.
Tom
14th Mar 2020 4:30 pm
Defender1009
Member Since: 05 Apr 2020
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 5
I’ve read this thread two or three times and finally attempted the repair yesterday. Began by adjusting the brakes.....the drivers side (US-spec) was adjusted perfectly, but the passenger side was adjusted all the way out.
No problem getting torx screws out and cover off, but once opened, my problem is the exact opposite of this thread. The brass rod was wound all the way in, instead of out. All of the brass rod was to the left of the motor, and the left and right sides did appear to be attached. I attempted to wind the rod in the opposite direction, in case it was jammed, and had a little success, but it never spun completely freely.
If I try the unjam procedure with the Gap tool, it says it completes successfully. If I try to apply the brake, it makes noise for a while (just hums, no loud noises), but nothing is happening. I fear it’s a case of severely stripped gears, but are there any other ideas before I set to removing this box today? Thanks!
5th Apr 2020 12:41 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20834
Remove the shoes and check the cables are still complete
If they have broken off, it gives the exact symptom you describe My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 05 Apr 2020
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 5
Thank you sir, will check that today!
5th Apr 2020 12:46 pm
Defender1009
Member Since: 05 Apr 2020
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 5
Disco_Mikey wrote:
Remove the shoes and check the cables are still complete
If they have broken off, it gives the exact symptom you describe
Unfortunately that wasn’t it. Disassembled both sides, cleaned and adjusted. They’re just fine, and all cables were in place and intact. Here is a pic of the box as it sits. The brass piece will not spin at all, it just produces a humming noise when I try to engage the brake, but no movement from any internals.
The code is C1A43-00 motor failure/electrical error H-bridge. If it helps, it also lists the position as “unknown” in the tool on the mount/latch screen.
5th Apr 2020 10:37 pm
Defender1009
Member Since: 05 Apr 2020
Location: Nashville, TN
Posts: 5
Any other thoughts on a fix for this that would preclude removing the unit? I've left the cover off all week as I addressed some air suspension issues, but I'm at the point where I need to either fix it or pronounce the patient dead and replace it. I have disassembled, cleaned, and lubed both sides of the parking brake drums---they're fine.
Some updates to my last post as I've worked with it....I can wind it in either direction--there's some resistance when I do, but both ends of the unit work and pull the cables inward when winding. When I have someone pull the brake switch upwards while I'm under the car, nothing happens but some humming, but if I try to assist it with a screwdriver, it will turn easier...Oddly enough, it's turning in the loosening direction when the switch is pulled to apply the brake.
The error code is the same as before--C1A43-00 motor failure/electrical error H-bridge. I'm at the point where I'm suspecting either a failing/weak motor, or stripped gears, although there's none of the noise that would usually be typical of gears trying to catch and failing.
11th Apr 2020 6:41 pm
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
EPB squealing again
I thought I had this issue fixed at beginning of March, how wrong I was, went out yesterday stopped to let the wife out of car pulled handbrake without taking it out of drive, let my foot of brake & car crept forward followed by the dreaded squeal, could not stop it by pushing off, it stopped & brakes were not locked on, drove home & parked in road outside house, brake squealed again when I applied brake. Went out today to turn off park brake but it would not turn off & again got dreaded squeal, this time brakes were locked on & only way to release was with emergency release cable. I guess this means another few days of crawling around underneath to unjam the b dy unit again.
This happened in exactly the same way as the first time i.e applied park brake released footbrake car moved forward slightly followed by the squealing, then when parked up the later the brakes lock on completely.
Does anyone know if this locking of unit is caused by park brake shoes grabbing the drum as the car moves forward & overloading the load sensor causing it to spin the rod fully to the right inside epb unit?
Just to say after I got it unjammed last time I replaced the shoes & ran the bedding in process which went ok & for the last 6 weeks it has been fine, so I’m at a bit of a loss as to why it should suddenly fail again.
Could it be that shoes have gone out of adjustment after bedding in process was completed?
Anyone with any ideas why it would be much appreciated.
Tom
26th Apr 2020 10:42 pm
samg7512
Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12
Hi, just wondering if anyone could help? Basically this weekend I took on the task of replacing my handbrake cables on my 2010 rr sport, I had to replace the cables as one of the shoes got stuck on (didn’t know this at the time) so I had no option due to where I was stuck at the time with now tools but to cut the cables, NOW.. I have stripped it all, replaced the plastic gears on the inside of the actuator, fitted new cables, new shoes,1x new calliper, new disks and pads all round, re attached the cables together on the white block, I’m 100% sure it’s rebuilt right on the inside of the actuator, I put it all back together following the brake bible (perfect guide).. now I’m having the red flashing light and it’s saying “handbrake off lift switch to apply” I lift the switch the motor spins followed by a few little clicks then nothing, if I hold it it says “handbrake fault” Does anyone have any idea how to get it working or even knock the light off (if I pull fuse it takes away my fuel sensor) If someone can give me an easy fix I’d be more than happy to make a donation for your weekend beer money also I tried to do the brake bedding in procedure but the car doesn’t do anything when I do it? Like doesn’t show that it’s in heeding in mode etc? Any help would be greatly appreciated,
27th Jul 2020 9:32 am
miniman8
Member Since: 22 May 2017
Location: Wantage
Posts: 97
Hi samg7512
It sounds to me despite your best efforts the cables are not relatched inside the epb module, when you rebuilt it , was the grey block in front of white block ( closest to the motor) Right back against the white block if not then the small pawl underneath will not engage, this could account for the noise you heard when you pulled the park brake switch, you should get a normal motor noise then slowing down to stop when the brakes should be on. I think from what you describe it may have come unlatched inside epb module, do you have or know some one with an obdi code reader & resetter, if you do you could get them to try to relatch the epb module that way, if not I’m afraid you may need to climb underneath & manually wind it back, believe me that is a son of a job, I know I’ve done it 3 times in last 6 months due to various problems with handbrake.
You will not be able to start brake bedding process until you get brake fault light off, smart these cars, knows it has a problem so won’t let you do it
Best of luck hope this helps.
Tom
Just an observation are you a recent new owner of a Discovery? you should not need to cut handbrake cables to release shoes, I may be stating the obvious (sorry if you tried this) but using the end of the jack handle & the screwdriver in the tool kit, locate the emergency release ( drivers side of gear lever under small plastic trim) its a Bowden cable with a loop at the end, put loop of jack handle & pull, you will need to pull really hard, believe me you think something will break but that will release the brake shoes 99 times out of 100.
27th Jul 2020 5:08 pm
samg7512
Member Since: 27 Jul 2020
Location: Stoke on Trent
Posts: 12
So.. after more shouting and swearing I figured out that knows how but the handbrake inside the actuator has come detached from both sides, the white block will click back on but won’t stay? And the threaded bar is just floating around now, no idea at all how it’s come off but going to get the whole thing out again, any idea why the white box has detected its self and won’t reatatch? When I rebuild for the second time, Should the black threaded bar be all the way into the bronze one or not? Like how far in should it be?
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dy unit again.
If someone can give me an easy fix I’d be more than happy to make a donation for your weekend beer money 
also I tried to do the brake bedding in procedure but the car doesn’t do anything when I do it? Like doesn’t show that it’s in heeding in mode etc? Any help would be greatly appreciated, 
